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Mach1Mark's '65 coupe restomod

Today I media stripped some small pieces and prepped and primered them, learned more about powder coating by coating some heater box parts and some brake parts and primered several sheet metal pieces in black primer.

Bought some Ron Morris Performance adjustable motor mounts last week for half price and they arrived today. Im very excited by this newest acquisition.
 
Yesterday I bought some more paint supplies (this is the third, five gallon bucket of laquer thinner we've needed), today I media stripped the front portion of the heater box to remove the flaking paint and olld glue/foam. Also, finished removing the old caulk/sealer in the drip rails and applied seam sealer to the drip rails.
 
Yesterday, procured a new Maier fiberglass hood with a BIG teardrop scoop !!

Today, I installed new door hinge springs, stripped the bolts that attach the trunk to their hinges, applied a second layer of seam sealer in the drip rails and used my long board air-powered sander to smooth the filler on the drivers quarter panel. Applied another thin layer of filler.
 
Was able to locate a skilled bodyman to skim/block my coupe. Here are todays progress pics.

Also, ordered the camber kit from Shaun and it arrived today. We'll be welding that in this weekend.
 
I hammered and trimmed the LCA mounting location to accept the locking plates, welded camber lock kit in place and ground LCA locating hole into a slot per instructions, scuffed the engine bay and laid some grey primer. The bodyman and painter I hired finished skimming and blocking the quarters, doors and hood. They did a great job. Lastly, welded a seam in the pass side quarter panel replacement that was never welded when repaired in 1984 and applied seam sealer.
 
Yesterday I bought the base coat paint, clear coat and other needed supplies. Today, I finished making a temporary door w/ filters that will be used to keep foreign material from coming into the shop, smoothed a few more areas on the roof, re-habbed the car cart and re-installed it on the Colt. laid a little more filler primer on the tail light panel and the 'glass hood bubble.
 
Yesterday, sprayed some satin chassis black in/around the engine bay and on the new export brace. . . came out perfect.
 
Looking good! How do you like the hood? Was considering going with the same style on my 68. Does it seem like a solid piece?

Looking forward to seeing this progress.
 
Thanks, Eric. Ive been enjoying the whole resto-mod experience (planning, buying, building) and looking forward to the driving and showing.

Maier makes really nice fiberglass body parts. Ive bought from them before years ago and was very impressed and pleased. I was going to buy my hood from Crites Restorations because I found their hood first and didnt know anyone else was making them until I found this one in a major Mustang parts supplier catalog. Went to the Maier website and it was more expensive than the Crites hood ($500 vs $350) but the Crites hood is made with mat fiberglass and the Maier hood is made with weave. Guess which was is stronger . . . the Maier hood. Not too wavy either, they must have really straight molds. Maier hood also has molded in threaded inserts for the factory hinges and hold-downs.
 
Finished applying seam sealer to the seams in the trunk, drilled a drain hole in the driver quarter, attached the grills to the openings in the new 'glass hood. Water sanded the quarter panels, hung both doors on the car and lowered the car to the ground from the saw horses.
 
This week we (a local Mustanger buddy, Tom who laid the paint) prepped the Colt (and the shop) for yesterday. We applied sealer, killer black primer, 2-3 Vintage Burgundy base coats and 2-3 clear coats. Time for some rest and let the base/clear cure. Job well done.
 
"Mach1Mark" said:
We applied sealer, killer black primer, 2-3 Vintage Burgundy base coats and 2-3 clear coats.
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Nice job, but why the black primer between the sealer and base coat?
 
"lethal289" said:
Wow that looks great. What did you use to secure the screen to the scoops in the hood?
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Thanks for your compliment . . . I am very pleased with the results.

Initially I was going to use Liquid Nails or some other construction adhesive but I found a Loktite brand adhesive that was suitable for both metal (grill) and fiberglass (hood). It was a little difficult to 'tool' which the instructions advise against but I wanted a smooth bead. I laid a bead around each opening on the inside of the hood, located the pre-cut, pre-bent grill, applied the hold-down jigs and wire and applied more adhesive on top of the grill all around the opening. I will endeaver to remember to take a pic of the result, it looks almost professional with the burgundy paint + clear on top of it all.

Attached is a pic of the grills w/o the clear. We taped and papered the inside of the hood to protect the base + clear from overspray.
 
"stangg" said:
Nice job, but why the black primer between the sealer and base coat?
Click to expand...

Thanks . . . initially, we applied grey SPI brand primer over the bare metal and apparently the black primer is to provide a consistent background for the metallic base paint. My understanding is that there could have been noticable variations in color had we laid the base on the grey primer. Knowing this I should have used the black SPI primer instead of the grey, then the killer black primer coat would not have been needed. However, the sealer we used was a dark grey so we probably would have ended up laying another coat of SPI black primer if the sealer doesnt(?) come in black.

When the killer black primer had flashed I found myself thinking I really liked the look of satin black on the outside of the car. Lets just stop right here.
 
After allowing the base and clear to cure for a few days we started cutting and buffing, something Ive never done. It would be easier if we had warm water from the shop hose. The fenders have been 'cut' with 1000 and 2000 grit and are ready for buffing. The same is true for both hoods. Starting on the car body next.
 
Today, after a two week break we continued wet sanding the clear coat on the car body. Used 1000 grit 3M, orange peel in the clear coat coming off nicely. Hit the tops of the fenders with 2500 as well as both hoods. Smoooooooooth . . .
 
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