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How is everyone finishing the underneath of their car?

"mustangstofear" said:
I poke 4 holes in the tops of all my paint cans, this way it drains back in the can. Then I take a paper towel and wipe the rim completely clean. If you don't clean the rim you WILL destroy the lid and the can trying to get it off. Now if your just using any primer or some miracle epoxy primer the lid will come right off.

Holes in the lid, or in the groove where the lid covers?
 
Man I think I am really overthinking this. My original thought was to go with POR15 on the existing parts that have light surface rust, hit the E-coat parts with an 8- grit DA, then topcoat everything with something else. Started thinking hey, SPI epoxy primer in satin would be nice and tough... then I read where never to use it over any rust converters. Then I read about a lot of products having adhesion issues over the POR15. I guess the black rustoleum would be OK, but I was hoping for something a little tougher. I think it's the mix of surface rusted parts and new e-coated parts that has me confused on one product thats compatable for both surfaces. Looked at Eastwood chassis black, it looks like it comes in a regular and a 2k product, thought that might be a good in-between compromise. I'm getting a headache, I think I am agonizing way too much over the underneath of the car. I'm just looking for a proven combination for a durable, decent looking undercarriage
 
I would rethink the POR 15 idea. I've used it on things like axle housings and dust shields with good results but had some issues with it on sheet metal as far as sticking. It will peel on e coat or any metal that is smooth. It really needs a rough or rusty surface to bite too. Top coating can be a problem also. The Eastwood Extreme Chassis black works very well and is pretty tough. I used that on everything I wanted a smooth surface on and I used a rubberized undercoating on the rest for a durable finish.
 
If you don't properly prep any surface regardless of what you want to top coat with you will have problems. SPI or any other epoxy or direct to metal primers will peel also if you are trying to put it over a slick finish. When I use the KBS I never put it over rust, my metal is new and have been using it for the last 16 years.
 
"garner67" said:
+1

I used all black Zero Rust... brushed on.

I had never heard of the Zero Rust product till you 2 guys posted about it... looking into it, it looks like it'll work for both my new and old metal under there... thanks very much for the info, I think my dilemma is resolved, gonna order some today.
 
"mustangstofear" said:
If you don't properly prep any surface regardless of what you want to top coat with you will have problems. SPI or any other epoxy or direct to metal primers will peel also if you are trying to put it over a slick finish. When I use the KBS I never put it over rust, my metal is new and have been using it for the last 16 years.

yeah I do understand that prep is key to good finish, but without media blasting I was afraid i could not get 100% of the surface rust off the old parts. plan is to clean/degrease, wire cup on grinder to get as much rust off old parts as possible, hit the worst parts with 60 grit DA then 80 grit DA over everything old and new, clean it off before topcoating. I sandblasted the rear end since it was out of the car before I rebuilt and painted it, but I don't have the luxury of being able to do that with the body.

the issue I was having was because i was dealing with old and new surfaces, the more I read about POR15 the more it looked like it was finniky on what it was topcoated with. It looks like the Zero Rust product above will work on both surfaces and solve my dilemma.

Thanks again or all your help.

DIFFERENT SUBJECT: About how much lead time should figure on for you to make a console for me? Planning ahead to when the interior goes in and I need it...
 
Major milestone this weekend for me and my car. I spent a dirty 10 hours on friday cleaning under the car, then got up Sat morning and sprayed the Zero Rust. Also did the inner fenders, although they will eventually be done with bedliner. Still a lot of work to do, but having everything in one color makes it look like progress is being made. There is still some rust repair to do inside the rear wheelwells, then it should be time to lower it down and replace the rear quarters. I also used Eastwood Internal Frame Coating inside the frame rails and rockers to hopefully keep it from rusting from the inside out.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame- ... ozzle.html

I finally have a couple pics of progress to post. not much, but it's a step in the right direction.
 

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Epoxy primer topcoated with Eastwood chassis black. Eastwood rubberized undercoat only in wheel wells, fender undersides and valence undersides. The chassis black is super easy to touch up and blends in nicely.

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