"Kats66Pny" said:
He may be referring to Fusor or similar body adhesive. If done right, it can be as good as welding.
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It use to be shiney chrome
- Thread starter Kats66Pny
- Start date
He may be referring to Fusor or similar body adhesive. If done right, it can be as good as welding.
daveSanborn
Active Member
If you're looking for something cheap and easy to do.... (besides Midlife).... grab a 5/16ths nut driver and remove that relay from the passenger side fender apron that's serving no purpose.
Put it in the glove box. It's always nice to have some small un-neccessary parts stashed in the glove box that you can throw out the window at cars/drivers that have ticked you off.
Put it in the glove box. It's always nice to have some small un-neccessary parts stashed in the glove box that you can throw out the window at cars/drivers that have ticked you off.
"Kats66Pny" said:
Ruh-roh....
"Kats66Pny" said:
No offense to him...I've fixed things like that before, and it works GREAT. But, 99.9% of the time it looks like total shart, especially in an exposed area like the engine bay.
I suppose if you flanged the edges of the patch so it was durn near flush when it was installed, and slopped some filler or epoxy over the seam and sanded it smooth, it wouldn't be so noticeable....hmm...
I'd still rather butt-weld it in and grind it flush. Done well, you'd never know it had been fixed, it's not lapped so it has less of a chance of rusting than a lapped repair, plus it's metal on metal. Personally, I'd only use the epoxy if welding was impossible or *highly* impractical. You could cut/fit/prep that patch and have it welded for very little $$.
He'll have to give me pointers because it took him a few minutes to even find where he did it and I didn't even notice it. I'd prefer to get it welded, and I plan on asking around if anyone could do it for me for cheap, and if I can't find anyone, then go the adhesive route.
daveSanborn
Active Member
Two winters ago I had a VMF'ers 64.5 Coupe in my garage that needed an exact same repair on the apron/battery tray. I kept a running talley of my time spent repairing his car. I charged him 2 hours to cutout and buttweld in a new panel. There's nothing about working on these cars that's "rocket science".... you just need to get out there and do it. If you can't weld, so be it, but can you cutout the rusted/rotted metal? Spend the $15 on the repair panel, cut it to match the damaged area and then beg/borrow or steel a guy who can weld to come over and weld it in for you.
daveSanborn
Active Member
"Kats66Pny" said:
With a metal cutting wheel on it, yep! Only cutout the damaged/rotted metal. You'll almost always want to save as much good original metal as possible.
When you get the new replacement panel, cut it to match the opening you've made so that the new panel "just fits" into the opening. It shouldn't overlap anywhere and you shouldn't have gaps of more than 1/8" between the new and old metal.