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How can I use the factory Oil Pressure sender with an Autometer gauge?

M

M66Stang

Member
Guys,

I am installing a complete set of Autometer gauges in the '66 and am just about ready to start the engine up, but yesterday I tried to remove the original factory oil pressure sender from the engine and had no luck. I think I would shear the sender apart before the threads break loose from the extension piece coming out of the block. I couldn't even budge the extension piece from the block either. Both have been on the engine for over 40 years so I'm leary of trying too hard and have something break causing me serious greif. So I ask, what can I do to use the factory sender with an Autometer gauge? There has got to be a way.

Thanks,
Mark
 
if the sender wont come out, have you tried turning the oil pressure arm?
9B339A-B.jpg
if it will budge, just break the sender off, and replace the arm. Or once removed (not sure at the moment if it will spin with the sender on it due to interference) you can carefully remove the sender on your work bench.
 
You may need to remove the oil filter and move the power steering (if you have it) out of the way to turn the extension with the sender unit on it.
 
Yes, I tried the to remove extension arm with the sender on it too. It won't budge either. I can see the extension arm starting to twist as I try to loosen it. This is why I wanted to see of I can use them with the new gauge because I am worried something is going to break off and cause metal pieces to drop into the engine. Thanks.
 
is your new gauge mechanical? If so, you need to get that sender off. Its a fine thread, it shouldn't be too difficult. Maybe some heat would help loosen it up? Have you tried a penetrating oil? But not together :craz It should come out, my motor looked like this:

before.jpg


And i didn't break any threads (except for a motor mount bolt) during disassembly. Hope that helps.
 
I've tried penetrating oil, but not heat. I might see if that does anything. I also been lucky getting everything off of the engine I have needed to till now.

I am also researching an oil filter sandwich adapter that has 1/8" NPT ports in it specifically for adding pressure senders or oil temperature senders.

Thanks
 
The PO of mine used a piece of brass tube for the ext. It broke after about 4000 miles at cruising speed. The stub was broke even with the block. I got an easy out and removed the piece, turned the engine over a bit to flush the area, and put in a temp. fix. Then I went to a salvage and got the correct adapter and all was fine. That area is pretty easy to flush out if you need to.
 
Don't force it ... get a bigger hammer.

You absolutely cannot use the stock sender with the Autometer gauges. If you break it, you break it. It's got to come out, though, so quit being a whimp and attack it!
 
I saturated it with more penetrating oil and am going to let it soak in for a few days. I'll wrestle it out over the weekend.
 
"johnpro" said:
You absolutely cannot use the stock sender with the Autometer gauges.
Click to expand...

I have considered in the past building an electronic adapting module where you set the OHM range for the existing sending unit, and set the OHM Range that the gauge is expecting, and using a little bit of Logic, the module would translate. I was mostly considering this for fuel gauges, because I know there's always the headache of getting the right sending unit for the right gauge (or vice versa) and often times people have to install aftermarket sending units into their stock tanks, and that's a headache, but it would work for any resistance-to-ground sending unit.

My main problem was: I don't know enough about electronics to do this right.
 
Before you try again, get the torches out. Dont be afraid to get it HOT. Torches will be your best friend!
"AtlantaSteve" said:
I have considered in the past building an electronic adapting module where you set the OHM range for the existing sending unit, and set the OHM Range that the gauge is expecting, and using a little bit of Logic, the module would translate. I was mostly considering this for fuel gauges, because I know there's always the headache of getting the right sending unit for the right gauge (or vice versa) and often times people have to install aftermarket sending units into their stock tanks, and that's a headache, but it would work for any resistance-to-ground sending unit.

My main problem was: I don't know enough about electronics to do this right.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you know too much... Lost me in the first sentence :ep
 
"buening" said:
Aren't these extensions aluminum? Something to think about when using too much heat :scar
Click to expand...

Original extensions were steel, but many of the repro's are aluminum.
 
Mine is definitely steel. I probably would have sheared it off already if it was aluminum. I'll try some heat too. Thanks all!
 
Gotcha. The one that was on my original Mach was aluminum. It wasn't painted nor was it rusty, and it was pretty soft stuff. It could have been replaced though, who knows. I went the brass pipe route without any issues, but the above about one breaking concerns me. I'll keep an eye on it for sure.
 
I feel the reason mine broke was a poor choice of material plus a heavy cam in the engine. The engine lopes real good and with the weight of the sending unit on the brass, it caused a failure. I have had a stock aluminum now for 6000 miles with no problems.
 
Well, I left the factory sender in place. I used a oil filter adapter that fits between the filter and the block. It has (3) 1/8" NPT ports in it and I used an 18" grease gun flexible extension lead to connect the sender to the adapter.The extension is rated at 4500 psi so I thought that was enough factor of safety over the 50 psi the oil pump puts out. It worked great.
 
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