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No Power!

W

Waffles

Member
Ok, I posted this at MF, and, as is typical, I only got one or two decent responses.

Battery is good. New pos and neg cables to the battery. No power. Not even to the cigarette lighter (radar detector)

What can I check?
 
Loose ground? Bad solenoid? Does the cig lighter on a '70 work with the key off or only on or Acc? Could be a break in the wire between the solenoid and Ign switch. Is the Ign switch stock or has it been replaced? Hazards work?
 
Use a schematic and a meter to trace power from the battery and see where it stops flowing at. With nothing working, it has to be in the main feed or the fuse box I believe.....
 
Cigarette lighter is always hot, but is typically fused from the main power line. In 1970, it is tied in with the blue/black wires of the courtesy lights. With all other power out, I would suspect the main power line from the starter solenoid (near the battery) to the fuse box is broken, or the starter solenoid nut that holds the wires on is bad. In 1970, the underdash harness contains a long lead (black) with a ring connector that goes to the starter solenoid. It should also break out wires for the S and I starter switch connectors, both 90* push-ons. I would start with the black cable first...it's probably brittle and has lost continuity. Ultimately, everything power related derives from this black wire.
 
Battery is 6 months old.

Cig Lighter is always hot.

Someone on MF mentioned points being fried killing everything. Is this the case? (Or do I not even bother checking it?)

Ground is not loose. It is brand new (AFTER there being no power) and still nothing.

Cables are clean.

Sorry, guys I'm an electrical IDIOT.

Should I check the fusebox under the dash and see if anything is toasted?

Thanks again for all the responses.
 
"Waffles" said:
Someone on MF mentioned points being fried killing everything. Is this the case? (Or do I not even bother checking it?)

Sorry, guys I'm an electrical IDIOT.
Click to expand...
Me too
I do know that fried points won't be the reason nothing else works. I'd follow the above advise and start at solinoid checking where your power stops. You should have more than 12v at bat and hot side of solinoid.
 
Isn't there a fusible link on these cars?
I'll look at my schematic. should be close to a 70.

Gauges or no gauges?

BTW....The points shit is absolutely ridiculous.
 
No fusible link on these cars. The only one was for convertible top motors.
 
I think Mid is on track with his suggestion.

I'm looking at the diagram for a 69, and referencing the 70 clone in the garage.

The black wire that comes off of the solenoid terminal where the battery positive attaches comes out about a foot
and then goes into a loom. Right inside the loom, there is a splice point where (gauge car) a green/black, red, and black
wire all splice together.

The black one takes off headed toward the junction block where it splices with another black that loops back to the alternator,
a yellow wire that feeds the ammeter, and a green/white wire that hits the block and turns black/yellow that goes to the fuse
box and on to the ignition switch.

The green/black wire goes to the voltage regulator.

The red goes to the other side of the ammeter.

I'm gonna say you either have a problem at the first splice point, you forgot to hook up the black wire at the solenoid, or there
is a connection problem at the block on the firewall where the outside harness and the inside harness join together.

On a car with no gauges the same splice point exists. The second splice point does not. There is a black/yellow and a yellow that
splice with the same black wire coming from the positive lug on the solenoid. Without the "shunt" circuit (the reason for the second splice mentioned above)
the yellow wire goes to the regulator and the yellow/black goes to the ignition but changes to yellow before it gets there.

Good luck.
 
Fixed! It was a blown fuse. Thanks everyone for the suggestions though! Now I just have to figure out where the hell the springs go to re assemble the seat tracks (totally different project)
 
"Waffles" said:
Fixed! It was a blown fuse. Thanks everyone for the suggestions though! Now I just have to figure out where the hell the springs go to re assemble the seat tracks (totally different project)
Click to expand...

So what fuse was it?
 
Didn't you read it? It was the BLOWN fuse. :naug You should be able to spot it right off.....
 
"AzPete" said:
Didn't you read it? It was the BLOWN fuse. :naug You should be able to spot it right off.....
Click to expand...

Oh!....Right next to the fellated fuse, correct?
 
....and you expected us to know it was there AND that it was bad. :rofl

Glad you found it and all is well until the next one.
 
That will have to be the first question when an electrical question is asked.... "Has your electrical system been modified in anyway that may not be illustrated on a factory wiring diagram, such as adding fuses"
 
.....or.....has a guy that goes by "Waffles" been near your car? That should tell us to look for the "Waffle fuse" :naug
 
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