Fast68back
Guest
I bet it was wired into the courtesy light wire
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Going to take a hammer to Gertrude...
- Thread starter Kats66Pny
- Start date
Fast68back
Guest
Prolly save up some cash and get a midlife wire harness......maybe he will make you a deal on your bastardized harness to use as a teaching tool....
"AzPete" said:
Yes. The cheap horn (I saw it at AutoZone for $20) that was put in there only works if the battery is turned on and the door is open. Door closed, horn doesn't work.
Here's another picture of the horn wire going from the horn into the firewall if that helps any.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Yep, horn is a simple fix.
Fast68back
Guest
What do the horns look like? There are a couple guys on here parting out cars, if you dont have original type horns see if they can hook you up.
I know for sure it's not original type horn. Its one horn located on the left side. I can see where the original horns use to be. The wiring is still there.
I saw it hanging on the accessories shelf at the auto store and it had the same button that was duct taped to the column and same white wires and horn.
I went and looked at saw one white wire coming from the firewall inside up to the steering column to the horn button and another white wire coming from the button down to a clump of wires near the kick panel. It was taped into what appeared to be a black wire with blue line on it.
I saw it hanging on the accessories shelf at the auto store and it had the same button that was duct taped to the column and same white wires and horn.
I went and looked at saw one white wire coming from the firewall inside up to the steering column to the horn button and another white wire coming from the button down to a clump of wires near the kick panel. It was taped into what appeared to be a black wire with blue line on it.
"Fast68back" said:
I doubt there is need for a new harness. The PO just couldn't get the crappy Grant horn set-up to work and wired up the other junk. I'm sure the old wiring is still there (at least enough to patch in the right parts). Pretty funny he chose the courtesy circuit to power it. I guess in times of trouble its kick the door open and lay on the horn!
Lastly, in my never ending quest to kill off errant additions to the English language...PROLLY is not a word! Either take the time to spell out the real word (probably) or be more decisive in your directions. Sorry. Can't help myself. Ask Steve.
Fast68back
Guest
"Horseplay" said:
Take a look at the picture above and say that.... (is it ok to use multiple periods?)
"Kats66Pny" said:
You can buy original style reproduction horns (you'll need one high pitch and one low pitch.) if all else fails.
Probably the horns stopped working and the guy went for a cheap fix. I had a cheap horn on my car that didn't work when I bought it also.
What I did was put the correct horns on. I had to replace my headlight wire harness because the horn wires were missing for one of them but I had very brittle / worn wires so I needed to replace it anyway. What finally got my horn working was to replace the turn signal harness in the steering column.
The turn signal harness is about $30 and if you're taking the steering wheel off anyway....
Little by little, I've rewired my whole car. Mid gave my under dash harness a once over but everything else is a reproduction.
When I first bought my car I had all kinds of crazy electrical bugs like the park lights in front coming on when I hit the brakes. They are all fixed now.
Oh, I'm sure it has more than it's share of crap done to it. I just mean it doesn't need to be fully replaced at this time. That can be a fair amount of work and very intimidating to someone who isn't electrically inclined. Since the car runs and I assume all the lighting works (she never mentioned any problems) I would say just get it all functioning correctly and then start to make it all "right" bit by bit."Fast68back" said:
Multiple periods are one of my favorites. I highly approve of their use!
To replace the horns like originally there, I'd have to get everything. The wires that were attached to the original horns are nasty and brittle and only one still has the end connector on it. The other side was cut completely off.
The known and annoying electrical stuff:
Horn
Those little backup lights on the rear valance don't work
Light above the rear license plate doesn't work
Brake lights - 99% of the time they work, but every now and then they don't. The fix, jiggle the wires in the trunk.
Dash lights are turned on by a switch located under the dash (middle switch on the diamond plate)
as for multiple periods.. maybe it's just me and being a female, but I always say more periods are better then none at all. :lol
The known and annoying electrical stuff:
Horn
Those little backup lights on the rear valance don't work
Light above the rear license plate doesn't work
Brake lights - 99% of the time they work, but every now and then they don't. The fix, jiggle the wires in the trunk.
Dash lights are turned on by a switch located under the dash (middle switch on the diamond plate)
as for multiple periods.. maybe it's just me and being a female, but I always say more periods are better then none at all. :lol
All those back end electrical issues are fairly common on these cars. Old wires means wire breaks, corroded connections, bad grounds, etc. A little time spent tracing/testing wires will locate the issues. Not too difficult and just one of the joys of ownership. You can buy individual harness sections fairly cheaply if needed. Outside of the under-dash main harness, replacement is the ideal way to go. Not too expensive and very simple to install. Under-dash can be expensive (unless you get a reconditioned harness from Mid) and does involve a lot more. Unless you were going to switch back to stock gauges you would need to do some modifying to patch in the aftermarket set-up in the car now with a "new" harness. That's why I originally didn't suggest going that way.
"Horseplay" said:
That's what I did with mine...a harness here a harness there and pretty soon I ran out of harnesses that required replacing. It's a good way to do it because you learn a little more about the cars electrical as you go provided you start with the easier ones and work up to the under dash harness.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Kat, the steering wheel is not the only old part I have in the barn, there are more!
My original plan was to get this gauge set http://www.mpproductsstore.com/16me6gainbe.html or something that looks exactly like it.
Mark has a 66 Flea Market going on in his garage. :lol
Yea Kat, if you go up there he will show them to you. :scar"silverblueBP" said:
"Kats66Pny" said:
I think that gauge set looks cool. I need to add a tach to my car.
I had looked at the one at your link but I have my original odometer in my car and I for whatever reason don't want to part with it. Not sure why since I can't tell if the 10k on the dial is 110k, 210k, etc but I did jot down the mileage for the first fire up on the new motor in the front of my shop manual.
My buddy in the car club has a small tach that attaches to the steering column in his '67 GTO and I'm thinking of going that route instead.
If you find you need an original style gauge bezel I have one sitting under my workbench. It's just the standard '66 with four gauges and a speedo.
A
Anonymous
Guest
"70 StangMan" said:
Perv
Fast68back
Guest
That is a nice gauge cluster, fair price as well. I would think you could barely buy the gauges for that price.
