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Leak?
- Thread starter RustyRed
- Start date
"lethal289" said:Yes, that is the exact valve body i have in my C4. Although i couldnt help you on the install. I gave it to the trans shop while they were rebuilding my C4. :craz
Gee, you're a lot of help, LOL!
I did a fast google search and there aren't any install directions online. One would assume if you bought it the directions would come with it.
TCI has a similar kit that I could find directions for on-line and it doesn't sound "that horrible".
By way of update on another topic...I changed out my pan gasket last night. Not hard to do really, took a couple of hours at most.
The bolt holes looked fine and flush already.
It had a cork gasket and it was just simply soaked to the bone in fluid. The bolts didn't seem tight at all. When I got the pan off there was zero scraping needed to get the old gasket off...just grabbed it and pulled and came right up in one piece. Probably could have dried it out and reused it.
I put a rubber gasket on this time.
Ran home for a few minutes at lunch today. Started it up and let it run a couple of minutes. Freaked me out at first, smoke was coming off the exhaust pretty heavy so I guess I got some fluid on there when I was taking the pan off but at first I thought it was coming out the tail pipes.
After I ran it there was still a drip when I put new paper under it but at least now the pan stayed dry, LOL!
It may still be dripping because while cleaner than I imagined it would be, taking the pan off with no drain plug is still a mess....I may have splashed some onto something. Or maybe I have more than one leaking spot. Don't know but I let it sit today with news print under it to see if it looks like it's still leaking and if it is to help me figure out where it's coming from.
The bolt holes looked fine and flush already.
It had a cork gasket and it was just simply soaked to the bone in fluid. The bolts didn't seem tight at all. When I got the pan off there was zero scraping needed to get the old gasket off...just grabbed it and pulled and came right up in one piece. Probably could have dried it out and reused it.
I put a rubber gasket on this time.
Ran home for a few minutes at lunch today. Started it up and let it run a couple of minutes. Freaked me out at first, smoke was coming off the exhaust pretty heavy so I guess I got some fluid on there when I was taking the pan off but at first I thought it was coming out the tail pipes.
After I ran it there was still a drip when I put new paper under it but at least now the pan stayed dry, LOL!
It may still be dripping because while cleaner than I imagined it would be, taking the pan off with no drain plug is still a mess....I may have splashed some onto something. Or maybe I have more than one leaking spot. Don't know but I let it sit today with news print under it to see if it looks like it's still leaking and if it is to help me figure out where it's coming from.
"lethal289" said:Yes, that is the exact valve body i have in my C4. Although i couldnt help you on the install. I gave it to the trans shop while they were rebuilding my C4. :craz
I was looking at this again on Summit's site, it will take me a couple weeks to save up the money since the new pan took all my parts money at the moment.
But the instructions say "You must engage selector lever into manual valve. Note that transmission will now become fully manual and
kickdown lever is now unused."
I am assuming that means what it says that you don't use the kick down any longer but does fully manual mean if you want it to down shift it you were to punch it you'd literally have to move the gear selector? It does say it is not a "full manual" deal on an ebay listing...I am confused....
Yes, in case you're wondering I am easily confused when the talk turns to transmissions. :dumas
The website is wrong. I called the manufacturer after receiving mine with the same questions. Im using the PA - 26301 (I went through the receipts to verify) and as the ebay listing states it is not fully automatic. I had to hook the stock kick down up to it. (67) Well kind of. On my application i also went with the hurst v-matic shifter (which changes the neutral safety switch hookup, but not really the kickdown but uses a kickdown adapter).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hurst-Shifters-3838525-Automatic-Shifter-V-Matic-2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5636d8d447QQitemZ370287367239QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3028wt_777
But the trans shifts great by itself with no problems in drive. You are correct in thinking that a full manual would need shifted all the time between gears. This valve body is not full manual. Hope that helps.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hurst-Shifters-3838525-Automatic-Shifter-V-Matic-2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5636d8d447QQitemZ370287367239QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3028wt_777
But the trans shifts great by itself with no problems in drive. You are correct in thinking that a full manual would need shifted all the time between gears. This valve body is not full manual. Hope that helps.
"lethal289" said:But the trans shifts great by itself with no problems in drive. You are correct in thinking that a full manual would need shifted all the time between gears. This valve body is not full manual. Hope that helps.
Yep...that helps a lot. I was scratching my head wondering how it was going to work to remove the kick down and not have a full manual, thought I must have been missing something. The same directions that are on Summit's website are on the manufactures website as well. They really should change the instructions if they are wrong.
A friend suggested that if you are going to change the valve body it would also be good to add one of these as well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-C4-C5-Billet-C-Ratio-Servo-Kit-C-4_W0QQitemZ370266741028QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item56359e1924
The valve body sounds easy enough and my buddy said changing the servo was even easier.
First thing I need to do is verify which transmission I have. I know it's a C4 but not sure if it is numbers matching or a new one out of the '70's, etc. I have receipts where previous owners have had it rebuilt through the years but it is possible in theory that this is not the transmission that was in it in 1966...not a big deal but it would possibly affect which kit(s) needs to be purchased. Not sure how to tell though...is there a stamp on it somewhere like the stamp under the starter on an engine block?
Guess what I might be doing Christmas weekend if all goes well, LOL!
Now i wish i would have done / known that. I was having a problem with mine when i first got the trans back from being rebuilt, when i took it back to be serviced i was told that the Servo bands needed adjusted. But it shifts well now. I dont know how much truth there was to that, but thats what he said.