What wiring kit did you go with, Terry? That's the last big item I have to tackle and its coming soon. Ive looked at Ron Francis, American Autowire and Alloy Metal Products and OEM stock.
-
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
Horseplay: 1965 Fastback Restomod
- Thread starter Horseplay
- Start date
I bought a few repop harnesses such as for running to the rear to power the tailights, etc. and the front end as well, however, I did so more to cannibalize them for the final connectors really. That way the final product plugs into lights, etc. nicely and looks stock. I then bought a generic harness off E-Bay just to get quality automotive wire (and lots of different colors!) that I cut up just to use the wire as I chose. The wire available at places like Autozone, etc. is not to my liking. Big difference between the "good stuff" and it. I used a Painless 14 circuit fuse block and even modified it to better suit my application.
My whole "system" is very custom. Since I wanted to house the main control chassis in the console I built nothing stock would come close to working. Plus by the time you add power windows, door locks, trunk latch, remote operation, electric fan, lots of added interior lighting, etc. what's the point in stock anyway. This way I could have something that lays out much cleaner and "makes sense" from design and troubleshooting perspectives. I may even be adding a push to start button system down the road. I always hated how the keys marked up the dash and rattled around as I drove. Not sure as my overall goal is to have modern conveniences but retain the stock look and not sure how the button would blend in. After all the work in making the console and switches meet that goal I'd hate to screw it up!
The only thing I wanted to do initially that got shelved for now was to build a plug in base chassis for all the relays being used. I think i will do that over the winter and retro-fit it later. So much easier to be able to just plug/unplug relays vs. having to pull off and on 4 or 5 wires if a relay fails.
Since someone (
) seems to get off on riding me about finishing my car...thanks by the way...figure time for a long overdue update. Lots has been done since the last time I bothered posting here. I will try to get caught up over the next little while. I will have to go back and see where I left off to even know where to fill in the gaps.
Some stuff that has been done is or happening that I know I didn't write up yet will suffice for now.
I decided to make yet another change in the plan for the car. Having a three month window to get it done, tested, tweaked and broken in I naturally elected to lose the carb in favor of fuel injection to add more of a challenge.
Thought being long term it would make more sense from performance and reliability perspectives. That meant ditching the current fuel system in favor of a return style with an in-tank pump set-up. I was able to re-use the stainless hard line I made for the original set-up as part of the return line at least. I figure with the planned Power Tour trip ahead this will make life on the road much more reliable and maybe even cheaper!
Ended up going with a Tanksinc tank. Really can't recommend it more. It is internally baffled to keep the pump pick-up covered in fuel no matter how hard you turn or accelerate. also, it comes silver powdercoated which looks great and will wear even better. Using Russell Twist-Lok hose and connectors.
I had to modify the trunk framework I made to elevate the trunk floor over the height of the larger 22 gallon take to clear the pump fuel line connections with the new set-up. This frame also mounts/supports the trunk mounted battery and will serve as the base from which all the trunk interior panels will affix. Probably hard to see in the pics but the center portion is removable (bolts to the two side bars which are welded in place) to allow the tank to be taken out if ever needed.
Although to this point I have done virtually everything myself on this build, I elected to hire out the upholstery work for the seats. I might be able to sew up an armrest or a door panel bit but I didn't feel I could take on the seats without mucking it up too badly while I learned. Having them made to my design but I will at least be installing them on the seats myself. Close enough for a DYI in this area. Should be done this week. I just signed off on the custom logo to be embroidered in the seat back. It's silver threaded infill to give it what I hope is the look of a chrome piece. Yes?
) seems to get off on riding me about finishing my car...thanks by the way...figure time for a long overdue update. Lots has been done since the last time I bothered posting here. I will try to get caught up over the next little while. I will have to go back and see where I left off to even know where to fill in the gaps.Some stuff that has been done is or happening that I know I didn't write up yet will suffice for now.
I decided to make yet another change in the plan for the car. Having a three month window to get it done, tested, tweaked and broken in I naturally elected to lose the carb in favor of fuel injection to add more of a challenge.
Thought being long term it would make more sense from performance and reliability perspectives. That meant ditching the current fuel system in favor of a return style with an in-tank pump set-up. I was able to re-use the stainless hard line I made for the original set-up as part of the return line at least. I figure with the planned Power Tour trip ahead this will make life on the road much more reliable and maybe even cheaper!Ended up going with a Tanksinc tank. Really can't recommend it more. It is internally baffled to keep the pump pick-up covered in fuel no matter how hard you turn or accelerate. also, it comes silver powdercoated which looks great and will wear even better. Using Russell Twist-Lok hose and connectors.
I had to modify the trunk framework I made to elevate the trunk floor over the height of the larger 22 gallon take to clear the pump fuel line connections with the new set-up. This frame also mounts/supports the trunk mounted battery and will serve as the base from which all the trunk interior panels will affix. Probably hard to see in the pics but the center portion is removable (bolts to the two side bars which are welded in place) to allow the tank to be taken out if ever needed.
Although to this point I have done virtually everything myself on this build, I elected to hire out the upholstery work for the seats. I might be able to sew up an armrest or a door panel bit but I didn't feel I could take on the seats without mucking it up too badly while I learned. Having them made to my design but I will at least be installing them on the seats myself. Close enough for a DYI in this area.
Should be done this week. I just signed off on the custom logo to be embroidered in the seat back. It's silver threaded infill to give it what I hope is the look of a chrome piece. Yes?
Fast68back
Guest
What efi are you using?
