• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

1967 Fastback converting to Electric Fans / Carburetor fuel boiling

There is a fair amount of personal preference for which way to go as either can likely meet the need. A couple thoughts. If you go electric as a replacement for the stock mechanical it is likely going to be loud due to the size required. I am currently set up this way and while it works I hate the way it sounds outside the car. You hear as much fan as you do engine.
Since your current set-up works well up until you get stuck idling for a while the addition of a pusher in front of the radiator might be a better option. It can be wired through a sensor to only turn on as needed when the car gets too hot.

You might also think about simply trying the high volume 6 bladed mech fan too.
 
Does anyone ever put the pusher in front of the AIR Conditioner evaporator?

Also any recommendations on pushers?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well if I go with the 2500cfm puller fan and shroud which requires (see below). I assume I should use a 180f thermostat?

I did a little research and it seems carbs need to fun just a tad lower the EFI’s?

8cc0c62f03d2cedd5fa0e421447e500b.png



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well I’m going to try everything!!

Plan A:

First:

I will keep the mechanical fan and insert a 14 inch 1200cfm in front of the AC condenser. I will test it and see if that works.

Plan B:

If that does not work then I will remove the mechanical fan and replace it with the 16 aluminum shroud puller fan.

I will keep you guys posted!!







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Before you go to the electric fan, have you installed the phenolic spacer yet? That single and cheap item will be the most helpful to keep your fuel from boiling.
 
He's battling a couple issues at once in this thread. The focus right now (most recent posts) is trying to keep the car from overheating.
 
He's battling a couple issues at once in this thread. The focus right now (most recent posts) is trying to keep the car from overheating.
good point but I'd still go with the spacer. It's cheap and easy... (I'll just leave that wording right there).
 
He's battling a couple issues at once in this thread. The focus right now (most recent posts) is trying to keep the car from overheating.
I beg to differ. His post (#4) states:
"I have an old style gauge for temp (no numbers). It’s does seem to work. And if I’m idling it never has reached the middle. At most maybe 40%, but normal around 30% then when I start driving it will go down near C. During cruise (as expected) always at c."
To me, this is perfectly acceptable gauge response. No mention of coolant overflow or excessive temperatures, although it would be nice not to have the gauge creep up at idle.

Re-reading the thread, he said that the phenolic spacer is 1" thick and is concerned about the carb hitting the hood, so he's going to this quick cool spacer that is only 1/2 thick. I'm not sure how much effect it will have, other than draining his wallet...
 
Since I had the quick fuel carb, I went ahead and installed the cool plate, which is a sandwich of about 1/2. I could do another 1/4.



1575c8b2034f4afa2c263f72793a9325.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I beg to differ. His post (#4) states:
"I have an old style gauge for temp (no numbers). It’s does seem to work. And if I’m idling it never has reached the middle. At most maybe 40%, but normal around 30% then when I start driving it will go down near C. During cruise (as expected) always at c."
To me, this is perfectly acceptable gauge response. No mention of coolant overflow or excessive temperatures, although it would be nice not to have the gauge creep up at idle.

Re-reading the thread, he said that the phenolic spacer is 1" thick and is concerned about the carb hitting the hood, so he's going to this quick cool spacer that is only 1/2 thick. I'm not sure how much effect it will have, other than draining his wallet...
Try scanning the last couple pages the talk of engine heat progressed further from the initial question and suggestions. He's provided a lot more info including actual temp readings. Come on, man!
 
Ya, I did overpay on the phenolic spacer. Pretty interesting concept though, the inner material is strange. But anyways there is a drop in temp. But I should have used the temp gun before I installed the cool plate so I could see what the difference really is.

O well.

So yes my investigation has led to the topic of over heating, which I hope to fix in the coming weeks. The electric fan won’t be here till week.

Stay tuned!!







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Update 1-

A- New thermostat 180.
B- Front spal fan 11 inches was the biggest that would fit :(.

Results: It will hold around 217.

Summary: So the good news it does seem to help. That bad news not enough!

Tomorrow I will try to install the puller fan and I think I will also keep the pusher.



40dae00d2afa9cce685b659fb71403fa.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I see you have an A/C condensor in front ???
You should seal the condensor to the radiator so you don't loose airflow.(exspecially when using a pusher)
A "sucker" iow "puller" is way more efficient ! Keep that in mind .:p
 
So... I just read your thread and have, in the past, experienced similar problems with a 67 with a 351w. What I/we don't know is:
How fresh is the engine rebuild?
Did you have the work done?
If and how much the cylinders have been bored...
I chased overheating for 2 summers only to find out that the engine builder bored the engine .060 over and didn't let the previous owner know. I ended up having to start with a fresh block, and you know the rest.
I know nothing about your engine, but that's what happened to me...
 
UPDATE 2

Great news.

I installed the puller without the shroud, because to properly install this set up the fan needs to be on the outside of the shroud to create a suction. Problem is I don’t have enough room.

So I just strapped the puller and pusher just to test.

Results:

I ran my car to a temperature of 210 with the fans off then I manually turned on both fans.

Within 1-min the temp dropped to 195.

I idled it For 10 minutes!!! In 90 degree fl weather in the garage with the hood closed and averaged around 188 and 195.

So stoked!!

However I will return the fan and shroud (overpaid Cj poney kit). and purchase a high volume Spal 16 inch puller.

So I will be down for a week or so.

But in the mean time I will permanently install the pusher.

I might even make my own shroud that is 1/2 inch away from the radiator to create a suction and mount the puller to the outside. We will see.

3fcc866630032c70d5d1c6fe249e125f.heic





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Nice. A thought to consider and monitor. That will be a lot of juice being used to power both fans. Make sure your alternator is up to the task.
 
Small Update:

I permanently installed the pusher. I hooked it up to the compressor so it’s comes on when the AC is on.

5ee8530904c8bff58a7cf1fdcbed4cf1.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top