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Help and advice for configuration chassis suspension '68 Fastback GT

A

atevres

Member
Good morning everyone.
I am preparing a list of spare parts for what concerns the chassis of my '68 Fastback GT J Code and would like to kindly have your advice and opinion.
Precise that my will be a guide for the weekend and no drag race track or speed, but having tried various Mustang '66 and '68 friends are convinced to improve as much as possible a guide that I felt really inaccurate. (with an eye to the portfolio)

This is the material that I want to install:

ROLLER SPRING PERCH
Standard Upper Control Arms
Track Lower Control Arms
Upper Control Arm Drop Template 1 "(Shelby lowering kit)
Lower Control Arm Camber Kit
Front springs 560 lbs - 1 "lower
Polyurethane Coil Spring Pads
Mustang Front Doetsch Shocks
Mustang Rear Shocks Doetsch
Adjustable Strut Rods
1 "Front Sway Bar
New Power Steering With roller idler arm
4 1/2 Rear Leaf Springs 1965-1973 Mustang Mid Eye (Lowers car 1 ")
Under Rider Traction Bars
Rear Sway Bar
Rims 15 "x 7" - 205/65/15 BFG Radial tires (if this measure can be installed with no other changes).

Can you tell me your opinion? What do you think? :confu

The parts I have seen and heard good things from you even if I'm not mistaken www.opentrackerracingproducts.com who is a member of the forum.

Thank you all for your help. :wor
 
If you are not going to track the car, I see no need for Under Rider Traction Bars and Rear Sway Bar. I would also go with the 620 front spring instead of the 560.
 
Your list of upgrades is extremely similar to what I did to my 68 fastback :thu

I agree with janschutz but also question if you need the track LCA's if you're not going to be doing any track work.

Looks like you might be getting most of your items from ORP ? :thu
 
Thank you for your feedback. :thu
The rear sway bar was thinking of mounting it to reduce the feonmeno of "rolling" of the latter.
The traction bars would indeed be a "surplus", but from traffic lights and with a little gas on the inner wheel bouncing Fastback 289 of a friend of mine, I am perplexed. With the TBARS believed to eliminate this, at a cost of $ 100-115 that is not an expense then so high.
In this way it also improves grip in acceleration?

I'm really useless?

How do you feel with your cmayna similar configuration? What did you do exactly?

I of those friends, the thing that left me puzzled is that the abrupt change of direction the car feel very calmly, and in a medium-range curve 40-60 mph, continuous correction of equipment steering wheel to the steering geometry. ..

I think that what I expected to improve the handling (to hear you in the forum and other forums) and also the length of the elements. :steer

Thank you all! :wor
 
"atevres" said:
Track Lower Control Arms
New Power Steering With roller idler arm
Under Rider Traction Bars
Rear Sway Bar
Rims 15 "x 7" - 205/65/15 BFG Radial tires (if this measure can be installed with no other changes).
Click to expand...

I tend to agree with most of what has been said, i have a good bit of this on my '67 Coupe. For a street car the Moog LCA are good (John and others sell these). Check with John at ORP on what you may not need, he will not sell you something you don't need.

I have read that using the roller idler arm with PS may cause the steering to not self center after a turn as there is too little resistance at center but John can answer that.

Try the 4 1/2 leaf springs before installing traction bars, the extra 1/2 leaf is forward and supposed to help with wheel hop on accel. I used these and also installed Energy poly bushings front/rear in the leafs to control sway which may also eliminate the need for rear sway bar on street car. Just be sure to lube them liberally, I didn't have any squeeks in the year that I drove it.

I have 560 1" drop springs in front and they are perfect for me so far, street car with some onramp/off ramp fun and KYB GR2 gas shocks, they have not felt soft and ride nicely. Ride quality with 560 or 620 is subjective and will also be affected by shock choice (gas, HD gas, etc.), what feels fine to others may feel like a rough ride to you.

What backspace on the rims? This will determine tire sizes you can use. I probably could have fit 215/60/15 with 15X7 and 3.75" bs but had to roll my fender lips for 225/60/15 to keep from just scraping the bulge of the tire. As mentioned I'm running 1" drop 560 front springs w/Shelby 1" drop and 4 1/2 leaf mideye springs in rear. These cars aren't very exact for tire fit measurements from one to the next so take all info. on tire fit with a grain of salt.

PS: Must be great to have a Mustang to drive in Italy, I went to Venice and other parts of Italy in 2011, wish I would have seen a mustang driving around, beautiful country you have.
Jon
 
I'd stick with the 560's JIC you need to cut a coil to get the stance your looking for. 620's cut a coil and you've got a really stiff ride IMO.

Bill
 
I did 4.5 mid eye leafs on back, 620 coils up front with 1/4 coil cut. Yes the arning drop as well. 1 1/8 front sway bar.
 
Not sure I would use a rear sway bar with traction bars, may cause issues. I'd add a 1 1/8" front sway bar. Also the roller arm may cause problems. Color me weird but I like using the old soft rear leaf springs with a very good shock. I also would opt for a quick ratio steering box if you don't have one and add sub frame connectors.
 
