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Brake Job

S

southern_boy

Member
How do you go through your old brakes on a classic before your first drive? I just want to have something I can be doing to keep my hands dirty on instead of saving up for a certain part, so I figured Id go through my brakes to make sure they're ok. So how do I do this?
 
You're not going to like the answer, but here goes....

The two hard metal brake lines that extend from the master cylinder to the distribution valve.... and then the three hard metal lines extending from the distribution valve to the L&R front wheelwell and the one routing to the rear axle REALLY need to be replaced before the car is driven on a daily basis. The hard line that crosses along the top of the rear axle shoudl also be changed out. These 40 year old thin wall tube hard lines are an accident waiting to happen.

I've noticed that you're posting several different questions on different areas of your car. You do understand that owning/rebuilding/maintaining a classic car is one of the largest "money pits" you'll likely encounter in your life? The only exception to this would be owning a boat or getting married. Most classic car owners spend a minimum of $20k to get their car roadworthy. You're going to be pissed after you spend every dime you've made for the next few years getting this car done only to have some HS kid in his mom's stock Nissan blow your doors off.
 
Don't forget the basic rebuild kit as well. If this car is new to you and you have no firsthand knowledge of the brake maintenance history I'd be changing out the wheel cylinders to be safe as well. Of course, I'd also be re-packing the bearings and inspecting the tie rods, ball joints, shocks, etc.

Like Dave says, it gets expensive very quickly when you are talking about getting an old car like this back on the road safely. And by safe I just mean moderately. A 60's automobile is a far cry from a modern ride.

Its awesome to hear of a younger guy getting one of these back on the road (as opposed to outfitting a Honda with a fart can and monster tach). Just want to make sure you understand what you're in for.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
You're not going to like the answer, but here goes....

The two hard metal brake lines that extend from the master cylinder to the distribution valve.... and then the three hard metal lines extending from the distribution valve to the L&R front wheelwell and the one routing to the rear axle REALLY need to be replaced before the car is driven on a daily basis. The hard line that crosses along the top of the rear axle shoudl also be changed out. These 40 year old thin wall tube hard lines are an accident waiting to happen.

I've noticed that you're posting several different questions on different areas of your car. You do understand that owning/rebuilding/maintaining a classic car is one of the largest "money pits" you'll likely encounter in your life? The only exception to this would be owning a boat or getting married. Most classic car owners spend a minimum of $20k to get their car roadworthy. You're going to be pissed after you spend every dime you've made for the next few years getting this car done only to have some HS kid in his mom's stock Nissan blow your doors off.
Click to expand...

I'm not mad for hearing this, and yes I do understand it will be one of the biggest money pits i'll encounter. I understand it get's expensive fast, ive been restoring a 1967 Mustang Coupe for the past 4 years which still isnt finnished and have put over 7 grand into it. And I still have to get the engine back in it, put the interior in it and then stereo and Paint. This is doing all the work myself minus rebuilding the engine. I even redid the seats myself. So I understand its a big money thing. It will be a good while before the Mach 1 is done I have alot of things I want to do but alot of it is gonna take some serious saving to do. Like Fuel Injection and rear disc brake conversion and possibly LED light upgrades and stereo system. I understand its time consuming and alot of Money involved but I love it. And I love the sound of old cars and the history of them. And I understand that it might not beat everything on the road. But I can try lol.
 
"Horseplay" said:
Don't forget the basic rebuild kit as well. If this car is new to you and you have no firsthand knowledge of the brake maintenance history I'd be changing out the wheel cylinders to be safe as well. Of course, I'd also be re-packing the bearings and inspecting the tie rods, ball joints, shocks, etc.

Like Dave says, it gets expensive very quickly when you are talking about getting an old car like this back on the road safely. And by safe I just mean moderately. A 60's automobile is a far cry from a modern ride.

Its awesome to hear of a younger guy getting one of these back on the road (as opposed to outfitting a Honda with a fart can and monster tach). Just want to make sure you understand what you're in for.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the input and I also appreciate that yall are making sure I know what I'm in for. Hm, just had a thought. Would Anti-Lock brakes be something to look into for the best safety I could get? Even though I know it'll be more money. But a gearhead friend of mine told me. There used to be a sign on the old Mechanic Shop walls everywhere that used to say:

You can have 2 of the 3 things below:
Cheap
Safe
Fast

But you cant have all three.
 
