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Catalytic Converts

Are those deposits at the tip of the electrode and around the perimeter of the threads. From what I've read elsewhere, those are the result of a rich idle mixture.

Standing behind the car while idling is what he said smells like raw fuel coming from the exhaust pipes. ( earlier post )

If the ECT was truly failing, then that could be the cause for the EEC to richen up the mixture until the sensor tells the EEC the engine is warmed up.

While I agree the fuel lines could be an issue... the smell would be present all the time.

I'm curious to hear if the ECT replacement solves the problem.
 
stangg said:
Are those deposits at the tip of the electrode and around the perimeter of the threads. From what I've read elsewhere, those are the result of a rich idle mixture.

Standing behind the car while idling is what he said smells like raw fuel coming from the exhaust pipes. ( earlier post )

If the ECT was truly failing, then that could be the cause for the EEC to richen up the mixture until the sensor tells the EEC the engine is warmed up.

While I agree the fuel lines could be an issue... the smell would be present all the time.

I'm curious to hear if the ECT replacement solves the problem.
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i think what you are seeing as deposits may be anti-seize

as for the ECT, I just replaced this weekend. However, when I drove home Friday, I forgot to turn off my headlights and now my battery is dead and I haven’t had time to charge it yet this week. SMH. from everything I have read as well, hopefully that ECT will help some stuff out. Still not sure why only the left side would smell rich though. O2 sensor maybe.? Other than that, I’m almost out of ideas.
 
The car really needs to go on a sniffer, or have a wide band O2 sensor installed. You need to know if it's running rich or just not burning completely, then you can start to diagnose why.
 
Starfury said:
The car really needs to go on a sniffer, or have a wide band O2 sensor installed. You need to know if it's running rich or just not burning completely, then you can start to diagnose why.
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Ok, that’ll be the plan. So where do I take it for this mystical “sniffer”? Just any random exhaust/muffler shop? I’m in Corpus Christi and there isn’t much in the way of highly rated mechanics down here.
 
Tune shop should have something. In CA, smog check shops have sniffers, but tune shops should have wideband O2 sensors.
 
You can buy an AFR gauge kit which utilizes a clamp on piece with a bung to screw in an O2 sensor. Doesn't require welding. Personally, I'd go this route as opposed to taking it to a tuner shop. Be cheaper and you'd have a permanent gauge for monitoring your AFR. Even better, buy an O2 bung and have a muffler shop weld it in for you. Just have a cheap pipe plug to cap it off until you get back home to install the sensor and gauge.

Your plugs tell the story anyway. It's not running rich but the gauge is good to have regardless. You could be running fat but not rich enough to show on a plug. I've slowly tweaked my EFI to get the AFR into the 13+ range since starting in the low 12s. There is power there to be had if you can program for it. Need a means to monitor the AFR though.
 
Horseplay said:
You can buy an AFR gauge kit which utilizes a clamp on piece with a bung to screw in an O2 sensor. Doesn't require welding. Personally, I'd go this route as opposed to taking it to a tuner shop. Be cheaper and you'd have a permanent gauge for monitoring your AFR. Even better, buy an O2 bung and have a muffler shop weld it in for you. Just have a cheap pipe plug to cap it off until you get back home to install the sensor and gauge.

Your plugs tell the story anyway. It's not running rich but the gauge is good to have regardless. You could be running fat but not rich enough to show on a plug. I've slowly tweaked my EFI to get the AFR into the 13+ range since starting in the low 12s. There is power there to be had if you can program for it. Need a means to monitor the AFR though.
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The problem is he is running a Ford SEFI and as far as I know there isn't much out there to do your own tuning. The computer is supposed to be doing all the adjustments. So the AFR gauge may tell him that the ratio is off, but short of taking it to a shop to tune the computer there is little a home mechanic can do. Of course, this assumes the O2 sensors are installed correctly and all the rest of the components are in good working order.
 
I'm slow but not {.} level slow, Ken. I get that he likely cannot tweak the tune himself. My point was for less than a shop would probably charge him to do an "AFR analysis" of the current running condition he could probably buy and install an functional AFR gauge which would be a permanent means of monitoring how the engine is running relative to AFR. This time I'm trying to spend someone else's money more wisely!
 
I agree, purchasing an AFR sensor and gauge would be more cost effective. Always a nice tool to have.

Just because the plugs don't look black and snooty doesn't mean it's not running rich. It could be super rich at idle but fine under cruise conditions. Or it could just be timed improperly and not burning completely at idle. AFR readings will give you a place to start.
 
If it has any type of performance tune its going to be richer at idle than cruise, for sure. The plugs should have some indication of it though. Those things have color to them so they aren't super fresh and would, I think, have some indication of even just a rich idle condition. I guess what I'm saying is I think it is running normal and maybe the smell is just that fuel today has a stronger, nastier more noticeable fragrance to it. It's not like an 80s or even 90s EFI system was very refined by modern standards. Look at the compression ratio of a Coyote engine and yet that fuel management system can put out that kind of power and yet prevent detonation. That is some serious tech!

My suggestion is he just get in it and drive it like he stole it!
 
Horseplay said:
I'm slow but not {.} level slow, Ken. I get that he likely cannot tweak the tune himself. My point was for less than a shop would probably charge him to do an "AFR analysis" of the current running condition he could probably buy and install an functional AFR gauge which would be a permanent means of monitoring how the engine is running relative to AFR. This time I'm trying to spend someone else's money more wisely!
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Ass.


Mark
 
Horseplay said:
If it has any type of performance tune its going to be richer at idle than cruise, for sure. The plugs should have some indication of it though. Those things have color to them so they aren't super fresh and would, I think, have some indication of even just a rich idle condition. I guess what I'm saying is I think it is running normal and maybe the smell is just that fuel today has a stronger, nastier more noticeable fragrance to it. It's not like an 80s or even 90s EFI system was very refined by modern standards. Look at the compression ratio of a Coyote engine and yet that fuel management system can put out that kind of power and yet prevent detonation. That is some serious tech!

My suggestion is he just get in it and drive it like he stole it!
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I do. But I also want my wife to “want” get in the car as well. :)
 
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