Hydraulic clutch help needed

[SELLERSRODSHOP]

with the current setup, he's essentially trying to fill a quart jar with a fluid from a pint jar. with the 3/4" wilwood master, there isn't enough fluid moving thru the 7/8 slave to get a full stroke & properly acuate the clutch.

 

[Sluggo]

So now I'm thoroughly confused. Do you have a problem now or not?[nb]Yes[/nb] Sounds like you think you do, but only trying to get in reverse?[nb]Not the typical shrort grind, a long nasty grind[/nb] Have you tried shifting into another forward gear before shifting to reverse?[nb]Yes[/nb] For most of us, this is just habit, now.

I installed the 7/8ths master today and life is good now. I have the preload on the throw-out about where I'd expect it to be now. Tightened the rod until it would not spin and gave it another 1/4 turn. Clutch completely disengages and if I hit reverse without passing through 5th I get just a short, slow grind. Like others have described.

Buening's calculation is right in line with my suspicion. Which means I was around 3/8ths of an inch short on stroke. That explains the crazy preload I had to put on it.

 

[95GT]

Glad to hear you got this fixed Sluggo. It might just save me some headaches if I choose that way to go when I get around to my clutch set up.

 

[Sluggo]

Glad to hear you got this fixed Sluggo. It might just save me some headaches if I choose that way to go when I get around to my clutch set up.

If you are running power brakes on your car I would highly recommend using the CNC master. Both of the Willwoods had to be modified to fit in the limited space.

 

[95GT]

If you are running power brakes on your car I would highly recommend using the CNC master. Both of the Willwoods had to be modified to fit in the limited space.

I am almost thinking I am going to have to go with manual brakes on my car. After looking it over I might not have room for a booster and the tall valve covers I have. But that will be a few months down the road yet.