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Anyone Have the Torque Specs for Alum Manif Install?

DEL65

Of The Morons
I'm finally getting around to installing my 4v manifold. Can I ask for the torque specs? IIRC, it is done in 2 or 3 steps. Thanks a bunch.
 
Instructions for my Stealth were 10, 15, and finally 25 lb.ft. for the inner 8 bolts leaving the ends at 15 so as not to break the casting ears
 
I have always hand tightened snug, being very careful with the overhang bolts.

I have also always found that after the manifold has had a few runs you need to re-tighten the bolts.

You don't have to be too anal with these bolts.
 
"pprince" said:
I have always hand tightened snug, being very careful with the overhand bolts.

I have also always found that after the manifold has had a few runs you need to re-tighten the bolts.

You don't have to be too anal with these bolts.

+1 with a butt load of silicone.

Mel
 
I dip the bolt threads in oil and oil the washers so I get an accurate torque reading. IIRC, torque in 3 steps up to 26lbs on all bolts, follow the torque sequence. I go light on the silicone, except on the front and back where silicone is the gasket. I hope your garage is heated!

Robert
 
Well, I think pprince stated it when he said "You don't have to be too anal with these bolts." Of course Mel just had to make a reply back with a "butt load" comment. The direction some of these posts go.......gesshhhh !!
 
"pprince" said:
oh boy, what did I start?

When are you going to learn that you are dealing with a bunch of juveniles in this place. :nut

Since I am here may I make one little suggestion when it comes to installing the intake. I like to install some all thread rod at the corners. That way when I sit the intake in place it goes right on the money.

fd
 
I should of known some of you would take that wrong....It didn't dawn on my until just a few minutes ago when I got back on the computer.

Ok, I thought the OPs question was addressed pretty well so I didn't elaborate. Use the silicone on the ends and I use a bunch and have never had one leak! Make sure you allow it to squeeze out evenly then if you want a clean look you can wait for it to dry and trim it up. I use the clear stuff on the intakes.

I like the Fel-Pro gaskets.

Sheesh, you guys!

Mel
 
"cmayna" said:
That's what my wife says.......


I was gonna say something along that line but figured it would cause people to cry.
 
Attempting to be somewhat serious for a change (new year resolution BS), I wonder if I should go back and check the bolts on Shag's alum intake for since I fired the motor up, I don't think I have checked them.
 
Someday I'll get used to the fact that whenever I start a thread on this site, it always devolves to 'butt' and 'stud' posts. The creativity is surprising. :thu

Thanks for the torque numbers and Robert's tip to lube up the new, hard, studly studs in oil. I'm using the felpro intake gaskets. I tossed the front and rear cork ones, and instead I'll use the RTV silicone stuff to seal that up. SAC69 loaned me 4 guide pins so I can accurately drop the manifold onto the gaskets. Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes.

Progress so far:
intake3.jpg

intake1.jpg

intake2.jpg
 
Looks good so far. Make sure all the mating surfaces are super clean and free of oil or water. I have seen but never done it, that there is a paint type coating for the valley you can use and it will help with the recirculation of the oil. Mind you I have never done it, so I have no personal experience.

Top end stuff is super easy and it isn't a bad place to get the "While you are at it" syndrome.

Mel
 
"guruatbol" said:
Looks good so far. Make sure all the mating surfaces are super clean and free of oil or water. I have seen but never done it, that there is a paint type coating for the valley you can use and it will help with the recirculation of the oil. Mind you I have never done it, so I have no personal experience.

Top end stuff is super easy and it isn't a bad place to get the "While you are at it" syndrome.

Mel

I'd strongly advise against doing that. . .

Robert
 
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