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65/66 E-Flasher Systems Now Available!


Well-Known Member
Staff member
Okay gang, I finally figured out how Ford designed and built their 65/66 emergency flasher systems. Once known, the question was could I recreate the system to mimic not only their functionality, but the look and feel of the system. The answer is: YES!

Here's the skinny. For 1965 and through March, 1966, Ford used a harness that fit between the main harness and the turn signal disconnect that contained the emergency flasher can and switch. After March, Ford built an integral harness into the main harness but had an unusual connector that fit into a separate switch. In both cases, the switches were proprietary and a very unusual design, not one that is commercially available. I figured out the logic and can re-create the switch using a similar toggle switch. None of the harnesses, switches, or mounting plates are reproduced. I can produce the harness and switch that mimics the functionality that Ford designed. It won't look concours, but when you see the prices, you won't care. Besides, no one can see it! For the latter design, I can create the switch and a pigtail that can plug into your existing unusual connector.

Now for price information.
  • If you have an existing early model harness and working switch, I can refurbish it for $25.
  • If you have an existing early model harness without a switch, I can refurbish it and give you a switch for $50.
  • If you want to buy an early model harness with switch, the cost will be $100. This harness would contain as much OEM wiring as I can find.
  • If you have a later model 66 harness, I can provide you the switch and pigtail to fit your connector for $25.
  • If you have a later model 66 harness and want it refurbished and want an e-switch, the cost will be $200.
  • I cannot provide you the mounting bracketry, but all you need is somewhere near the glovebox with a 0.500" hole.
  • Don't forget the 10% discount for all StangFix members until Feb. 28, 2010
Well well well! A StangFix'er kindly pointed out to me that the 65-to-mid-66 harness is still available from Mustangs Unlimited for $60: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=F1587+01#. Pete and I spent some time online going through their catalog and couldn't find it; it's on the bottom of page 294. Now notice on this harness that it just has bare wires going to the switch area itself, requiring a splice if you have a working switch.

If anyone wants to buy this harness, I'll still add the switch for a measly $25, including shipping.
If you had searched for something besides "flasher" you might have gotten off of the girly pages....... :lol
I'll touch base with you sometime soon.

I don't recall off the top of my head when my coupe was built in '66 (i.e. ealy verse later) but I'll double check my notes.

I have the harness and switch on my car but it doesn't work...my best guess is the switch on mine is old but the wires are original and probably have seen their better days as well.

E flashers are one thing I would like to get working. My car is pretty dependable but you never know when something is going to leave you on the side of the road after dark...even a flat tire can do that.
I got the toggle switches in today, and I'm ready to rock 'n roll! I'll be doing my first full repair of an e-flasher toggle switch system this weekend!
Heck, If we would have had the switch, it could have been done last weekend.Not difficult to do, just have to sort things out mentally and that takes a couple of Wattles.......
As folks state on this forum: things don't happen unless there are pictures.

Here's the 66 emergency switch harness (switch end) without the switch or switch housing. This is typical of what one finds.

Another view:

Splicing into the e-switch pad wires and into the new switch:

Another view:

Installing the bracket/name plate, I found the threads to be identical to the original. The new switch has a key-way, whereas the originals had a d-shape hole. Fortunately, everything fits despite this small discrepancy.
Thanks for the update on this!!! I'm excited to follow this one. Seems you might have finally licked this persistent problem.

One question I've always wondered about. The schematic shows one line going into the flasher and 1 line going out. Your pictures indicate (and my car is the same way) that there are two going in and two coming out. I've never traced this, and since you're the harness GUY, can you help me understand why the double leads in and out?
You got it all wrong. There's one true line going in, and it's jumpered to two other input lines. When the switch is ON, all three output lines are now tied to the input lines, which are all the same (i.e. the flasher output). With the switch is OFF, the input line(s) are now separated from the three, independent output lines.
Good job Randy! Wish you'd have done this a year and a half ago. I did it the hard way and kept ordering ones off ebay until I got a switch that worked. My original switch had a broken black plastic piece inside. Fortunately it helped me by taking it apart, figuring it out, and helping others troubleshoot problems. I also just sent the parts to another stangfix-er so he could rebuild his switch. Guess that means I took away some of your business though. :sad At least I know now where to go now if my switch goes bad. :ecit