• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Big brake kit for small wheels

Shaun

Member
A good customer of mine over in France was complaining about the Porsche's in his vintage racing group out-braking him. He has been using the stock 65-66 Kelsey Hayes 4 piston brakes. He needs to stick to 15" wheels to be legal but wanted more brake.

I decided to have a go at building the uber giant Boss 302 Trans-Am system for him. They used a 11" something rotor from a Lincoln pressed onto a drum hub and a 67 Tbird caliper. I'm using the same caliper but went with a 2pc 12" x 1.25" rotor mounted to an aluminum hat. This weighs a few pounds less than the all iron version. I'm supplying him with some Porterfield R4 pads for the track.

I'm pretty geeked that it all turned out ok. I'm even more amazed it actually fits inside a 15x7 Torqe Thrust D!

Waddaya think?

trans-am3.jpg



On the left is the base rotor in the 11.25" kit, right is the 12" mofo. The aluminum hat really helps save weight. The 12" rotor complete with hub and studs weighs 3lbs LESS than the smaller 11.25" rotor with integral hub/studs.
trans-am_rotor.jpg


trans-am_rotor5.jpg


trans-am4.jpg


trans-am5.jpg


trans-am6.jpg


trans-am7.jpg


trans-am8.jpg


Thanks to all the forum guys and vintage racers that helped me out with this project!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A

Anonymous

Guest
Looks awesome Shaun!!!! Now I know where I can get replacement rotors.

What are you going to sell that setup for?
 

Shaun

Member
"silverblueBP" said:
Looks awesome Shaun!!!! Now I know where I can get replacement rotors.

What are you going to sell that setup for?

Thanks Mark and thanks for all your help!

Full, complete 'turn-key', vintage legal kit includes:

Calipers with cross over tubes, street pads, stainless steel hold down clips and grade 8 mounting hardware
2pc heavy duty, 36 directional vane 12" x 1.25" rotors with aluminum hats. Shipped fully assembled and safety wired
Hubs with standard length studs. Timken bearings and seals. Dust caps, keyed washers, nuts and cotter pins
Braided steel flex hoses with all fittings to mount to stock hardlines
Caliper mounting brackets with grade 8 hardware

Price - $1799 - thats everything in 2 boxes with no parts for you to source or modify to make it work.

All components are available separately for those creative guys that like to fiddle. :cool:

Porterfield R4 racing pads, duct plates, rotor stress releiving (heat treating), ARP studs, 15x7 TTD wheels also available.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Where were you 8 years ago when I bought my parts????

That's a good deal on some awesome brakes! and to think, I just bought new rotors 2 months ago.

Are you going to list the separate parts on your site?
 

garner67

Active Member
Great work, Shaun!!!

I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to fabricate a brake ducting outlet mount for my car, and I really like what you've done with this setup. Is that brake duct outlet a part you sell separately? If yes, would it work with a 70 spindle and Baer brake kit?

trans-am5.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Shaun

Member
"garner67" said:
Great work, Shaun!!!

I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to fabricate a brake ducting outlet mount for my car, and I really like what you've done with this setup. Is that brake duct outlet a part you sell separately? If yes, would it work with a 70 spindle and Baer brake kit?

trans-am5.jpg

That is a piece from Cobra Auto. I have made them in the past from sheet stock and 3" muffler tubing but I have so much else going on right now I bought it. My customer paid me the $150 for it which is what CA charge. I paid to have it shipped here so I could ensure it all worked on his setup before I ship the complete system to him. I've already sent him all the ducts for the valance and hose.

The CA one won't work on a Baer system as the Baer caliper sits right where the outlet is. I actually prefer the Baer caliper location when building ducting as you have a much straighter shot for the hose. You could hack the CA piece if you didn't want to weld like this:

baer8.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Shaun

Member
"Fast68back" said:
Man that is a beefy looking caliper!! I like it. Can you get the rotors drilled and slotted as well?

I can drill OR slot the rotors, not both on this particular rotor. I wouldn't do this for a track car though. Don't want anything that could possibly start a crack.
 

