• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Anybody lowered a convertible seat pan?

So I bit the bullet and just welded the sucker in. It isn't as stiff as it was originally, but its stiffer than the coupe pans. Along with the X-brace underneath and the roll bar I think the torsional strength of the floor should be quite good. I wish I had taken the time to rig something up to actually measure the improvements but oh well.

I welded in some 1/8" thick, 2" x 2" plates under the seat mounting holes to hopefully prevent tear out if ever the car is in a shunt:
IMG_1836.JPG


Painted the underside, painted the floor underneath and welded it in:
IMG_1838.JPG


IMG_1839.JPG


IMG_1841.JPG


Another side project, filling the 4 floor drain holes for a cleaner look. Flattened the lip with a hammer and dolly, cut a patch, welded in and smoothed:
IMG_1829.JPG


IMG_1831.JPG


IMG_1832.JPG


IMG_1833.JPG


Does it ever end? At some point I need to stop messing around and get painting and put this back together!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Very nice workmanship Shaun... it looks like you have it very well covered with everything you've got going on there.
 
Shaun,

Great work! It looks awesome!

Not to hijack your thread, but I have a question that is somewhat related to your project.

I'm wanting to replace the under-dash parking brake with a hand brake mounted on the trans tunnel.

The big knock is that I've got a convertible with the reinforced seat pan and the optimal mounting position for the hand brake is smack dab in the middle of the reinforced ridges. Any ideas on how to do this so that I don't loose any strength?

Any ideas would be appreciated,
-Shannon
 
"LastDeadLast" said:
Shaun,

Great work! It looks awesome!

Not to hijack your thread, but I have a question that is somewhat related to your project.

I'm wanting to replace the under-dash parking brake with a hand brake mounted on the trans tunnel.

The big knock is that I've got a convertible with the reinforced seat pan and the optimal mounting position for the hand brake is smack dab in the middle of the reinforced ridges. Any ideas on how to do this so that I don't loose any strength?

Any ideas would be appreciated,
-Shannon
Click to expand...

I've never seen how the trans. tunnel mounted handles work... Couldn't you box in the ridges and mount it up there? Or, just stick with the under dash one. You got short arms? Or are you planning on running some rally stages? :pbj
 
"stangg" said:
Very nice workmanship Shaun... it looks like you have it very well covered with everything you've got going on there.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Its nice to get my hands dirty on my own car but I'll leave the welding of the parts we sell to my certified guys. It has been a fun project but I'm looking forward to being done and driving it! Next up is to modify the roll bar mounting points and make a seat mount.
 
"Shaun" said:
I've never seen how the trans. tunnel mounted handles work... Couldn't you box in the ridges and mount it up there? Or, just stick with the under dash one. You got short arms? Or are you planning on running some rally stages? :pbj
Click to expand...

Well, I mostly want to do this for two reasons:

1. I hate under dash e-brakes for sport(y) cars and..
2. My car didn't come with any e-brake parts, so since I have to buy it all anyway, I should just get something that's functional...

Plus... the tunnel mounted e-brake will come in handy when I quit my day job and sign up for a lucrative career in drift racing....
:steer

-Shannon
 
Ah, I see. What shifter setup do you have/plan on using? I wonder if you could add a plate over the top of the tunnel to tie the 2 ridges together and mount the handle to that?
 
I have a center mounted handle and the forward mounting point rests on top of the rear flange of the 1 piece base... the seat base does not get in the way of the ebrake mechanism. In the pic below, you can see where the console is contoured to fit over the back bulge of the seat pan. I used a Fox body mechanism but shortened the handle about 4-5 inches, and replaced the spring mechanism with a short arm welded to the handle that runs through the floor.

console_420_sm.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I ordered a pair of Kirkey aluminum seat mounts and added a few extra holes to make them some what more adjustable. I have an inch or 2 forward/backward/up/down and quite a few degrees of tilt. I set the seat up for what feels good just sat in it at the shop but with the extra holes I can make adjustments at the track if need be.

IMG_1867.JPG


IMG_1870.JPG


IMG_1869.JPG


Winter project is getting closer to being done!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
"LastDeadLast" said:
Really nice work Shaun, can't wait to see that beast in action at VIR.

-Shannon
Click to expand...

Shannon,

Thanks. Like your project, its taking ages to get all the pieces in there and ready for paint, but its coming. Now I know the shoulder belt location I can start work on the roll bar. I'm hoping to start paint in March so I can have it assembled and ready for some testing in April. I'm signed up for 3 days at VIR so should be fun! See you there, looking forward to meeting you.
 
"LastDeadLast" said:
Speaking of seat belts... I need to call you to talk about different options.

When would be a good time?

-Shannon
Click to expand...

Anytime. If you don't catch me leave a message and I'll call you back. :thu
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top