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"Tims65" said:Front:
- Global West UCA's
- TCP LCA's
- 620 springs (cut)
- Edelbrock IAS springs
- '70 big bearing spindles
- TCP strut rods
- Baer Tracker bumpsteer kit
- 1" front bar
- TCP manual R+P
Subframe connectors
Rear:
- Performance 4 leafs
- Panhard bar
- Edelbrock IAS shocks
- Afco spring rod modified Traction Bars.
No binding, no noticable bumpsteer.
Tim
That is a possible solution, to at least limit the amount the front raises. Is there any down side to adding a limiter."Mach1ne" said:In the drag car world they use travel limiters.
Nascar uses a nylon rope to do the same thing. I would assume because it is lighter.
I did not measure it, I dialed out the very noticable bumpsteer by moving the shims on the baer kit until I found a setting that worked the best."BobV" said:So, what are your bumpsteer measurements thru the travel range? :shrug
I do have roller perches (edited the OP to reflect)"silverblueBP" said:No roller perch?
Is there any bind in the front suspension (other than the stock perch) with the spring and shock off?
On the rear, I removed the traction bars when I added the panhard bar. I had a couple vintage racers tell me that one.
We recently moved and I can find my printout, but basically:"Shaun" said:Alignment specs are?
"Fordrevhead" said:ever try a bigger chin spoiler? I know it makes trailer loading a little tighter.
"Shaun" said:I very much doubt its aerodynamic lift. There are tons of cars out there (mine included) without any splitters that are not getting front end lift. If it was aero lift then it would get gradually higher the faster you went as the high pressure built up and up. I bet as soon as you nail the gas up she pops regardless if its at 40mph or 140mph.
+2 Caster is nowhere near enough. Shoot for +4 or +5 and see what happens then.
I'll try this this weekend, but I don't have any toe measurement gauges. I can tape a laser pointer to the wheels and measure the change against the wall some distance away, but I don't know exactly what I will take away from this."BobV" said:Just for kicks, measure the toe at ride height, then put a jack under the front crossmember, jack it up a couple inches to match your pics, and measure again. Wouldn't hurt to measure the camber at both heights as well, just for reference.
I don't know, I look at it from the other direction. Driving a car with noticable bumpsteer and then making adjustments to the baer kit, you can tell real world, seat of the pants differences in the cars behavior. Measurements would be more accurate but I substantially corrected the diving and darting behavior of my car by moving shims and test driving."BobV" said:I'd still spend the time to go thru and bump-steer the car correctly no matter what. I know many people "have no issues" with bumpsteer - and those same people have never measured bumpsteer nor driven a bump-corrected car, so how do they know? You can't just eyeball things with all the changes that have been made.
I have almost the opposite setting on my bumpsteer kit, I have, only, the smallest shim on my set up with '70 big bearing spindles and Global West UCA's. I'll see if I can get some bumpsteer measurements."BobV" said:Global West arms with different spindles will basically max out the adjustment on the Baer Trackers. I used all but one shim with 65 spindles to get things right. You will also probably have to dial in more static caster just to stay within range. Looks like the strut rods were used to get the caster you have - you'll probably need to shim the UCAs to add more.
Thanks, I'll try reducing the toe on my next alignment setting."BobV" said:Just noticed your alignment specs too. I'd cut back on the toe-in - try 1/16 or even 0. Toe-in was basically used to "pull" the suspension forward to make up for the slop in all the rubber parts. With the aftermarket strut rods and arms, the suspension doesn't "flex" like with rubber-bushed rods. You basically don't need as much toe-in.