Aussie67
Well-Known Member
After market stuff always needs massaging.
Last edited:
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Had some me time
- Thread starter B67FSTB
- Start date
And sometimes you need to work it a bit once you're finished chatting it up!
Is there not dimensional information available to verify stuff like this somewhere out there?
Aussie67
Well-Known Member
There are some threads on VFM on dimensions.
www.vintage-mustang.com
Complete Floor Pan
Hey all, Just joined and could use some advice. After doing some research about replacing multiple frame parts on my 1967 coupe I decided to go with a complete floor pan. Seems like it would be easier and more accurate. Looking at this...
www.vintage-mustang.com
Everything that Bruno shouldn't do....I taught him that!
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
I took dimensions from my other fastback of which I am sure ( he is ) its straight !
Aussie67
Well-Known Member
Are you at Spa this weekend?
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Still looking of how the full floor sits/fits and how I can stretch the full floor pan in the width.
I also noticed that the tunnel support was a bit deformed. ( Due to its previous accident )
Once I know how to , I can mark everything beneath the floor and pull the floor out of the car. Drill all the holes and prepare the area with weld through primer.
Seems the tunnel has to be widthen/spread to reach the rockers.
I presume this has to be done due to the stamping of sheetmetal.
Also I think of making some relief cut front and rear on top of the tunnel.
Note , its not a dynacorn part.
I also noticed that the tunnel support was a bit deformed. ( Due to its previous accident )
Once I know how to , I can mark everything beneath the floor and pull the floor out of the car. Drill all the holes and prepare the area with weld through primer.
Seems the tunnel has to be widthen/spread to reach the rockers.
I presume this has to be done due to the stamping of sheetmetal.
Also I think of making some relief cut front and rear on top of the tunnel.
Note , its not a dynacorn part.
Aussie67
Well-Known Member
what do they say?, measure twice and cut..... keep at it.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
See #300.
You can see that the rear edge of the tunnel is bent inwards due to the stamping of that edge.
Above, it sits nearly flush with the rear part but when you look at the underside, there is a gap all around. Thats why I think I need to cut a relief cut.
In front its another story. I gonna make a wooden block that sits on the shift opening , make a center hole in it and push a thread rod through . That way I can compress the front of the tunnel and hope it fits better to the tunnel support and firewall.
You can see that the rear edge of the tunnel is bent inwards due to the stamping of that edge.
Above, it sits nearly flush with the rear part but when you look at the underside, there is a gap all around. Thats why I think I need to cut a relief cut.
In front its another story. I gonna make a wooden block that sits on the shift opening , make a center hole in it and push a thread rod through . That way I can compress the front of the tunnel and hope it fits better to the tunnel support and firewall.
Aussie67
Well-Known Member
I see what you mean. Is there any benefit is trying to make a cardboard template before making any cuts? Might help with deciding where the cut needs to be. I typically like to do a mock up before cutting.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Progress is slow , cause I don't want to make a mistake. Compressing the front of the floorpan is a good idea. Now I know I have to alter the tunnel support a bit more to the right to sit flush with the floorpan. Remember the car had a right front collision and the tunnel support got a bit of a hit I guess.
It also stretches the floorpan in its width which I need.
I made a relief cut on top on the rear of the tunnel . Better.
I mounted some hooks beneath the floorpan at the seatbel attaching point. So I can pull the floorpan outwards and backwards. I am fighting here 5mm.
Never done such things so this job will take awhile and a lot of thinking is involved of how to tackle some problems. And watching youtube of course.
It also stretches the floorpan in its width which I need.
I made a relief cut on top on the rear of the tunnel . Better.
I mounted some hooks beneath the floorpan at the seatbel attaching point. So I can pull the floorpan outwards and backwards. I am fighting here 5mm.
Never done such things so this job will take awhile and a lot of thinking is involved of how to tackle some problems. And watching youtube of course.
Some advice from a guy who is just wrapping up making the bottom half of a car from scratch. Not everything has to be or likely will be perfect. What matters most is that the body is square enough that the glass fits in, the doors can open and close with decent gaps and the thing tracks straight going down the road. If the trans tunnel is a few mm off center in some spot or the seat risers are both perfectly aligned not only will not matter but will never be noticed. Don't do it because it will drive you crazy after but if you went and started to take measurements and scrutinize your other mustang I'm willing to bet you would find all kinds of things aren't "right". These things weren't made in the manufacturing environment of modern factories.