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65 FB Scratch Build

Wow, I just found this thread. Very cool stuff going on.

If you don't mind I have a wiring question as I'm thinking about going back into my car and re-working things. Great tech on the terminal pins to replace the factory ones.

Have you given thought to a bulkhead connector for going through the firewall?

I love your overall strategy of building the car once, tearing it apart, filling extra holes, painting and then just a simple final assembly. If you have connectors and complicated wiring on the engine side of the wall I can imagine a really hard time of getting everything through your single grommet hole.

I found a 22-pin Weatherpack bulkhead connector on Amazon that I just ordered. Search '22-pin bulkhead connector' and you'll come up with three of them to choose from - all for under $35. FYI, Painless sells this same one for $90+!

Anyway the only difference in the three is which pins come in the box since the Weatherpack cavities are the same size, but they vary the seal size, etc. I went with the $33 one since it has a few pins for up to 12 gauge wire.

I'm thinking about using it for ignition wires, sensor wires, etc. This way if I decide to pull the engine I can simply remove one connector on the firewall, wrap the harness around the carb and I'm unhooked.
51ykLjs8F%2BL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
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Thanks, I will check those out.

In the mean time, I have been working on the e-brake handle. Decided to scrap the stock pull handle and go with this Lokar handle:
330-041212053854-105852322.jpeg


I want to mount it between the seats on the top of the tunnel. I have the one piece Dynacorn seat rise, this will need a little modification:
330-041212053853-10584365.jpeg

330-041212053856-10586710.jpeg


I welded a flat plate back in and then cut a slot for the handle to pass thru:
330-041212053858-10587351.jpeg

330-041212053900-10588148.jpeg


Then plug welded the floor to the plate:
330-041212053902-10589951.jpeg


The handle will sit something like this (at a slight up angle), not sure how I am going to mount it yet. Need to think about how the carpet will lay around this stuff also:
330-041212053905-10590205.jpeg
 
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More progress on the e-brake handle. Made this bracket:
330-061212053655-10596451.jpeg


Then added Rivnuts to mount it to the modified tunnel:
330-061212053656-105972379.jpeg

330-061212053658-105981611.jpeg


Will route the cables next in the tunnel and I may add a little more steel around the bracket to support the carpet and make it lay better over all the bumps and edges.
 
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Yes, there is a boot and bezel, I tapped the bracket for the bezel screws, here is a pic (boot not installed):
330-171212055610-10605937.jpeg


The Wilwood rear brake kit that I am using uses explorer type cables, Lokar (EC-81FU) makes a nice set, that also works perfect for the handle that I am using. The cables run to the top of the tunnel, then up to the handle:
330-171212055559-105992049.jpeg

330-171212055602-106022191.jpeg

330-171212055608-106042057.jpeg

330-171212055605-10603289.jpeg
 
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I'm thinking of doing the same e-brake setup on my 67FB as I have also installed a conv. seat pan from dynacorn when I replaced the floor.

Only thing I wonder about is how much strength is removed when you cut a "flat" into the center hump?

Just by looking at the modified hump you can tell it is still way stronger than the two separate originals it has replaced... so in saying that, I guess it
 
There are also several ways that you could about modifying the tunnel, I did it this way because it seemed like the easiest way for me... I'm sure there are other ways, the tricky part, if you don't do it this way, is dealing with the double walls...
 
Made a driveshaft hoop. Got these pieces bent up in the shop at work, 1/4" thick, 2" wide:

330-271212061515-106062171.jpeg

330-271212061517-10617507.jpeg

330-271212061519-10618371.jpeg


a little POR15:
330-271212061521-106192461.jpeg


and tacked it in place, will finish welding when I get everything back off the body:
330-271212061526-10621285.jpeg

330-271212061523-1062030.jpeg
 
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"65-408" said:
Made a driveshaft hoop. Got these pieces bent up in the shop at work, 1/4" thick, 2" wide:

330-271212061515-106062171.jpeg

330-271212061517-10617507.jpeg

330-271212061519-10618371.jpeg


a little POR15:
330-271212061521-106192461.jpeg


and tacked it in place, will finish welding when I get everything back off the body:
330-271212061526-10621285.jpeg

330-271212061523-1062030.jpeg

Very nice. Did you make the same thing at the rear (but longer to allow for suspension travel)? Its usually there they let go and beat the brake/fuel line and floor to death.
 
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65 FB Scratch Build

Is there enough room for movement of the drive shaft? The pic looks pretty close.
 
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