Camber and shim placement from scratch with Shelby drop.

[spitse]

So I am close to having swapped out old suspension and steering parts for new OEM parts. I also did the Shelby drop. I’m going to try and get my alignment as close as I can before taking to someone else, if needed.

Here’s my problem and it is due to ignorance. When I pulled out my upper control arms, all the shims went everywhere so I don’t even have a clue as to what was done on the old set up. I do know from threads exposed there was a pretty good difference between each bolt. One had a lot of threads and the other was close to being even with the end of the bolt.

Is there a way to get a rough estimate on alignment before I get everything back on for the real alignment? Like is there a rule of thumb or rough measurements of the control arm vs something else so I can get close on shims needed front bolt vs back bolt as a starting point? I would think the Shelby drop would impact the number of shims needed overall.

I don’t know the history of the car and would not be surprised over its life there have been impacts of what ever kind that result in the space not being true.

So any help is welcome. Let me know if I am totally off in my thinking. I don’t want to be chasing a problem created by my stupidity.


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[Midlife]

There is no rule of thumb, as each car is different. You can buy a relatively inexpensive alignment tool ($60-70) and do your own alignment. I used something similar to this device: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Economy-Caster-Camber-Suspension-Gauge-Tool,2699.html

 

[Horseplay]

The shims vary car to car, side to side even, simply because the bodies were not assembled in some laser guided jig. Stuff is crooked, misaligned, etc. Setting up from scratch is not hard. Varies a little depending on year as the early 65/66 did not have an eccentric to adjust the lower arm but the upper works the same.

What I did was put an 1/8" shim behind each upper stud and then measure where I was at to start. Using a shim to start like this gives you the ability to go in or out by adding or reducing the shim thickness. Less is more in terms of where you want to end up. I was able to use next to no shims on mine which keeps the tire in as much as possible. Helps with tire clearance as you lower the body. If you have a later car with the lower eccentric you should kind of center its adjustment as well to start. You can use something like the tool Mid shows or get one of these that I and others here have to do the measurements.

https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-91000-FasTrax/dp/B000PG6OW2/ref=asc_df_B000PG6OW2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14792518620187472076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021702&hvtargid=pla-570966139873&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63790029762&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14792518620187472076&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021702&hvtargid=pla-570966139873

Doing the full alignment at home is not hard. Just take your time and it will work out. Probably better than expecting a modern shop to do it right. Experiences may vary but most find the new places haven't a clue and fail to do it right or even at all.