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J's Rat rod has inspired me...

tarafied1

Well-Known Member
a little, not ready to chop any tops but...
I was thinking (uh oh), I have several stock steel hoods. two with the turn signal vents and one with a Boss9 scoop. What if I make a steel hood to fit my Ecar nose?
I could use the best hood, cut the front off. Then cut the front off a doner, longer by the length of the Shelby Ecar nose. Roughly an inch or so. Of course the hood gets narrower toward the front so I would have to narrow the longer front section before attatching it. Since the "bead" or whatever you would call it runs down the center, I would keep that one peice and section some metal out of either side to narrow it.
 
Cricky Craig, if J can do it.....a caveman could do it :vic
 
I say go for it. Remember, the lines running front to back on the hood will possibly have to be slightly adjusted all the way.... I am not familiar how narrow the nose of the shelby hood is compared to a normal hood.
 
"Fast68back" said:
Cool, where did the FB come from?
I bought it on ebay and because I was low on funds when doing the coupe, I sold it. :cry
and another FB I sadly had to sell because I needed money... It was a 302 4 speed with factory AC. I paid $500 in 2001 for it. When I moved to KY I had to sell a 53 F100, this 68 FB and tons of parts because I couldn't move it all :cry :cry :cry
 
"Fast68back" said:
Don't forget, Jake did it too...
that too has motivated me

"AzPete" said:
I say go for it. Remember, the lines running front to back on the hood will possibly have to be slightly adjusted all the way.... I am not familiar how narrow the nose of the shelby hood is compared to a normal hood.
I know it can be done, this guy did it
6c61655d16f98b1d00f098bcf3f29ec7039933b6.pjpg

Yes you are right and the "curl" of the stock hood is much more than the Shelby. It will be a challenge for sure! I didn't think about the fact that the lines taper more than the hood itself...
I sketched this on the plane.
 
couple of tips:

when you get ready to do the grafting, make a template off of the top of the fender that you can lay on top of the hood parts to get the proper curve when adding the extra material. i have a large stack of masonite panels from shipping containers that works well for this, but cardboard will work too. mark a few spots on the fender & in the same places on the hood before removal. also mark the template, that way when you lay the template on the hood, you can get it in the same place

when you trim the edges of the new piece, you might leave a little extra that you can fold over like the original skin does for a more factory finished look. i can give you some insight on doing this over the phone if you run into any problems. just PM for my phone number..

i did a cougar hood one time & used another hood for a large scoop similar to the style on the 67 shelby.
 
"lethal289" said:
That would be sweet Craig! Is the width of the nose the same? I always assumed it narrowed a little.
The nose continues on the same taper but is longer so ultimately narrower if that is what you mean.
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
just PM for my phone number..
thanks for the pointers and PM sent
"70_Fastback" said:
Go for it Craig2!
Thanks for the inspiration!
 
"lethal289" said:
I like it! I like the turn signal hood more without the scoop though.
me too but I need the scoop for clearance. That last car has a shaker. I'm thinking of using my Boss 429 scoop.
 
Then you will look like J! :lol Except of course yours is a coupe, and an E! :craz

Probably more work, but i think i would relocate the turn signals further down towards the nose and build them into a cowl hood. But then im a little biased, I like cowl hoods. :craz
 
found this pic of an Ecar with stock hood, you can see how much it will need to be extended and how the curvature is different at the nose.
img2355c.jpg
 
still thinking about how to do this. so if I take two steel hoods, cut one the extra length I need and trim the corner off maybe it will work?
 
Instead of cutting a nose off one and grafting it to the other, would it work better to cut the nose off, then graft in a 3-4" section from another hood? Often that is how people stretch fenders, perhaps because it makes it easier to match the curves?.
 
that's sorta what I had in mind (I think). Only instead of grafting in a section between the two original pieces, I would just cut the doner hood longer by however much I need. Isn't that the same thing without more welds? or am I missing something?
 
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