First of all I want to thank you for your courtesy in responding, and for all your advice.
Summarizing all I advised not to install traction bars and sway bar in the rear, because unnecessary in my case and probably also in conflict with one another.
Ok so I will not will install traction and sway bar to the rear axle, I consider very important your advice.
I understand that to harden a bit the rear (as recommended Jonk67) install leaf spring front and rear polyurethane can help a lot.
I will ask Jhon ORP kit which I recommend with leaf spring for lowering 1 "to 4 1/5 sheets.
For front I will recover all power steering components I already have, sandblasted and painted.
Will replace upper and lower control arm with the bearing of ORP.
I will make the change for Shelby upper control arm and install the coil spring rollerized.
I want to lower it to the front springs 1 "without cutting the original. I found springs lowered 1" only 620 lbs, you can tell me where to find the sweetest of 560?
The wheels do not want to make any changes and spacer, not crazy to find the right path. I want to buy the '68 styled steel accents with which I find great, but 15 "diameter for a more precise direction, and mount the BFG radial red line from 205/65/15. This gives me even more choice when it will replace the with other tires, and will be easier to find here in Italy this measure (here it is almost impossible to find 205/14).
Continue to send me tips, I would make the 'order for this month and I want to thanks to you to decide exactly what to mount.

For Jonk67: you have been to Venice! Beautiful .. My father was born in Venice .. I live an hour at 20 km and I go there very often. L 'Italy is a beautiful country but our politicians and banks are ruining it!
If you think back to Italy let me know that we can see (open invitation to all) and accommodate you in the best way. If you will be in 2014 I think I can make my dream of showing you Fastback running on our roads! :steer
Meanwhile, I'll show you the Fastback my brother Henry, which I particularly like, and I must say the most beautiful here in Italy!
You dream 's Italy we dream the states .. the highway, the 'Arizona, Los Angeles, New York, I love everything about your country! From the east coast to the west coast! :steer
I'm looking for an event for the 50th anniversary of the Mustang that will fall next 04/2014 to come to the U.S. with his family. It would be nice to met some of you.

P.S. I wrote an email Jhon ORP yesterday, but I had no answer. Someone knows and can ask to look at the e-mail?

Sorry if they are not always clear about what I write using google translated, but I hope you feel all my passion for this machine, and all the gratitude and esteem for you. Thank you! :thu
 
I forgot to add that I still bought 5 months ago and I already have in the house of the subframe connectors Total Control.

P.S. another question: the steering column at the bottom theres a plastic cover that attaches with three plastic tabs on the column and makes the column as a guide (see photo below where marked with arrow). I accidentally broke two plastic tabs and over the years has become hard crystalline and crumbles. Where can I find a replacement? Else is not an alternative bearing parts?

thanks
 
I will contact John @ ORP to confirm if he received your email, but I don't know your real name? I will send you an PM shortly. If you plan to do the arning (shelby) drop, John sells the template as well.
 
Hello Craig,

Your message received, thank you!
My name is Igor Lazzari, I wrote with my mail: atevres@hotmail.com
(For those who want friendship I also facebook profile)

Thank you very much for your interest. :thu
 
We have Igor's email and are sending out a reply. Working on overseas orders takes a bit longer, sorry for the delay.
 
"Opentracker" said:
We have Igor's email and are sending out a reply. Working on overseas orders takes a bit longer, sorry for the delay.
Click to expand...


You know, if you spend less time downing all those Pat Deck burgers and get more work done.........just sayin' :roll
 
Okay, John with his kindness he replied and we're working on.

No one told me about the the steering column at the bottom theres a plastic cover :part... where you can find?
I'm planning to get it done like teflon from a friend, even if the original can lead to a problem? It seems to me a simple guide to the pinion steering.

thanks
 
Are you referring to this item?
4_15_05_10_6_26_01_0.JPG



Which I replaced mine with one of these black ones that came off a 73 Mustang?
4_15_05_10_6_28_43_1.JPG


Yes the original white ones are impossible to find. Thus I had to go with the black 73 one but it was too large in diameter so I had to cut it down lengthwise and take a portion out. Glued the two new edges back together and it fit just fine.

Installed:
4_15_05_10_6_28_44_2.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Craig put me in crisis because they do not remember seeing on my bush "B" (see image)
I was referring to the socket "A".
Strange not to have made ​​as a spare. The point at which it is located is always with the rust and many times ruined by the brake fluid that can droplets above, then a point to clean and restore surely in a restoration. Usually means that these bushings are not replaced? :hide

I think I will do teflon similar to the original, because to venture to modify and adapt the other one do not think I have the skills.
Thank you for your time.

Igor
 
I have no words ...
This morning I get mail from Shari that I have already sent all the parties, and without yet having received the payment due to impediments in the family I have not been in the bank.
What can I say, it's really very very very nice to find so many people willing away, both professional and nice.
Fantastic!

Jhon the highest regard for you and your work.

(Jhon now settle the payment ;-) )
 
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