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2007 4.0 V6 died

just in case anyone is following (and more just because I fell like sharing), here is an update on the conversion.
  • I bought a replacement/used fuel pump for the 12 tank on eBay for $60 (it was from a 14 with 102K miles)
  • I put the tank in and discovered that the 07 and 12 use different diameter fuel lines... (also the EVAP connector is different)
  • I pulled the the EVAP and fuel line from tank to engine from the 12 and replaced the ones on the 07
  • The 12 has no in-line servicable filter (it's in the pump, except on the GT500), so there is that...
  • I cleaned up the 8.8 from the 12 and painted with POR15 and replaced the pinion seal (reset the pinion crush to 8lbs/inch)
  • The 8.8 is a LSD but has 2.73:1 gears, that may change later...
  • I put the wiring all in the car and reinstalled the carpet, I started putting in the HVAC from the 12 and discovered the firewall needs to be modified... so it has to come back out.321796283_465045475629443_1005579501520649705_n.jpg
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I may have forgot to mention that I broke the 12's left fuel pump when I pulled the tank. I forgot to disconnect the fuel line before I lowered tank (which was more than half full). Anyway, the weight of the tank on the line broke the connector on the pump. That is why I had to get another pump for the left side. While the tank was out of the car and I had to pull the pump anyway, I pulled them both and drained both sides of the saddle tanks and cleaned the tank. It wasn't too dirty inside but now it's spotless! It was a lot easier to install empty! I also have about 10 gallons of lawnmower gas now too!!!
Now that I have the 12 tank, pumps, EVAP and fuel lines. The fuel filler neck for the 12 is a cap-less design and has a vent line from the EVAp system. The 07 still has a cap and no vent. I am going to pull the fuel filler neck from the 12 as well and the fuel door. I will see if I can update the 07 body to the cap-less fuel filler. I am glad I haven't hauled the 12 to the scrap yard yet!
 
Absolutely amazed at the stuff you take on. And your ability to get it done! You are the impetus for my New Years resolution. 2023 the year I get off my ass. It better be, clock is ticking.
 
Horseplay said:
Absolutely amazed at the stuff you take on. And your ability to get it done! You are the impetus for my New Years resolution. 2023 the year I get off my ass. It better be, clock is ticking.
Click to expand...
thanks for the compliment! I think you must be doing alright though!
 
I swapped the 2012 side mirrors and got the rear-end all buttoned up. I should be able to drop the engine in this weekend
It’s moving along!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Good job Craig !!
It amaze me what you can do regarding switching parts between car models that are 5 years apart !!!
Its that what makes the aftermarket huge in the states I guess .
Ok , you have to do some modifications but try this with Mercedes-Benz or any german made car.
Great job Craig. Wish I could come by your place once in awhile to help you out. Love that kind of work !!!
 
the car is all together, it's a 200712 Mustang... Looks like a car again.
everything works.... almost. It won't crank.
It has full power on positive lead at solinoid but no signal on trigger lead of solinoid when using key. I jumped across those and starter works. I have tested the starter relay and circuit, found I didn't have a "control" signal when using key. Hooking up test light to + and checking control side from BEC relay connector to solinoid shows a good connection but the control side of the relay does not get power with key in start position. SO I checked the clutch safety swith or "clutch position" switch as Ford calls it (there is also a seperate switch to disengage cruise control). I have continutity when depressed. It's a "self-adjusting" switch so I reset the adjuster (fully extended) to ensure it was engaging. It self adjusted and that all works as it should. So I checked for power. No power to the switch when key is in start position. I checked the fuses again (I think that was actully the first thing I did). There is a fuse and relay in BEC (bussed electical center) under the hood and a fuse in the SJB (smart junction box) in passenger kick panel. I swapped out the various start related fuses and relays anyway. Still nothing. Ignition switch seams to be working as it controls all the gauges cycling and the idiot lights coming on and going thru the checks. I don't have a PATs security light (picture of a car with a pad lock) on or flashing and it does work. It comes on when I put key to "run" and goes off with all the others after a second or so. I got the doors, trunk latch, windows, radio, HVAC controls, lights, etc., etc. all working. Battery volts are 13.26. Engine ground checks good. I've checked all the conectors to ensure they are plugged in. So far nothing obvious has presented itself.
Cheap parts store scanner shows no DTCs/error codes. Scanner does recognize the car as a 2012 V6 with the VIN of the 2012.
So I am venturing into the unknown (at least for me). I downloaded FORscan for Windows, the recomended Ford scanning/programming software. I ordered an expensive cable to hook my Windows based laptop USB to the OBD2 port. As soon as it gets here I will attempt to comunicate with the PCM. Wish me luck, otherwise the 3.7 is coming back out and I'm building another big block with a carb and a distributor...
 
Maybe you have to close and open your car with the remote control/alarm so the car knows its been opened by the right key and gives you starter permission ???
Or disconnect the battery for a brief time and reconnect. So all systems reboot ?? My2eurocent.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
 
well guys, I am about at my wits end with this thing. I guess there some things
B67FSTB said:
Maybe you have to close and open your car with the remote control/alarm so the car knows its been opened by the right key and gives you starter permission ???
Or disconnect the battery for a brief time and reconnect. So all systems reboot ?? My2eurocent.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I've tried everything. There are just some things that should not be done. This is one of them. I can probably make money parting it out. Just lost a lot of time is all.
 
Did you try pressing the clutch? Sometimes, there's an interlock.
I presume you're using the key that goes with the transplanted electrical system.
 
What about that damaged wiring connector? Was that not the problem?

Hopefully you can figure it out after all the time you've invested in this.

Modern cars have to many damn sensors and modules that have to communicate or nothing works. It's definitely a project that would be above my knowledge.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
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