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Fuel Starvation: UPDATE

So I installed a new Holley Red back at the fuel tank. I was too lazy to fabricate a bracket so I bought a Ron Morris one from Mustangs Plus for $30.

The instructions showed the pump centered, just like the sending unit. Well after drilling the hole for the bracket I realized there was no way my fuel filter was going to fit. Sh**.

So I go to NAPA and get a filter that had the inlet and outlet on the same side of the pump, with a built in bracket. Cost me $25 (pricey for a filter w/o a replaceable element) but whatever.

Ran the wiring through the wiring channel, out right above the trunk, and grounded it on the bracket.

BTW, I had a full tank of gas, so I had a nice gas-bath while hooking up the hoses. I know, I'm a moron, but it worked.

Theres a nice little maze of hoses now, but I got everything hooked up, took her on the highway and...

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!

She's pullin' right through 7k rpm in all gears now, even uphill. It's a relief to tackle a problem and actually get it right the first time. And because I relocated the pump, I do not expect to have to do this again!

Total cost was around $190. Took me about 6 hours including a trip to NAPA and a shower :)

$110 for the pump
$40 for the bracket
$40 for the filter, new hose clamps, new hose, etc. at NAPA

Prices include tax and shipping

Anyway, thanks for all the help and advice here. I am going to install some new rear seatbelts tomorrow so I'll snap some pictures of the whole setup while I'm under there again.

WOOHOO!
 
That's what happens every once in a while around here.....a car really gets fixed. Good going...........
 
"AzPete" said:
That's what happens every once in a while around here.....a car really gets fixed. Good going...........
Click to expand...

Holy crap, sound advice, and it worked......who woulda thunk it
 
Sounds good. One more question, though: do you have some sort of cutoff for the pump in case of an accident?
 
I actually drive my car like an old lady 99% of the time. That's why it took me over 3 years to even address this problem (that and it was worsening).

Even though I rarely break 4k rpm, it's always nice to know I could :)

When really hauling ass though I try to shift around 6500rpm. This seems to keep my right in the torque/hp sweet spot on my engine. Redline is about 7200.
 
I can't recall your particular engine specs, but are you positive of these shift points/red-line? Getting a SBF's red-line to 7200 RPM isn't easy (or cheap) and most valves are usually floating around 6k.....
 
Well I guess it depends on how you define redline.

7200 rpm is when the valve float really kicks in and the engine just won't spin any faster. I've only done this once or twice, just to see where it was. Not something I'm in the habit of doing.

But the 6300-6500rpm range seems to be right where the torque curve starts to drop off. She still pulls real hard from 6k to 6300-6500 or so. I have my shift light set at 6200 so I am sure to shift before 6500

Again I'll reiterate how rarely I do this to my engine (I sure as hell don't want to pay to fix anything), but I've done it enough to know that these numbers are correct (that is, of course, assuming my tachometer isn't off). I really only do it if and when I go to the strip (which I haven't done in many years). Best ET was 13.61
 
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