Correct springs?

[stump]

One more time... Do these springs look correct? They were cut to lower the front, but because they allowed the tire to rub we're replacing them with 480# with a 1" drop. Could he have used 6 cylinder springs?

 

[Starfury]

Correct how? Visually? Ride height-wise?

If your tires are rubbing, don't blame the springs, blame improper wheel/tire geometry that doesn't fit under the fenders. It doesn't look like you've done the Shelby drop yet, which would help the situation by giving you negative camber at the top of suspension travel.

 

[stump]

Correct how? Visually? Ride height-wise?

If your tires are rubbing, don't blame the springs, blame improper wheel/tire geometry that doesn't fit under the fenders. It doesn't look like you've done the Shelby drop yet, which would help the situation by giving you negative camber at the top of suspension travel.

Mainly, a list to one side. I'm assuming it's because the shop mis-measured when cutting the springs. Also, the new springs have a noticeably larger diameter coil. Lots of assumptions based on pure ignorance; which also explains my having no idea what a "Shelby drop" is... Do tell.

 

[gotstang]

You can measure the free (uninstalled) height of the existing springs to determine whether or not the springs were cut poorly. When I cut my springs, I measured from the tip of the cut coil to the bottom of the flat coil. FWIW mine don't quite match, but it's only 1/8" difference IIRC.

Given roughly the same height and number of coils, a spring made out of thicker wire will be much stiffer, which sounds reasonable for 480lb springs vs ~260lb stock units.

Cut I6 springs would lower the car, but they are not all that stiff, and even after being cut, I bet they don't meet the rate of base model V8 springs. Mooshy springs are (generally) not worth a crap for handling.

The $helby drop was actually designed by a Ford engineer. It moves the upper control arm mounts down 1" and back 1/8" to correct the suspension geometry. A good template from ORP or Daze and a 1/2" drill bit will work wonders for the handling.

 

[Starfury]

Stock suspension geometry gives you positive caster at the outside wheel during cornering. Good for tire wear on a family car with bias plies that drives mostly in a straight line, not so good for handling or radial tires.

The Shelby drop (aka Arning drop, for Fred Arning, the Ford engineer) repositions the UCA to give you negative camber at the outside wheel during cornering. This keeps the tires flat on the road during cornering, which improves cornering ability. It also moves the roll center of the car, keeping the car itself flatter in corners. This is single mod is the most effective way to improve handling with the stock suspension setup, and it's free, aside from the template (if you want one) and drill bit.

At the same time, upgrading to roller perches would significantly improve ride quality as well as suspension response, which keeps the tires on the pavement rather than bouncing across it.

As far as the list goes, check to make sure the coils are both seated properly in the spring perches. If one coil isn't rotated all the way to the stop in the perch, it will affect ride height.

Also, consider leaf springs as a potential source of the problem. One sagging leaf spring can affect front ride height more than you'd think.

 

[stump]

New springs are on. I like the height and ride, and the list is gone. I'd like to check into the Shelby drop more after I get it home.

 

[Jonk67]

Here's a good write up on the Shelby/Arning drop:
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop

Be sure to drill the holes slowly, ie: don't use a corded drill at full speed, you'll dull the bits quickly.

Here's another great article by Day's that's fun reading to give you insight as to what upgrades are worth doing to a stock suspension car to improve it:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

Day sells the template and larger drill bit, John at ORP sells the template also as well as plenty of drool parts, be sure to get the right one for your year:
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/droptemplate/

Be sure to get the car aligned to the new Shelby/Arning specs vs. stock as noted in the Daze and ORP products page or it'll drive like crap at stock settings. Make sure you find a shop that will follow your printed settings and knows thier way around a vintage car.
Jon

 

[stump]

Here's a good write up on the Shelby/Arning drop:
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop

Be sure to drill the holes slowly, ie: don't use a corded drill at full speed, you'll dull the bits quickly.

Here's another great article by Day's that's fun reading to give you insight as to what upgrades are worth doing to a stock suspension car to improve it:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

Day sells the template and larger drill bit, John at ORP sells the template also as well as plenty of drool parts, be sure to get the right one for your year:
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/droptemplate/

Be sure to get the car aligned to the new Shelby/Arning specs vs. stock as noted in the Daze and ORP products page or it'll drive like crap at stock settings. Make sure you find a shop that will follow your printed settings and knows thier way around a vintage car.
Jon

Thanks, Jon!