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17's/18's Help please

yeah, I think the original advise was based on some comments that you wanted to get it on the road and not spend a lot. Drum brakes work, the problem is they get hot and don't cool off as quick as disc. For the size of your car I would agree disc in front is a wise move but if budget and fabbing brackets is an issue you can easily get away with drum rear brakes. There are still a lot of "late model" cars with drum rear brakes. But I am not trying to talk you out of disc conversion. If you found something you like and feel you can make it work with your skills and budget then go for it!
Keep in mind a stick shift car really needs a parking brake. I don't know how much work that will take but if your cars drum parking brakes are all there that is another advantage to keep the drums. Just a thought.
 
"68angrypony" said:
For the price I don't think I could do it cheaper. The 13.2's come with a dual piston aluminum calipers and you can get both front calipers, pads, and rotors with less than 2 miles on them for 150 shipped off ebay from roush. They take them off to put their stuff on. At that price plus the bracket costs, I didn't really think I could go wrong as I would be getting superior braking for around 325 plus the little items to make it work on the car. Say 400 bucks and I have a 2012 set up. Looking at K/h calipers are over 100 a piece plus brackets are 50 a piece etc. It seemed for less money I would be able to get a superior brake set up that would be easier to get parts for as they are going to be in abundance. The newer rears are about the same price. So I don't fab, if I were to have someone make me brackets that would cost, so for bolt on you are always paying to get brackets which seem to be the most expensive part. I just believe that if you can do it right the first time then why not. If i do 13.2's in the front with dual piston calipers and newer brakes on the rear, no matter how I build the car, I don't think I will ever need "more" brake power. Its like a brembo, wilwood, other kit etc. Maybe even one day I could figure out how to add some abs if that's possible and have an amazing set up. That's my thinking. Am I completely off my rocks with my train of thought? I never see older cars at the junk yards around here, went to 5 over the last few weeks, and if their is something older it gets stripped. So at that rate its buying online and for 325 for some crazy brakes, I don't see to many downsides except having to use bigger wheels. Am I missing anything in my thought process? :char
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You really need to consider everything before you say one way or the other is best/cheapest. One brake set-up may force you to use more expensive wheels and tires for example. One may cost you more to make work on your ride than another, etc. Parts for any set-up should not be an issue so newer doesn't necessarily make it better.
You really need to look at cars that run big wheels (18+) and see how you feel about the look. Very few, IMHO, look good. Outside of a very modified, resto-mod they just look "wrong". From a tire perspective, 17" would seem the most friendly in terms of available choices.
Have you talked to Shaun at Street or Track yet? He can surely give you some good advice. Maybe even set you up with some of what you need.
 
"68angrypony" said:
What would that look like in terms of offset? seems a lot of wheels are using offset instead of back spacing. Will offset tell me anything or do I have to know the back spacing. For example, if I used an 18x8 set up with 0mm offset would that tell me anything for fitment?
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offset is distance from centerline vs backspace being the distance from hub to outer rim
bs-1.jpg
 
"68angrypony" said:
is their a strength or a performance difference from negative/zero/positive offsets? Or does it not matter? Just curious.
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As long as the final fitment places the wheel/tire in the proper location relative to the car (i.e. doesn't stick out) the only real concern, I believe, is appearance. A great example of this is the look of a deep dish wheel.
 
You probably don't need to worry about offset from that perspective (unless your going to redesign your suspension). All your worried about is what offset or backspace you need to fit the tire and wheel in your existing car. The charts and pictures are just so you know which one is which and what you are measuring.
I agree with Terry, I like a deep dish look or neg offset, Modern cars tend to have positive or no deep dish.
 
A deep dish wouldn't have a large back space correct. if you ran a really deep dish 17x8, you wouldn't use a 4.75 back space correct?
 
well an 8" wide wheel with 4.75" back space will have almost 3" worth of "dish" so-to-speak but may be positive offset (albeit small amount). The same BS on a 9.5" wide rim would make the back and front about the same but maybe zero offset. Make sense? The 9.5" wide rim would have more of a deep dish even if it still has a positive or zero offset than the narrower 8" rim with the same backspace.
 
I believe the 14x9's I have listed in the classifieds are 3.5 backspace. They are a deep dish from what I would consider deep and those sit all the way out towards the fender and the lip almost goes flush with the fender. From behind the car the wheels look really spread to the outsides. If I wanted to run a deep dish with a 17x8/9 or a 18x8/9 wheel, how would the back space look in order to not get the effect the 14x9's have on the car? for some reason my head isn't fully getting the whole deep dish and offset thing. :char
 
Okay, here is a 17x8 for an 05 and up Mustang. It has 5.72" BS and +30mm offset
28089G05


Here is a 17x8 for a classic Mustang with zero offset and 4.5" BS
$T2eC16NHJHQE9nzE)jzoBQyN!7JmPQ~~60_57.JPG


The zero offset rim is the same width but looks deeper.
You just need to find the right offset/BS for the look and fit of your car
 
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Make it really simple on yourself. Find a buddy or contact that has a 17" wheel sitting around and bolt it up and take your measurements of all things critical. Or, if you want to do it the "right" way, call Shaun at Street or Track and rent his tool (I think he still has one to rent) that bolts on as a wheel and you can adjust it to mimic any rim and tire spec you want to check for clearance. You can adjust your findings to compensate for any difference your brake choice may cause.

Or buy one!

http://streetortrack.com/Wheelrite-Whee ... 23561.html
 
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