• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Tilt column in 70 Mustang?

"miketyler" said:
$250 for the switch relocation on outer tube and includes both parts lockout tube and lower collar. I didnt ask details but he also offers $500 turn key service where you send him the column and he sends you the complete unit. This may not cover additional parts or any repairs such as worn pivot pions, lower locking pawl, etc.
Click to expand...
Wow, thats more than I expected. Good to know its another option.

"miketyler" said:
The lower collar is not the plastic cosmetic cover. Its the lower metal collar that attaches to the locking tube. On the Lincoln, its a column shift unit. This collar would be for a floor shift model and would relace the column shift collar.
Click to expand...
This is essentially the firewall bracket with the 4 bolts that attach it to the firewall right? Just making sure we're talking about the same thing. Couldn't you just loosen the clamp on the mustang column and install it on the lincoln tube (with lincoln bracket already removed)?

Also, you mention your Lincoln is a column shift. Do you have the hole for the shifter arm on the column like shown in that Ebay auction link above?

"miketyler" said:
Am told the 71 uses identical ignition lock cylinder assembly as 70. The 72-73 is different. I assume you are talking about the gear that is operated by the trangular shaped end on the lock cylinder? I would have thought it would be the same as Mustang? There is a snap ring that holds that in on the 71 Conti. My 70 cylinder slid right into place on the 71 Conti as well.
Click to expand...
Glad to see the 71 uses the same cylinder. My memory sucks right now, but the shape of my later 70's Lincoln was not triangular shaped. I think it was half-moon shaped or something. This was one of the hangups on my conversion . Maybe I need to get it out and revisit that conversion.

"miketyler" said:
I think the fixed assy uses a one piece steering shaft. The tilt is two piece and has a u-joint just forward of the pivot pins. Will get pics of the reassembly process.
Click to expand...
My 70 fixed column has a two piece shaft, since the column is collapsible. The lower shaft fits inside the upper shaft IIRC. The tilt shaft, I assume, would be a 3 piece. You have the upper shaft with the knuckle at the tilt hinge, then the lower 2-piece unit so that the column can collapse during a collision. Again, not something I've looked into on my Lincoln column but just a random thought.
 
I take it back, yes the fixed is two piece telescoping for the crash absorption affect. The Lincoln has that plus the ujoint for the tilt mech making it 3 pieces.

To illustrate, here are pics of the two 70-only pieces he provides, the lower collar and the lockout tube. Others sell the tilt lower collar for $100-$150 by itself. I am not sure how the tilt lockout tube is different from non tilt tubes. They may be the same and if so, perhaps you can use from your fixed column.

I will know more when I get my tube and parts back and can illustrate the process. The key would be to get a tilt column on the cheap. Tilt columns are rare but not scarce. They can be had for probably a little more than it will cost to do the conversion depending on what you pay for a donor unit. Also, these weren't designed to carry the torsional loads of standard steering models and I would only recommend tilts for power steering equipped cars.
 
Ahh, I'm following now! The lower collar replaces the lincoln one with the shifter hole. Makes more sense now! Thanks Mike :)
 
Got my converted outer tube back today and the lockout collar. It is as I pictured previous and is part number D0ZA-3790-DW. I will compare it to the Lincoln, perhaps it could be modified. Will detail the assembly, pivot points repair with pics later.
 
:rulz :wop Are you going to compile a how to for those interested? w/contact info for the person that does the switch relocation. :wor :hap
 
Absolutely. If you shop smart and do all the disassembly and reassembly yourself and need no new parts, you should be able to do this for <$350 depending on how cheap you can find a 71 donor tilt.
 
This is the column after conversion. Will need to cut off the lower set of studs at the old starter switch location.

The next pic shows the Lincoln lockout casting on the left and the Mustang Cougar on the right. Would be VERY difficult to make the Lincoln casting work. I dont know how many 70 tilt castings Ed has stashed away but that may be the limiting issue for someone considering doing this. I will get that part number off that casting and post it up.
 
Wow that looks great! Don't forget the firewall mounting plate ;)

Were you able to tighten up the slop in the tilt mechanism?
 
Yes, will detail that in the how-to but I got a machine shop to fabricate new pivot pins .003 oversize. They are a nice fit.
 
Here is a page from the manual. I have photoshopped the upper illustration to reflect the changes including discarding the column shift indicator, modifying ignition switch location and actuating rod, etc.
 

Attachments

  • diagram.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 106
When you are done, the only way anyone could tell it wasn't original is the slot in the top of the tube for the reverse light switch. Even if the idea of the conversion doesn't work for you there is valuable knowledge here to help you disassemble and rebuild your original column if it's loose. I have about $400 in my tilt including the donor column, the additional parts, and the switch relocation.

You will need

1. a working tilt column with turn signal switch from a 71 Mercury Continental, Mustang or Cougar (71 is the easiest model to convert)
2. tilt rag joint
3. trans lockout tube upper casting from 70 tilt column (D0ZA-3790-DW)
4. outer tube stud relocation (relocates starter switch closer to wheel)
5. Optional: lockout tube from 70 tilt column
 
Getting Started:
Start with locating a donor column. Columns from Continentals will probably be easier to find than a Mustang/Cougar. The 71 year is your best case as the key cylinder is the same as your 70 fixed column and can be reused. The 71 model year is also important If you want it to "look" correct as it has the plastic turn signal cover that is found on the 70 models. Later years did not have this. When looking for columns try and get a complete one with a good turn signal switch, rag joint, and plastic cover. The turn signal switch will be retained and will plug in to your existing harness directly. Purchased separately, these will add to the expense of the conversion. Expect to pay between $100 to $200 depending on how complete the unit is.

Before you disassemble it, test it in the car or clamped to a bench to ensure it locks in all 5 positions. If bench testing, mount a steering wheel on it and check it for looseness as well. The design isn't that great and these probably were a little loose from the factory. A few thousandths wear at the pivot points or at the lower locking pawl will be magnified when you mount a steering wheel on it.

Disassembly:
Disassembly is pretty straight forward. Just take your time. The key in any disassembly is take lots of pictures (and make notes if you plan to do a how-to). Remove the rag joint, reverse light switch, and firewall bracket if still attached. Remove and disconnect the ignition switch. Knock out the pin to the column shift lever and remove it and discard.

At the steering wheel end, remove the four screws that attach the upper cover and the two screws holding the turn signal switch assembly and key buzzer. Pull the upper cover away from the rest of the column. At this point you will probably have to remove the lock cylinder and drive gear to free the actuator pin assembly from the lower actuator casting. Carefully fish the turn signal connector free by pulling thru the selector ring and upper flange assembly webbing. Rotate the shift tube so the key bolt aligns with the hole in the outer tube and remove it. You should be able to remove the shift tube and gear selector casting now.

Pull the pivot pins by inserting an 8-32 machine screw into each pin and use a slide hammer to remove. These should remove easily. Use caution as there is a spring in between the upper flange assembly and the lower flange. There are three allen screws and dogs that mount the lower flange casting to the outer tube. Now pull the assembly with the steering drive shaft out. Remove those three bolts and remove the lower flange from the outer tube.

Remove the two retainer clips for the bale and remove it and the tiny spring and pin. Remove the pin in the locking lever and remove the locking lever and spring.Slide the lower actuator casting out of the upper flange assembly. Remove snap ring from shaft, and separate shaft and bearings from tilt casting. Clean and inspect all parts for damage.

Rebuild and Reassembly to follow

D1.jpg


D2.jpg


D3.jpg


D4.jpg


D5.jpg


D6.jpg


D7.jpg


D8.jpg






 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top