• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Boom's 68 fastback

I know i'm a couple months late to the derailing party but hey...why not. I went through the same transmission evaluation that you guys did. I was initially going to go with the Astro T5 as I'd driven a car (early 90's Mazda Rx7 with a 351w...it was AMAZING!) with one and it felt pretty natural to me. That is until I had a chance to see a T5 case next to a TKO case. The selling point to the TKO for me was how much thicker the TKO case was. I'm not sure if my 408w is going to have enough oomph to destroy a case but, having experienced a catastrophic case failure before, I dont want to chance it.
Btw...the TKO, for me at least, is going to require some time learning it. It shifts...different...than a T5.

I'm going to follow your wiring closely. I plan to run mine in the fenders as well. I'm anxious to see how you do it. Are you planning on putting them in conduit or something to protect them? You putting your battery in the trunk?
 
I almost definitely going to go with a TKO when I get to that point.

I am putting the battery in the trunk. I ordered some wire covering from Painless. It's very nice, but it's quite pricey. I'm also looking into techflex. I'm going to need quite a bit more covering to do the whole harness.

I'm slowed down a bit due to not having all the proper parts I want to be in the car yet like the Ididit column and the gauge cluster. So I really can only run the wires to the basic area and then have to stop on that section.

My main focus this weekend is to get the floorpan and rear wheelwell area on the drivers side cleaned up so I can put on the POR15. Second task is to get the main harness branches routed and secured using P-clips and such.
 
Not much to update. I have the front light wires coming through the firewall into the fender well, secured with some clamps to the shock tower cover bolts. Covered with painless classicbraid.

20170725_194826 by Brett, on Flickr

I'm currently sanding the new floor pans and trans tunnel down and coating with POR15. Once thats done I'll start running the wiring further.
 
I got the interior completely coated with POR-15. I also used the internal frame coating to get down inside the A and B pilalrs. Need to do the ceiling, plan to hit it with some rust encapsulator and then primer. Then the entire interior will be done.

20170802_183549 by Brett, on Flickr

I also finally sanded down the cowl area and hit that with some primer. It was a pain getting around all the slots in the vents.

20170802_183504 by Brett, on Flickr

I'm waiting on some techflex 6 wire braid covering to come in so I can continue with the wiring harness install.

I also went ahead and ordered the brackets from MTF to mount an Ididit column.
 
Last edited:
Speaking of the cowl vents.....how does one get paint in there without cutting it open? I've seen so many nice cars with noticeable over spray in the cowl vent opening and it just doesn't look good..

I was thinking some sort of straw attachment like WD-40 that can get the paint in there better.
 
blu67 said:
Speaking of the cowl vents.....how does one get paint in there without cutting it open? I've seen so many nice cars with noticeable over spray in the cowl vent opening and it just doesn't look good..

I was thinking some sort of straw attachment like WD-40 that can get the paint in there better.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure, I wouldn't think a straw attachment would provide a good spray pattern, I'm sure there's a way. Might be worth asking someone like Rich at MTF. He would know I bet.
 
I was thinking about possibly an airbrush. I think just painting it black inside should hide darker paints and the nozzle of the airbrush would fit nicer in between the openings....just a thought I guess....
 
I'm routing the wires through the firewall. Kind of a pain because I have to re-do some of the wiring as the things aren't going to be routed to the stock locations. For some reason AAW has the VSS wires tied in with the engine sensor wires instead of the neutral safety switch wires. I also have to reroute the alternator wire since the kit I'm using has the alternator on the driver side.
 
blu67 said:
Speaking of the cowl vents.....how does one get paint in there without cutting it open? I've seen so many nice cars with noticeable over spray in the cowl vent opening and it just doesn't look good..

I was thinking some sort of straw attachment like WD-40 that can get the paint in there better.
Click to expand...
The absolute best way I have seen done is to paint the lower portion prior to installing the upper. Aside from that, just paint through the cowl openings as best you can not being concerned about the "vent grills" and built up paint etc. Sand them away later when you come back and spray the top surface. Using a touch up gun would seem better than a full on spray gun. I think an airbrush would be too fine and become way to tedious for the result you would get.
 
Got a couple small parts in today from MTF, Billet steering column bracket and an adapter bracket to go on the firewall. These are both made to fit an Ididit column. I am looking to get the GM style Ididit column, seems to be more options and a cleaner install. I am considering getting the column tube powdercoated Grabber blue like my calipers. I have a bunch of that powder left over.

20170805_120403 by Brett, on Flickr
 
What color will the dash and interior be? Painting stuff like a column grabber blue as a stand alone isn't the best of looks. At least in this guys opinion.
e742_3.jpg
 
Yikes, I was planning kind of a satin black for the dash bits with the aluminum 67 deluxe trim. Maybe the satin black column I had for plan B is a better choice.

Looking at it now, a grabber blue column would stick out a bit...

1967-mustang-fastback-gt-s-code-390-09.jpg
 
I've got most of the main wiring harness installed and ran to the various areas. Its really hard to get it run perfectly without having all the bits that the wires actually go to. I was expecting that running the wires down thru the A-pillar/door jamb was going to be a huge pain but it was easy.

Going to be installing the rear portion here pretty soon.
 
Got tired of messing with the wiring harness, So I worked on getting the Repro driver's door ready. Almost everything looked great until I went to mount the new hinges using the old bolts. Then I found out the plate in the repro door had a different thread somehow. I checked the thread of the original bolt, 5/16-18. SO I drilled and tapped the holes to that thread, bolts still didn't work. Son of a.... so I went and got some new flange bolts from Home Depot. Problem solved it seems. The factory bolts have a bit of unthreaded rod at the tip, I guess to help align the plate?

I also, mounted up a new latch and the rod to the interior handle so when it shuts on me when I'm fitting it.:rolleyes:

I know I'm already juggling a ton of stuff, so why not power windows? I see 2 brands: Nu-Relic and electric life. I've seen some critical reviews about the Electric life not having enough power. Just looking right now, I plan to mount the switches in the center console.
 
Welcome to repop doors :-D
I'm curious to see what you land on with the power windows. I was debating putting power in mine as well.
 
Nu-Life is so far ahead of Electric Life they aren't on the same track. I've got Nu-Relics myself but have helped put a set of the others in so firsthand experience talking.

One option you 67/68 guys have we earlier 65/66 guys don't is to lose the wing window and go to a one piece glass design. I'm a big fan of the wing but it is a pretty cool option. I guess since the 65/66 are so much better looking already it wouldn't be fair to let us do this too. :D
 
I looked at the one piece door windows previously, it would save me the cost of re-chroming the vent windows, but the one piece unit had some issues if I recall. I'll look into it some more.

The more I research the power window option, the more positives things I hear about Nu-relic over Electric life.
 
I looked into the one piece windows. They look nifty, but to quote another forum where people bought the kit:

"Their after sales service was about as useful as a dick flavored lollypop."
https://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=19021.0

Supposedly they have revised the kit. I don't want to be the guinea pig though. Also, it mentions in the instructions that their kit only works with manual regulators, so no power windows. Plus, there's the fact you have to hack up your doors to install it.


In other news, I noticed where Fitech has updated some information on their website. The port EFI kit I'm going to get is Sequential, that's what I was hoping for.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top