Picked up a FiTech system. Went with the 600 hp black unit figuring it would work on whatever I might need in the future. Since my current engine has a hydraulic cam I will need to start and break it it first with the carb set-up (fuel hose in a can time!) and once that's done swap on the new EFI unit. FiTech techs tell me that they can't guarantee the initial start-up will be smooth enough I could sustain a good rpm that I need for the initial cam run in. Nothings ever easy. This engine was only planned for a short life anyway. I want to replace it with something much wilder asap.
swpruett
Member
Dang! A little progress indeed Terry! Looks fantastic!
Thanks, Sven. I can't wait to get the seats together and back in the car. I'm going to use some of the same "psuedo-perforated" gray leather from the seat centers to make some custom changes to the standard pony door panels. Once all this gets installed it will look like a finished car. At least on the inside.
Fast68back
Guest
I'm really leaning towards FI tech as well. I keep hoping Ford will get its head out of its ass and develop a narrow mod motor and quit losing all the LS swap business. I just dont want to hack up shock towers to get a coyote to fit.
Not really sure why you would need a mod anyway. Aftermarket block with a set of any AFR/TFS/? aluminum heads with a roller cam and a system like Fitech and what does a modern engine really get you that you wouldn't already have? Besides, old school looks better.
Get the 'big boy' AFR 205 heads !! They really flow !!
kb3
Well-Known Member
The looks is subjective so I won't argue that. But I will say the new Coyote in stock form pushing 435+ horsepower is much more street-able than any of the former 5.0 blocks pushing that type of power. I truly enjoy the SEFI 5.0 in the kid's fastback, but it has to work a lot harder than the 5.0 in the wife's 15 does, not to mention the Coyote can be boosted to over 600 and still maintain the factory warranty. Hard to beat for power to the ground. I am seriously considering a Coyote transplant into my 67 convertible, as I plan for it to be a comfortable street cruiser.
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
there is a reason all those cams work but I agree the old pushrod motor looks better that plastic covers. The four cam mod motors don't look too bad with the big valve covers. But anyway, I also think the old push rod motor with a stroker crank and some good heads (like the Kaase P38) will make 500 HP and fit in anything. The older cars weigh a lot less than a late model too so you wouldn't need to make the same level of HP if you want a more tame motor. But I won't argue that the Coyote is a great motor. They are just HUGE! I am helping my son put a four cam 4.6 in his Mustang and it's physically bigger than my 429 and only 281 cubes. Granted his is aluminum block and weighs less but it's still giant and it's costing a fortune to build. I could build two push rod motors for what he is spending on parts!
LS motors are a dime a dozen. My other son bought a LQ9 cast iron 6.0 out of a running truck for $300. You can buy whole running LS doner vehicles in the $1,000 price range. Try to find a Coyote for that. And the aftermarket supports LS swaps for the computer stuff, mounts, etc. Not much support for mod motor swaps.
LS motors are a dime a dozen. My other son bought a LQ9 cast iron 6.0 out of a running truck for $300. You can buy whole running LS doner vehicles in the $1,000 price range. Try to find a Coyote for that. And the aftermarket supports LS swaps for the computer stuff, mounts, etc. Not much support for mod motor swaps.
Fst Blk
Well-Known Member
What did he buy the 6.0 for?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
When he still had the 67 Chevy van he was going to put in there. He sold everything though.
Just a quick update. Lots going on. I alluded to me making one of my crazy decisions in another thread. Craig's activities gave me an itch that won't go away. Almost positive I will be building a new engine to drop in before the Tour. Plan is to get this one fired up and broken in and then yank it. Have a hankering for a more powerful engine that can't wait until this winter. Going to move up to a fully forged stroker. The current engine can sit around for a bit until I find the right old pickup...
Oh yeah. The custom upholstery I had made for the seats arrived today. Tomorrow I try my hand at recovering the seats. Ought to be interesting.
Oh yeah. The custom upholstery I had made for the seats arrived today. Tomorrow I try my hand at recovering the seats. Ought to be interesting.
I love the seat covers. That looks sharp! What seats are you using?
Thanks, Pat. I picked up a set of Fiero seats a long time ago. They sit really low so no need to cut the seat pan and the width is a perfect match for the stock 65 seats so the seat tracks are easy to modify to bolt right in the stock holes.
I spent way too long designing the look of the seats. It coordinates with everything else in the car. Challenge was to include the multiple colors and not get tacky or worse, ricer looking! They are real leather (the inset is dimpled to look like it is perforated without the holes). The horse emblem really turned out well. Getting the scale right was the first challenge. It is stitched in metallic silver thread. I wanted it to look like a typical Mustang chrome emblem.
I spent way too long designing the look of the seats. It coordinates with everything else in the car. Challenge was to include the multiple colors and not get tacky or worse, ricer looking! They are real leather (the inset is dimpled to look like it is perforated without the holes). The horse emblem really turned out well. Getting the scale right was the first challenge. It is stitched in metallic silver thread. I wanted it to look like a typical Mustang chrome emblem.
Someday if I redo my seats that's kind of what I wanted. I was thinking of doing the tri bar logo on mine. Can't wait to see it done.
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
I like those. I acquired some 93 Foxbody GT seats I may put in the 67.
I am worried about having all the bugs out of mine, the 99GT and CJ's Bobcat and your going to build another engine... your word was "crazy" I must agree! But I wish you luck!
I am worried about having all the bugs out of mine, the 99GT and CJ's Bobcat and your going to build another engine... your word was "crazy" I must agree! But I wish you luck!
With my luck I'll be the only one who makes the tour this year.