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Anyone ever install a ProCharger on an FE Big block ??

W

Wrench

New Member
So it comes down to stroking the block or installing a ProCharger. I'm trying to find out what kind of power increase a ProCharger on an FE can put out and how the install was done, specifically the mounting bracket for the blower onto the block.

If I stroke the block, I assume my mileage will be far less. A ProCharger will have have the best of both worlds. Power when I want it and better mileage.

Any input is much appreciated..
 
Not sure, I assume its stock for 1967. The block hasn't been built yet. I figure this is the time to plan the build and follow through.
For now, the bottom end is stock as are the heads. The engine is out of the car while the body is being prepped for the body shop.

Worse case, I buy a Ford crate motor and install the blower.
 
Confirm that before you go to far. I am running 9.0:1 compression with my blown 331. I would say that build a good street engine now and use a cam that could be used with a blown application. Have you got a cam yet? If not I would suggest talking with Jay Allen of Camshaftinnovations.com. He knows his stuff and can help you select complimentary parts to build a solid engine. I have a feeling that the FE would be plenty of engine for one of these cars. I know that I give up some driveability with the blower on my car.

If I were you I would not overlook using a 302/351 small block based stroker for a blown application. Real estate is very limited when you start adding a blower and want to keep it under the hood. I can't imagine the space limitations you would run into with a blown FE. Here is a picture of my engine compartment with my 331. As you can see there isn't much space.

IMGP2456.jpg

IMGP2457.jpg
 
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Yeah unless you plan on tubbing the car out with some super wide tires, you'll never see the potential of that blown FE on the street due to traction issues. It's hard enough keeping traction with a blown small block!
 
I can give you some perspective from personal experience.

Number one, big blocks are torque monsters. They are not designed to run higher RPMs. Putting a centrifugal supercharger on one doesn't make a lot of sense. If you stroke it and add one you are really on the wrong path. Now if you go roots or twin-screw (I've gone this route) it is a different story. These "blowers" are all about low end torque. Twin-screws in particular will serve well from just off idle all the way to 6k+ RPM. Stroker with one of these and you will need ridiculous sized rubber to have any chance at traction.

So...

If you go centi or turbo you're best off with a stock stroke with maybe larger bore so you can wind it up. Since FE engines aren't really meant to see higher RPM I would lean toward a 351 bored and maybe lightly stroked to something like a 393. Or, bore and stroke the BB and have a GREAT time on the street with it sans any type of forced induction. At the end you'll have about the same type of power.

Really comes down to how you will use the car.
 
Turbo's are an excellent power adder, but the install and maintenance of items (over time) around the turbo and piping would be difficult.

if the bottom end is built to handle the RPM's then I don't see a issues with a centrifugal blower. I really want to keep the engine under the hood vs. cutting a hole for a blower and carbs. In a carb'd application, a centrifugal blower will fit well (under the hood).

This is an engine I'll have for a while and likely put quite a few miles on. At this point I'm thinking about a stout stroker crate motor.

Any suggestions for a big block crate motor?
 
"Wrench" said:
Any suggestions for a big block crate motor?
Click to expand...

Call Keith Kraft. He builds a ton of FE engines for the cobra replica crowd and comes very well recommended.
 
That's a lot of compression for a blower application. Ideally you would have no more than something around 9:1.
 
The nice people around here have been very nicely trying to steer you in the right direction.

I'm not one of those people.

You're freaking nut's.

A blown stroked big block in a classic Mustang?

Okay, let's do it!

1. Buy this:

http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-107-eliminator-i-chassis-kits.aspx


2. Buy this:

http://www.cachassisworks.com/cac_gBar.html


3. Buy this:

http://www.cachassisworks.com/cac_gStreet_coilover.html


Do approx. $10-20K worth of fab work to get what was the old twist like a pretzel unibody built around the new chassis and front/rear suspension....

.... and another $10k on little things like brakes, transmission, rubber, wheelie bars and a parachute....

.... and then start looking for a $10k 600+ HP motor that we can help you find a blower for that will allow you to.....


If I stroke the block, I assume my mileage will be far less. A ProCharger will have have the best of both worlds. Power when I want it and better mileage.
Click to expand...

.....have the best of both worlds, power and fuel economy.
 
I wouldn't supercharge with that much compression either. In the case of the crate motor it would be just the motor. Didn't mean to mislead anyone and no nitrous either.

If it was a blower motor, it would be 8psi on a locally built motor.

My SVT has 638hp at the rear wheels (runs 18psi on the street), just wanted to bring that HP to a classic but its not going to work without fuel injection and a 6 speed. Wanted to stay carb'd because its a classic.
Maybe inglese induction on a stroked motor will flip my lid. :weas

 
to bring that HP to a classic but its not going to work without fuel injection and a 6 speed
Click to expand...


I'm all in favor of more HP. More is always better than less, but only up to a certain point. The "point" in this case is the weakest link and that's the chassis. The unibody design of the classic Mustang can only take so much torque before there are noticable negative effects.

Darreld owns the blown 331 stroker red '68 'vert magazine quality car and has chimed in on this thread. He also recently posted an awesome video of his car being painted. Check out the video I believe over in the Paint and Body section.... and then ask Darreld in a PM how much this paint/body work cost.... and then ask him to send you some pictures of where the paint has cracked from his car's chassis flexing.

Ask 10 people who've put high HP/TQ motors into a classic mustang and you'll likely get the same response from every one of them: I wish I'd have thought it all out and focused more on strengthening the chassis.

600 HP is too much IMO.... moreso from a higher TQ producing big block engine. Anything over 400-450 and you're setting yourself up for problems. The design technology in these almost 50 year old chassis's is not anywhere near as strong as your more modern SVT. Without extensive chassis strengthening the body of the car will literally "twist" under load.
 
A little more to think about.

I upgraded my 02 Roush mustang with a beefier bottom end and a Kenne Bell twin-screw (this is the one all the Cobra guys upgraded too as well, albeit slightly larger). I also did some minor suspension tweaks to help it hook a bit better. Still could never get it to stick completely at launch but took down quite a few pullied Cobras at the strip routinely. They all had big dyno numbers too.
My current project should eat its lunch when done. 65 fastback mini-tub, eight point and 351w based engine.
You don't need huge cubes and massive boost to get the job done. There are hundreds (thousands?) of fox bodies running 302's hitting low tens and nines every day. Lots of 'em tooling around town during the week.
Dave is dead on. Get the chassis right first. All the torque in the world won't do you a bit of good if it is wasted flexing the car.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Darreld owns the blown 331 stroker red '68 'vert magazine quality car and has chimed in on this thread. He also recently posted an awesome video of his car being painted. Check out the video I believe over in the Paint and Body section.... and then ask Darreld in a PM how much this paint/body work cost.... and then ask him to send you some pictures of where the paint has cracked from his car's chassis flexing.
Click to expand...

Dave, my car is really a Transformer. It folds in half and turns into a boat. I don't really want to own a boat so I am adding a brace to the bottom of the car (in addition to sub-frame connectors) to stop it from twisting as much. I'll never get rid of all the body flex but it should make it much less destructive once my mods are done.
 
Darreld,

How is your roll bar tied into your subframe? Welded to a plate that is welded to the floor or is it more structurally interconnected? Is it attached up high to the inner quarter structure? If not, that would certainly give you some more chassis rigidity.
 
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