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Craaaaap! Battery sparks, code 96, no start

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
So I disconnected my battery in order to put my chip back in. I hit the positive terminal and there were sparks EVERYWHERE! Once I got it reconnected, I ran some KOEO codes and got a code 96 (fuel pump relay something).


When I tried to start the car, I turned the key to ACC and didn’t hear the fuel pump. When I went to start, it cranked well but wouldn’t turn over.


Soooo, now why?


I took these pictures

14E01494-E2DF-4D96-92D2-589975E4C7E1.jpeg

I swapped these and it didn’t work.


B0A71117-BD4D-4B9F-98EE-EC61ED5DA9E8.jpeg


The top black box is the Fuel Pump relay (can’t pull it out). The light comes on briefly when the key in ACC but then goes out when trying start.



Is there something I have to replace? WHAT CAN I DO. It won’t startEDD212E2-5ADE-4412-B3F6-509666F8F6F9.jpeg
 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
I'd start with basics. Make sure the pump fuse is good. Next test to see if you get voltage into the fuse from the relay when it should have power. If power to the fuse make sure it routes back to the pump, etc. Of course, this is all assuming the issue is in the fuel pump circuit. Shorting the system as you did could have done damage elsewhere that is the root cause of the pump fault code.
 

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
I'd start with basics. Make sure the pump fuse is good. Next test to see if you get voltage into the fuse from the relay when it should have power. If power to the fuse make sure it routes back to the pump, etc. Of course, this is all assuming the issue is in the fuel pump circuit. Shorting the system as you did could have done damage elsewhere that is the root cause of the pump fault code.
I hate to ask this because it makes me sound dumb...but can you give me some step by step instructions for everything you mentioned?
Thank you greatly for the response.
 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
Pull the fuse for the fuel pump and visually is likely good enough but better to test with a meter. Make sure you have continuity across the fuse. If good, turn the key to "on" (not to starting position) and using a volt meter test for power where the fuse plugs into the board shown in the pic. Put the red lead in one side where the fuse plugged in and the black lead to ground. If you get voltage good. If not, put the red lead into the other fuse connection, the black to ground and see what that gives you. You should only have voltage on one of the two fuse "leg" connection points. If you do, find the juice and the fuse is good next up you have to get back to the fuel pump connection and see if the power makes it all the way back there.
 

B67FSTB

The NorCal dude from Belgium
It seems 2 relays are fried. Or is it some kind of kit ?
Take a pic of the underside of the pcb board.
And when you disconnect the battery , take the min pole first and /or only.
 
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CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) vs Fuel Pump Relay

Can anyone verify if I’m using a CCRM (pictured above) whether or not I will have a separate Fuel Pump Relay. From what I can tell, but cannot verify myself, is that the CCRM with embedded fuel pump relay takes the place of a separate FP relay
 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
No one can tell you for sure how your car is wired given that it is not a stock situation. What you can do is verify if the piece you show is sending out voltage as it should to the fuel pump via the relay and circuit of the unit itself. If you've got voltage coming out, follow that wire (physically) all the way to the pump if necessary to confirm it reaches the actual pump.

It very well could be there is more to the system as it was wired in your car. You just have to figure it out via schematics/diagrams, whatever material you may have and that might just mean tracing every wire and testing every circuit. Good news is there really isn't that much required to power the pump so not many things can be a problem.

Hell, if you think the only issue is power to the pump, I'd route a 12v line through a toggle switch straight to the pump and use it to confirm the car will start when the pump runs.
 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
The only thing I see of note on the board is discolorization on the pins of the test button but that looks like corrosion or such and not damage. Don't see that as an issue. All the fuel pump pins (at least the relay and fuse) look perfect. If you burned out a relay coil there are no visible signs of it and honestly, given the description of what happened I don't think a relay is the issue anyway.

Have you tested the fuse and pump relay for power output like first asked? You are not going to solve this mystery without doing the basic electrical troubleshooting. In a well designed electrical system protective counters are employed to limit damage in the event of electrical surges or shorts. Start there. Check all the fuses. Any circuit breakers that might exist. If you are sure the issue is limited to the fuel system that really narrows down the scope of the effort.
 

B67FSTB

The NorCal dude from Belgium
It sure looks that the fuelpump relay casing/housing is damaged in the first pics you posted.
The relay closest to the connector seems to be the fuelpump relay.
Does it smell very odd ??
Like Terry said , basic electrical troubleshouting has to be done to attack this problem properly.
Everything else is guesswork.
BTW were did the ""sparks all over" occurs ??? At the battery I guess. Elsewere ??
 
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