Shaun

Member
"silverblueBP" said:
Where were you 8 years ago when I bought my parts????

That's a good deal on some awesome brakes! and to think, I just bought new rotors 2 months ago.

Are you going to list the separate parts on your site?

Mark,

I'll probably get the parts online, if you need anything but don't see it, just ask.
 

garner67

Active Member
"Shaun" said:
That is a piece from Cobra Auto. I have made them in the past from sheet stock and 3" muffler tubing but I have so much else going on right now I bought it. My customer paid me the $150 for it which is what CA charge. I paid to have it shipped here so I could ensure it all worked on his setup before I ship the complete system to him. I've already sent him all the ducts for the valance and hose.

The CA one won't work on a Baer system as the Baer caliper sits right where the outlet is. I actually prefer the Baer caliper location when building ducting as you have a much straighter shot for the hose. You could hack the CA piece if you didn't want to weld like this:

baer8.jpg

$150 for those mounts?!... CA gear definitely doesn't come cheap, does it.

Thanks for the pic. The hose outlet mount doesn't look too complicated. I think I'll try to build my own.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Shaun

Member
"garner67" said:
$150 for those mounts?!... CA gear definitely doesn't come cheap, does it.

Thanks for the pic. The hose outlet mount doesn't look too complicated. I think I'll try to build my own.

Sorry, rewind. $110.

Still spendy. If you have the time make your own. Go buy a foot of 3" muffler pipe, some flat stock and get cutting/welding! You'll want to cut the flat stock in such a way as it blocks off the backside of the rotor, forcing any air out through the rotor vanes. Some would argue don't allow any air to contact the rotor face as this will cool the inside of the rotor quicker than the outside and cause issues. The CA plates don't do this and I haven't heard of any issues...
 

Shaun

Member
I spruced up the caliper finish with a chemical and heat (to 900 degrees F) coating. Let me know what you think:

trans-am9.jpg


trans-am10.jpg


trans-am11.jpg


trans-am12.jpg
 

fordrule

Member
just wonder if the calipers the F33 will work and they use the same rotor hats as the willwood if im not mistaken..the size are 12.19 IIRC and they will fit under 16 in wheels ... just need a bracket to mount. i dont remember what the mounting on them are. but I know that they are similiar to the willwood but very light..
 

Shaun

Member
"fordrule" said:
just wonder if the calipers the F33 will work and they use the same rotor hats as the willwood if im not mistaken..the size are 12.19 IIRC and they will fit under 16 in wheels ... just need a bracket to mount. i dont remember what the mounting on them are. but I know that they are similiar to the willwood but very light..

Thanks. The purpose of this kit is to replicate the Boss 302 Trans-Am kit of the late 60's with modern rotors. Most vintage groups I know of will require a cast iron caliper...

I already have aluminum caliper kits for those that don't need to be legal.
 

Starfury

Well-Known Member
i just stumbled onto this thread, and WOW! That's friggin awesome! I'll definitely have to keep this in mind for the future.

Do you know how the composite rotor design fares on the street? Several big vehicle mfg's (ie GM) tried that years ago and ended up with a lot of cars with excessive runout after a few thousand miles. A little different design, but I'm still curious.
 

Shaun

Member
"Starfury" said:
i just stumbled onto this thread, and WOW! That's friggin awesome! I'll definitely have to keep this in mind for the future.

Do you know how the composite rotor design fares on the street? Several big vehicle mfg's (ie GM) tried that years ago and ended up with a lot of cars with excessive runout after a few thousand miles. A little different design, but I'm still curious.

I've not heard of the OE issue with it but they probably dropped it due to cost. It is 3-4 times more expensive for me to run a 2 pc rotor than a 1pc. The performance gains are worth it to they guy that wants to pay for it.

All the big aftermarket brake companies offer a 2pc rotor, StopTech, Baer etc as well as OE's like Porsche and Ferrari. No issues with rotors.
 
Top