ABS is not necessary and certainly not just costly but would require a lot of electronic parts integration and know-how. Addition of front discs is all that you really need to get adequate stopping power to make you feel safe.
 
"southern_boy" said:
But a gearhead friend of mine told me. There used to be a sign on the old Mechanic Shop walls everywhere that used to say:

You can have 2 of the 3 things below:
Cheap
Safe
Fast

But you cant have all three.
Click to expand...

This is from the original quote from Red Adair, who was a world-famous oil well fire fighter. He said:

"I can do it well,
I can do it cheap,
I can do it fast.

Pick any two."
 
If your funds are limited, rear discs would be the last thing on my mind. Front discs and rear drums were on GT350R race cars, so THERE you go.
 
"hivewax" said:
If your funds are limited, rear discs would be the last thing on my mind. Front discs and rear drums were on GT350R race cars, so their you go.
Click to expand...

+1

Too many of us with vintage cars have discs only up front and it works just fine. You are no exception. Find some other place to spend your buck.
 
Finding the place to spend the money isn't the problem, the question is which one first? haha, And I figured fuel injection and Headers and Exhuast would be the last thing on my mind?
 
Yeah, safety first. Check the brake fluid... make sure it's not brown. check the lines, pads, and hoses. then, check brake pressure. Test drive at 5mph.
 
Test Drive is a little far fetched at the moment, Im still working on getting it running again, like I said I just want something to keep my hands dirty with lol. Im considering either buying 2 sets of jack stands or two sets of those ramps that way I can have plenty of room to work underneath as well.
 
I'd get 4 jack stands and a heavy duty hydraulic jack at Harbor Freight instead. Ramps suck IMO. They'll either move, bend, or break.
 
"southern_boy" said:
...have put over 7 grand into it. And I still have to get the engine back in it, put the interior in it and then stereo and Paint.
Click to expand...

If that's your build order, let me change the direction of this thread a tad and say you need to rethink what you're doing.

Paint should "Ideally" go on a car that is basically disassembled. No interior, no drivetrain(engine, tranny, rear), no suspension, no Trim. Doors off, fenders off, trunk and hood off. There are LOTS of places that paint needs to go that it won't be able to go if your car is 100% intact. This becomes especially true if you're changing colors.

YES Maaco and collison shops and other places will spray your car with it all together, and to be honest, if your car is *that kind* of car, there can be a decent paint job (note I said decent, not great, not impressive, not wonderful) had at a shop like that. But you've invested a lot of money and time into your car thus far...I'd hate to see you do this part wrong.

Now let me point out, I'm doing my car "wrong" too. Why? Because that's all my time/budget/garage space/tools/know-how will allow me to do at this time. I'm taking my beater car, upgrading the suspension brakes, warming the engine a little, and letting it hunt as a "rat." My line is "I want people to laugh when they see me coming, and cry when they see me leavin'"

But I'm doing it this way because my GOAL is not a restoration, or a resto-mod. My GOAL is to get my high-school car back on the road SOMEWHAT reliable, and able to take off like a scalded dog, handle like it's on rails, and stop on a dime. If it's got beatup seats, or rust spots on the front fenders? So what. The only guy whose opinion I REALLY care about is the one sitting in the driver's seat, and when I'm there I won't be able to see that crappy paint or those rust spots :)

I will do it "right" someday...but that day ain't today, and if I was trying to do it right now I'd get frustrated and quit. So I do what I can to keep the car in my life.

I'm getting distracted...my point is: If your engine is out, and your interior is out, and you have a paint-job in the plans...consider painting it BEFORE the engine and interior are back in.
 
"hivewax" said:
I'd get 4 jack stands and a heavy duty hydraulic jack at Harbor Freight instead. Ramps suck IMO. They'll either move, bend, or break.
Click to expand...

+∞

Ramps are worthless. Get a GOOD floor jack (not the cheap one for 30 bucks at autozone that comes with 2 1ton JackStands) and 4 good jackstands. Buy as big as you can afford. Heavy capacity, tall lift, and a BIG WIDE foot print. You will use them ALL the time.
 
Its going to be the same original color, but I figured paint would be best saved for last considering i still have to put the engine back in and it would be in the cars/paint jobs best interest to wait till after i have the engine safely back in place and in working order before painting just in case of mishaps
 
Your point about worrying about mishaps putting the engine back in are well founded...just understand you're compromising the quality of a paint job you can get when you paint an intact car.
 
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