tarafied1
Well-Known Member
Re: 302 is combing out.
when mine broke, I could see the crack in the casting.
when mine broke, I could see the crack in the casting.
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302 is coming out.
- Thread starter jmbour66
- Start date
Re: 302 is combing out.
I pulled the engine this AM and checked the pump for cracks etc., it looks good, I also got the Torque Converter to seat. Now I'm wondering about bringing this all together.
Can I back the Transmission away from the engine, bolt the engine in place and bring the transmission to it?
If so, do I need to remove anything (drive shaft, bolts, etc.) to get enough play in the transmission?
As you all are figuring out, I know just enough to be dangerous!
"tarafied1" said:
I pulled the engine this AM and checked the pump for cracks etc., it looks good, I also got the Torque Converter to seat. Now I'm wondering about bringing this all together.
Can I back the Transmission away from the engine, bolt the engine in place and bring the transmission to it?
If so, do I need to remove anything (drive shaft, bolts, etc.) to get enough play in the transmission?
As you all are figuring out, I know just enough to be dangerous!
blue65coupe
Well-Known Member
Re: 302 is combing out.
You can back the transmission away but will have to basically let it set free. It can't be secured to the crossmember, driveshaft, etc. Typically I'll have the transmission sitting on the crossmember (unbolted) with a rope tied around the bellhousing and secured at the hood hinges. Drop the engine in place but don't tighten the mounting bolts. This will let you secure the engine to the transmission with a little play in both. Once you get the engine/transmission secured to each other go back and secure each to the car. Think along the lines of installing the engine/tranny as one unit except they are both sitting inside the vehicle. Hope that helps.
You can back the transmission away but will have to basically let it set free. It can't be secured to the crossmember, driveshaft, etc. Typically I'll have the transmission sitting on the crossmember (unbolted) with a rope tied around the bellhousing and secured at the hood hinges. Drop the engine in place but don't tighten the mounting bolts. This will let you secure the engine to the transmission with a little play in both. Once you get the engine/transmission secured to each other go back and secure each to the car. Think along the lines of installing the engine/tranny as one unit except they are both sitting inside the vehicle. Hope that helps.
blue65coupe
Well-Known Member
Re: 302 is combing out.
Very important fact for you to be aware of....I only think I know enough to be dangerous so take my suggestions with caution.
"jmbour66" said:
Very important fact for you to be aware of....I only think I know enough to be dangerous so take my suggestions with caution.
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
Re: 302 is combing out.
Also make sure that the converter drain plug lines up with the hole in the flex plate. When everything is aligned correctly the trans and engine should just slide together. You should never use the bolts to pull them together.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
Also make sure that the converter drain plug lines up with the hole in the flex plate. When everything is aligned correctly the trans and engine should just slide together. You should never use the bolts to pull them together.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
Re: 302 is combing out.
:yah I took a long lunch and wrenched more on the vert. Thanks to all of the advice I received the engine and trans are back in the car and married up with little trouble. The engine can be cranked by hand, tomorrow I'll get the starter back on and try that as well.
Thanks again everybody, it's amazing how much easier it is with good advice!
:yah I took a long lunch and wrenched more on the vert. Thanks to all of the advice I received the engine and trans are back in the car and married up with little trouble. The engine can be cranked by hand, tomorrow I'll get the starter back on and try that as well.
Thanks again everybody, it's amazing how much easier it is with good advice!
blue65coupe
Well-Known Member
Re: 302 is combing out.
Good to hear
Good to hear
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
Re: 302 is combing out.
Glad to hear that you got it worked out.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
Glad to hear that you got it worked out.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
A
Anonymous
Guest
Re: 302 is combing out.
I use / would use the pointer.
I use / would use the pointer.
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Anonymous
Guest
Re: 302 is combing out.
Got me, never have seen one like that.
Got me, never have seen one like that.
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Anonymous
Guest
Re: 302 is combing out.
I would think it would work as long as the distributor gear works with the cam gear (correct metal), but I'm only used to working on mine and that may not translate to an newer block. Try sending a PM to Pete (AZPete), he may know.
I would think it would work as long as the distributor gear works with the cam gear (correct metal), but I'm only used to working on mine and that may not translate to an newer block. Try sending a PM to Pete (AZPete), he may know.
apollard
Active Member
Re: 302 is combing out.
It will fit, but you need a dist. with a steel gear. Your cast gear will not last long.
You can change the gear on yours, FRPP has one, as do others - check summit (like this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-29418/) or jegs. I got a rebuilt duraspark distributor at the local parts store and used mine as the core - got the gear and the electronic dist at the same time.
It will fit, but you need a dist. with a steel gear. Your cast gear will not last long.
You can change the gear on yours, FRPP has one, as do others - check summit (like this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-29418/) or jegs. I got a rebuilt duraspark distributor at the local parts store and used mine as the core - got the gear and the electronic dist at the same time.
Thanks for the info, I'll get a new gear ordered.
I got the engine started this AM and it had a loud tick that sounded like lifter trouble, I pulled the valve cover and it turned out to be a loose rocker arm. After that the engine sounded and idled great :thu.
I noticed that after running the engine for a bit, if I go to immediately restart it, it turns over slowly. I assume this is being caused by the starter getting to warm from the headers; if this is the case does anyone have an easy fix like header wrap, etc.?
I got the engine started this AM and it had a loud tick that sounded like lifter trouble, I pulled the valve cover and it turned out to be a loose rocker arm. After that the engine sounded and idled great :thu.
I noticed that after running the engine for a bit, if I go to immediately restart it, it turns over slowly. I assume this is being caused by the starter getting to warm from the headers; if this is the case does anyone have an easy fix like header wrap, etc.?
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Anonymous
Guest
Hi torq mini-starter and never look back. It could also be the timing is too far advanced or you need a spacer between the carb and intake.