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weird issue with factory tach

sigtauenus

Active Member
I started the car today to back it out and sweep the garage, and left it idling for about 5-10 minutes or so.


When I went to pull it back in, the tach was no longer reading. The factory tach circuit in this car is in series with the ignition, ie, if I have a bad connection in the tach circuit, the ignition won't work, ie, the engine won't run.


When I rev'd the engine, the tach would spin up rapidly to what looked accurate in the 2500-3500 range, but when I let it back down to idle, it would hang around 700 or so then drop to nothing.


Anybody ever see anything like that?
 

Midlife

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
Donator
I can't help you with your issue, but I do want to correct something you said. A series tach MAY cause the ignition to fail if the tach is bad, but not always. In series tachometers first use a transformer to pick up the changes in voltage due to the coil firing, but there still is a direct path to the coil should the tach-side of the transformer fails allowing the car to run. It is only when the ignition-side of the transformer fails that the car cannot run.
 

sigtauenus

Active Member
That's good to know, didn't know that.

Regardless, I just had the tach serviced by the Tachman, so I'm doubting its the tach. Will check the connections on the coil and behind the cluster.
 

sigtauenus

Active Member
So the tach is reading current flow to the coil, correct? Does that mean that if I have my electric choke hooked up to the coil that I am throwing off that reading? If so that would explain the reading on the tach changing after the engine warmed up. I wasn't tracking it but it was about the same time. I know its not supposed to be hooked up that way, but it was quick and easy and only meant to be temporary. I'll run the feed to a switched 12V connection under the dash and see if that changes anything.
 

sigtauenus

Active Member
OK, will do first thing in the morning. Have off tomorrow, well, taking a day off, need to take a final exam for my PME class. Will post back if moving the choke wire changes anything with the tach.
 

Midlife

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
Donator
That is probably the cause. My tach reads about 200 rpm lower with a Petronix installed rather than points.
 

tarafied1

Well-Known Member
I have installed a factory tach in my car (it wasn't an original tach car). I have the same problem. In fact I don't think it is very accurate at any rpm but I haven't verified it. this is how I wired mine since I couldn't find a schematic I made my own.
 

sigtauenus

Active Member
That's how mine is wired except I bypassed the pink wire because I need a full 12V to the coil. I have a jumper that goes from the tach directly to the + side of the coil. I just sent the tach out to be repair and it was calibrated against a Sunpro, and I have pics of it at 1000, 3000, and 8000. At 3000 it is dead on, at 1000 it is 100 low, and at 8000 it is about 200 high.

I ran this car for many years with the tach working just fine day in and day out. Not sure what the issue is. Its just annoying, I want everything to work. Period.
 

sigtauenus

Active Member
Here's those calibration pics


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sigtauenus

Active Member
No worries. I'm concerned though about you having the same problem. What kind of ignition system are you using? I have a pertronix II with the matching flame thrower II coil.
 
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