• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Ughh. Oil Leak. Help Please.

W

Waffles

Member
Ok, I have developed an oil leak over the winter.

Its not awful, but it's more than I'd care for. Best I can track it down to is like the timing cover/housing behind it (sorry for not knowing all proper terms)

So I took it to a shop locally to see if they knew anything I didn't. They agreed that's where it's coming from, said a new housing and timing cover set with gaskets is like $150 and they wanted 4 hours or so for replacing it. Yikes. I am not paying someone $500+ to do this, if it can be avoided.

Is this something I should be able to fix myself? I'm very mechanically inclined, but honestly don't know much about engines themselves. I am in an apartment right now with a storage unit, so it's not super convenient, but I will be moving into a house with my wife and my buddy in a month or so, so if I have to wait til then, I guess I can.

Anybody have any tips or walkthrough for doing this, or should I take it to a shop that knows what they're doing?

Also, I put on new valvecovers, and now I'm getting a lot of oil blowing out the breather cap and into the pcv hose. They mentioned a metal plate that can be mounted under the valve cover to prevent this, but I didn't know of it. Anyone know of this, or what it's called so I can check summit or jegs or fuckin Murrays or autojoke?

Thanks alot guys. I always post my technical questions here, because you guys actually know what you're talking about.
 
Not step by step but some idea. Easy task really. Drain coolant. Remove the radiator, power steering pump, alt, A/C compressor, and anything else on the front of the engine. Pull the water pump and the harmonic balancer. Remove the timing chain cover. Replace needed gaskets & seals. Re-install all items. Put in fresh oil and coolant. Some items can just be moved out of the way once unbolted from the engine so lines don't have to be removed.

As for the valve covers, there is a splash plate that mounts inside. Not all covers have the necessary place to mount them to.
 
The plate in the V.C. is commonly referred to as the "baffle". Mainly just keeps oil, as you said, fro splashing out, etc.

My Edelbrock VCs came with the plates seperate in the box with these lame ass twist/hammer in rivets. I pitched the rivets and just threaded in screws with thread lock to hold the plates in.

And just check your VCs for any internal bosses near the breather opening. If so, just cut a piece of sheet metal big enough to cover the breather opening hold and span the bosses. Drill sheet metal piece and attach to mounting bosses inside of VCs. Doesn't have to be pretty - just functional.

Oh, and my baffles appeared to be galvanized as well.
 
I agree totally with AzPete. I think the only real issue will be you need a harmonic balance puller not a gear puller to get it off. If you don't have one maybe you can borrow one but that should be the only special tool you need. The biggest pain in my experiance has been that when you pull the timing chain cover, the oil pan gaskets usualy tear. The gasket kit will come with little stubs but that usualy ends up leaking around there. If you can drop the pan when you do all this it might be worth the extra effort to get a whole oil pan gasket or you may just trade one leak for another...
On the valve covers, I have Tall Aluminum Ford Motorsports covers and they did have bosses to screw baffles too on the inside.
 
I have these VCs, except that they have the holes for breather and PCV
M-6582-L302.jpg


and I don't think they came with those baffles. I'll have to pull one and see if they have a place for them, and hope that if they do, I can buy some of the baffles on their own.

For everything else, it sounds like I should be able to do it, though i don't know anything about putting the balancer.
 
I have the same VC's only for a BB. You could just use some sheet metal and make baffles. My VC came with no holes but had a thin cast area to be cut out and bosses for screws.

Pulling the balancer isnt hard, just use the bolt holes for the pulley and not a gear puller on the outside or you'll pull the ring off. They are two peace with a rubber inbetween.
 
i don't know anything about putting the balancer.
Click to expand...

Your crank pulley is bolted onto the balancer with 3 bolts. Remove these bolts and give the pulley a whack and it will fall off.

In the center of the balancer is a LARGE bolt.... probably taking a 15/16ths - 1 inch socket. Remove this bolt. With the bolt removed, the only thing holding the balancer onto the snout of the crankshaft is a tolerance fit. Due to this tight tolerance (not pressed on, but still a tight tolerance), you'll have to rent through Autozone a balancer removal tool/puller.

The balancer obviously has your timing marks on it. There is a keyway on the crankshaft snout that will only allow the balancer to be installed in one position. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Be sure to change out the crankshaft snout seal which should be part of your timing cover gasket set. Also, opt for the timing cover set with the new crankshaft snout sleeve. The gasket set should be identified as "with sleeve" or "without sleeve".... get the one with the sleeve and install the sleeve onto the crankshaft snout to eliminate any surface imperfections on the snout and create a better sealing surface with the new timing cover crankshaft snout seal.

Got it? Good.

Now, what's this crap all about?

I will be moving into a house with my wife and my buddy in a month or so
Click to expand...

Did your wife leave your sorry ass already? Or are you sharing her?
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Did your wife leave your sorry ass already? Or are you sharing her?
Click to expand...

Haha no shes still stuck with me, but my buddy got a good job and is buying a house, and we're moving in with him because our rent will be less than half of what were paying for this lousy apartment. Thanks so much for all the help, I'm going to try to tackle this myself
 
It really shouldn't be that bad Waffles.

Back in my high school days I had an F150 with a 302 in it. One time, I took pretty much the entire front of the motor off and replaced the timing chain...had a leaky water pump seal and a friend suggested while I was that far in I should go ahead and replace the chain because it was a high miles motor. Got it done and didn't really know much back then, not that I am some super mechanic now either....

Only thing that I needed help with was getting a buddy to help me make sure the timing was set right after we fired her back up.

All you have to do is make careful note of how things come apart so you can put it back together like you found it.
 
The bolts thru the water pump and timing cover can be a bear. Sometimes they tend to break. Also, keep it straight which bolts go where as there are different lengths.
 
What is the name of the housing behind the timing cover itself? I need to order them both and I don't know what that piece is called.
 
I believe it is the block.... Let's see, the fan, water pump, gasket, timing chain cover, gasket, block, bell housing, transmission, drive shaft, rear axle.....at least it seems like my 302 is that way.
 
HI, dne' here,
Here's what I would do: I would take it to a car wash and clean the area of concern. I would want to know myself with my own eyes where the leak is coming from! Don't get the distributor soaked or you'll be stuck at the car wash for a while. Get a good flashlight, crawl beneath the car with/without it running, and find the culprit! I forget if the front seal is installed from the front or from inside the timing cover? Help here ya'll. I'd even check the oil sender switch for sure, and stupid simple stuff like the oil filter being a tad loose. If it is the scenario up above, then you have to make a choice then. Perhaps a new timing cover would be in order and a few mods while you have it apart depending on your finances. If you have a PCV valve, make sure it's working, an increase of crankcase pressure can blow oil out in various places. Take photos before so you'll have reference in going back together if you decide to do it yourself!
Hope this helps in your decision making. :pep
dne'
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top