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Kats Project

Aren't most men intimated by boobs? :craz

So we're going to change the front coil springs ourself. About to head to the store and get a compressor (internal) and a jack and stands. Any tips I should know before I start taking the car apart?
 
Be careful, very careful. Spring compressors are about the most dangerous things you will do with/on an old Mustang. Car on jack stands, jack under lower control arm. Slow and easy.
 
....and once the springs are out of the car, secure them before you release the compressor. Do not drop them while the compressor is attached. Lube the ACME screw thread on the compressor real good plus the washers on the ends. Keep fingers out of the way while spring is compressed in the car. If it does not feel right, re-evaluate the connection and do it right.

Other than the few things mentioned....it is real easy.
 
"Fast68back" said:
Be careful, very careful. Spring compressors are about the most dangerous things you will do with/on an old Mustang. Car on jack stands, jack under lower control arm. Slow and easy.

Do not put the jack stands under the control arms - locate the jack stands under the frame rails to let the suspension FULLY drop - reducing the amount that you have to compress the coil springs.
 
"70_Fastback" said:
Do not put the jack stands under the control arms - locate the jack stands under the frame rails to let the suspension FULLY drop - reducing the amount that you have to compress the coil springs.

Huh? If you jack the control arm you dont have to compress as much, just tighten compressor and lower jack.
 
"70_Fastback" said:
Do not put the jack stands under the control arms - locate the jack stands under the frame rails to let the suspension FULLY drop - reducing the amount that you have to compress the coil springs.

Huh? I put the stands under the rail and use a floor jack to raise the lower arm to the point it does not lift the car but gives max compression. Then install the compressor, tighten it a bit, drop the lower arm down and the spring may be ready to remove. A lot less compression work. Making me think here....that is bad for a retired bum....
 
I agree with Pete here! let the weight of the body of the car assist in compressing the springs! The compressors you rent at local auto parts aren't the highest quality and are quite "used"~ I kind of think of a compressed coil spring as a hand grenade, leathal potential energy! CLEAN and grease the threads of the compressor. I bought a Snap-on spring compressor (150.00) and I felt very comfortable with it/safe. Wear eye protection, gloves, etc.
dne'

"AzPete" said:
Huh? I put the stands under the rail and use a floor jack to raise the lower arm to the point it does not lift the car but gives max compression. Then install the compressor, tighten it a bit, drop the lower arm down and the spring may be ready to remove. A lot less compression work. Making me think here....that is bad for a retired bum....
 
Thanks guys! Oh we're putting on grab a trak 620# with 1" drop. This kit also came with new perches and a sway bar.
 
"Kats66Pny" said:
Thanks guys! Oh we're putting on grab a trak 620# with 1" drop. This kit also came with new perches and a sway bar.

Good news is you can probably get the new ones in without compressing them.
 
"Sluggo" said:
Good news is you can probably get the new ones in without compressing them.


I can R&R my 620# springs without a compressor!!
 
Ok this compressor is really annoying. Can't seem to figure out how to make it work (even following directions that came with it).

If you put it down in the springs, the bottom of the spring lifts off the perch, but the threaded bar of the compressor presses down on the perch and neither spring nor compressor will budge. Another thing, is the top part of the compressor (red arrows) suppose to be so loose and just be able to slide up and down so easily?

compressors.jpg


this is the compressor I have. Rented it.
843d1200923211anyoneuse.jpg
 
IIRC, you need to add spacers between the top hook and the nut to keep the bolt from bottoming out.

The top hook is loose so it has the adjustability needed.



I have one out in the garage if you want a pic.
 
It is really designed to work upside down from how one thinks. Put the hex head into the spring. The hooks on that end ride against the washers and the other hooks grab a spring coli as high as it can. The hooks should also be opposite each other in the clocking positions.

That is a pain in the butt to use that way.

As mentioned, the other way, you need some pipe or a bunch of washers to use it with the hex on top. The spacers go between the washers by the hex head and the3 block for the hooks.
 
Ok, I have one just like it in my tool box or similar, but that's where it stays now since the purchase of my Snap on compressor. I wound up using backasswards cause of the dilimma you're speaking of. I actually put the adjusting nut/bolt inside the spring and used a ratcheting wrench to turn it. With the coil spring compressed by the weight of the car(jack stand placed beneath the LCA) and the course threads on the tool itself, it came out fairly quick. They're a PITA no matter how you work them, but just make sure each hook is on its coil~ when you have it compressing in its intial tightening, just kind of lightly tap the spring to seat the compressor to the spring~ I said lightly tap it right, did I say lightly! lol When it's upside down, the remainder of the compressor bolt with exit the top of the shock tower. You're new 620's should go in much easier. That help? ; )

"Kats66Pny" said:
Ok this compressor is really annoying. Can't seem to figure out how to make it work (even following directions that came with it).

If you put it down in the springs, the bottom of the spring lifts off the perch, but the threaded bar of the compressor presses down on the perch and neither spring nor compressor will budge. Another thing, is the top part of the compressor (red arrows) suppose to be so loose and just be able to slide up and down so easily?

compressors.jpg


this is the compressor I have. Rented it.
843d1200923211anyoneuse.jpg
 
Thanks so much folks!! You have no idea how much ya'll helped.

Dne', thats pretty much how we got it done and :vic we now has new spring and perch replaced on passenger side!! As for the roller perches... now you tell me. LOL I am not changing perches anytime soon. That was a pain in the a$$ and still one more side to do. I will consider the roller perches later on though. They sound way better.

At this rate, I might actually get to learn to drive my car tonight! Yes, sad to say I don't know how to drive a slap shifter.
 
The next side will go much faster! Sorry about not saying anything regarding the spring perches, but there is nothing wrong with the stock non roller perches, especially for daily driving. While you have everything out of the way, be sure to lubricate your UCa's(hopefully they have grease fittings) and make sure they're intact, not squeaking, should move freely up and down with no slop. Take photos of what you're doing to in case you have questions and you can refer to your photos. WE LOVE PHOTOS!
hm, make sure or check to see if there are shims in between the UCA and frame. I believe that's how camber/caster is adjusted on your '66. I just keep thinking about what could be making your stang pull so badly to the right! Maybe the spring will hopefully take car of it, but be sure to check the steering linkage out, especially the idler arm and don't forget like we talked about checking the toe in/out.
dne'
 
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