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Engine Build, Opinions/Votes!

I looked at hypers early in the decision process because they were lighter/cheaper,, not to be an ass or snarky ;but i did buy Forged probe pistons a long time ago there is a pic of them somewhere up there.

Still need some pointers on galley/frost plugs, leave em dry?, permatex #2? what would you all suggest? thanks.
 
"S8NS 289" said:
I looked at hypers early in the decision process because they were lighter/cheaper,, not to be an ass or snarky ;but i did buy Forged probe pistons a long time ago there is a pic of them somewhere up there.

your Probe Pistons are made of 4032 forged aluminum which is the same as my SRP pistons. those don't have the thermal expansion like the 2618 forged pistons.

it looks like your combo consists of a 3.85" stroke crank, 6.2" rod (basing that on the 6200 number on your box) and a 1.6" compression height piston? if so that's going to put your piston over 0.2" out of the hole.
 
"buckeyedemon" said:
your Probe Pistons are made of 4032 forged aluminum which is the same as my SRP pistons. those don't have the thermal expansion like the 2618 forged pistons.

it looks like your combo consists of a 3.85" stroke crank, 6.2" rod (basing that on the 6200 number on your box) and a 1.6" compression height piston? if so that's going to put your piston over 0.2" out of the hole.
the rods are standard 351W length 5.956 i don't know why the box was marked like that i had to double check the length, and i will do the same when i get the stuff back from the machine shop-i dont really trust them-. Thank you for the warning though this is my first engine build i will need all the help i can get, and i'm thankful for it too! thank you.
 
some paint pics
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"buckeyedemon" said:
just curious, but why such a small amount of lift? are you planning to run stock cylinder heads?
no i will probably buy a cheap set of aluminum heads or used, -i wanted a cam that would work well in the 2000-6500 rpm range and this one fit the bill ,and i love that drag car sound thumpr sounded good and a cheaper alternative to a custom ground cam,

cam stuff came in today- rotating assembly will be balanced thursday or friday --hopefully!
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well im glad i dont have to mess with that machine shop anymore, soaked me 300$ for the balance job/and putting the pistons on the rods.

last night i put all the rings on (first time) it turned out well - i'm really having fun putting this together myself, i really have to toot my own horn for doing almost the whole car with my 2 hands it feels good! anyway

i put the rear main seal/bearings/crank and cam in tonight i have to wait on pistons and rods because i don't have a ring compressor but im going to try to borra one in the morning.

also i found out i am missing one arp 8740 rod bolt :rant probably have to buy a whole set now!!
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did you have the shop check the crank and rods for size and roundness? the shop had to do some rework (resize) on a new set of scat rods in mine.

if the shop checked the journals i would have expected the screws to have been torqued down at one point and probably cracked loose after that. so i would really wonder how the screw got lost. was it really ever in? was it balanced like that? i would have personally wanted all the parts checked and finish machined before balancing. just like it's probably a good idea to have the final hone performed after the shop has the pistons in their hands.

that sucks you have to by another set of rod bolts though.
 
+1 ^ , i have learned a lesson, i should have known right when i took the block in that shop to turn around, i stood there for at least 20 minutes before anyone even said anything to me, the bolt was there before balancing i just didn't want to deal with the machine shop again (it's worth just buying than fighting with this guy)
 
that sucks you don't have a good relationship with your shop. i'm sure that's frustrating.


fwiw, i paid $240 to have the assembly balanced, $30 to have the flywheel/pressure plate balanced and $28 to fit the piston/pins (no heavy metal needed). so your shops costs are in line with mine for those items.
 
i have a ring comp. for tonight so i already installed 5 pistons & rods on the fifth one i noticed the rods were practically rubbing, the book i have says the rod tangs should face towards the outside of the engine.

which i did but i noticed the chamfered edge of the rods will be facing each other, i'm thinkin this book is wrong

the valve reliefs on the pistons which have no marks are towards the bottom of the bore

i need help from someone who knows what they are doing, and not to be pushy but i need it by 6-7 pm. THANK YOU
 
When you say the chamfered edges of the rod do you mean where they attach to the crank journal? If so, they face away from each other to clear the radius on the crank journal.

Robert
 
thanks 66benchcoupe,
put the pistons/rods in the right way, :hide
I also just won a weiand stealth intake - the local chevy gang lives for edelbrock, so i (childishly) stay away from the company...dumb i know.

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I also found an arp bolt for 6$ should be here by friday :thu

now for the next head scratcher, the eagle crank i bought only has one key towards the front of the crank and 2 open holes behind it

do i need 2 keys? and will it affect the balance?
 
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"S8NS 289" said:
thanks 66benchcoupe,
put the pistons/rods in the right way, :hide
I also just won a weiand stealth intake - the local chevy gang lives for edelbrock, so i (childishly) stay away from the company...dumb i know.

now for the next head scratcher, the eagle crank i bought only has one key towards the front of the crank and 2 open holes behind it

do i need 2 keys? and will it affect the balance?

No problem. I'll never buy anything from Edelbrock, so don't feel dumb. . .

Your balancer only needs one key, right? Just use what the harmonic balancer requires, that's all the machine shop used to balance your assembly.

Robert
 
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