More wiring identification help

[Kats66Pny]

Since the old hacked up wiring I removed isn't anything like these new harnesses I got, I'm confused. I printed out several diagrams but they don't seem to be much help since I don't exactly have a stock setup and my battery is in the trunk. THe pictures I took in the past of the wiring I had on isn't helping either, again because it was all fubar'd thanks to the PO.

First are these two red and blue ones coming from the firewall.

This part was cut off by PO so nothing to compare it to. I do know one of them goes to the oil sending unit (the white one with black wrapping?). Another to temp sending?

This is part of the headlight..I'm assuming the thin black is a ground (each side has one), but what do I connect it to? One of the little bolts on the apron?

From what I can tell, this is how these are suppose to connect to the solenoid. Yellow connects to the other harness. Brown? goes on the right side in the front and the red/blue goes in the front left. The big one with 2 wires on it goes on the left side.

So what does this red one go to? Same side as the battery - left side?

as you can tell the previous wiring was a cluster :censored and not really much help with multiple red wires. Yes my giant thick ground from the block to the apron needs replaced.

Yellow and brown.. can't seem to see anything those could connect to, unless they connect to something inside the firewall under the dash?

Alternator harness.. Mine didn't have one so this baffles me.

I know they go somewhere on the back!! :thu LOL

This was how it was connected by the PO. Again, not much help. :rant

..Off to go google some more and see if I can't figure this out. I'd like to get it all hooked up so I can start Gertrude up again and listen to her!

 

[Midlife]

Red/blue in the first picture is for your neutral safety switch on your automatic tranny. If you have a manual tranny, just jumper the male to the female connector.

2nd picture: white/red goes to the oil sending unit, red/white goes to temperature, and red/green goes to the coi.

3rd picture: The ground ring connectors go under a screw that screws into the radiator support, not the apron. You can use one of the screws for the voltage regulator on the radiator support, putting the ground lug under the VR.

4th picture: You got it right. Red goes onto battery post.

Yellow and brown female plugs go to the heater motor on the engine side of the firewall.

Every alternator seems to have their posts located differently. If you look closely, you'll see a letter by each post. Fro 1966, white wire goes to F (Field), black/red is ground (G), and black/yellow goes to Battery (B). Nothing goes on the Stator (S) post.

Hope this helps!

 

[RyanG85]

Since the old hacked up wiring I removed isn't anything like these new harnesses I got, I'm confused. I printed out several diagrams but they don't seem to be much help since I don't exactly have a stock setup and my battery is in the trunk. THe pictures I took in the past of the wiring I had on isn't helping either, again because it was all fubar'd thanks to the PO.

First are these two red and blue ones coming from the firewall.

Those are not on my 65?
This part was cut off by PO so nothing to compare it to. I do know one of them goes to the oil sending unit (the white one with black wrapping?). Another to temp sending?

Black wrap goes to oil sender, black one goes to temp sender and red one goes to positive side of coil
This is part of the headlight..I'm assuming the thin black is a ground (each side has one), but what do I connect it to? One of the little bolts on the apron?

Those are grounds for the headlight harness, just find a place to screw to chassis
From what I can tell, this is how these are suppose to connect to the solenoid. Yellow connects to the other harness. Brown? goes on the right side in the front and the red/blue goes in the front left. The big one with 2 wires on it goes on the left side.

So what does this red one go to? Same side as the battery - left side?

as you can tell the previous wiring was a cluster :censored and not really much help with multiple red wires. Yes my giant thick ground from the block to the apron needs replaced.

Yellow and brown.. can't seem to see anything those could connect to, unless they connect to something inside the firewall under the dash?

The yellow and brown go to the blower motor for the heater
Alternator harness.. Mine didn't have one so this baffles me.

I know they go somewhere on the back!! :thu LOL

This was how it was connected by the PO. Again, not much help. :rant

..Off to go google some more and see if I can't figure this out. I'd like to get it all hooked up so I can start Gertrude up again and listen to her!

Not 100% sure on others since I've just removed those from mine. The other stuff I just got done messing with an hour ago on mine.

 

[Midlife]

For manual trannys, the blue/red NSS harness is not used; instead, the wires get jumpered just short of the firewall plug inside the passenger compartment.

 

[Kats66Pny]

Red/blue in the first picture is for your neutral safety switch on your automatic tranny. If you have a manual tranny, just jumper the male to the female connector.

I have an auto C4 with a manual valve body. I don't recall having anything connected to the tranny wiring wise.

2nd picture: white/red goes to the oil sending unit, red/white goes to temperature, and red/green goes to the coi.

Yeah I was right about the white/red! lol Now to locate the temperature unit. Might be different for my 302 with edelbrock intake? How is the red/green suppose to reach my coil? lol Its way over on the passenger side shock tower.

3rd picture: The ground ring connectors go under a screw that screws into the radiator support, not the apron. You can use one of the screws for the voltage regulator on the radiator support, putting the ground lug under the VR.

Gotcha. Easy enough!

4th picture: You got it right. Red goes onto battery post.

Yellow and brown female plugs go to the heater motor on the engine side of the firewall.

Ok so leave alone. I have no heater.

Every alternator seems to have their posts located differently. If you look closely, you'll see a letter by each post. Fro 1966, white wire goes to F (Field), black/red is ground (G), and black/yellow goes to Battery (B). Nothing goes on the Stator (S) post.

My alternator only has 2 posts and there seems to be 3 things that are suppose to connect to the back of it? Oh and I didn't see any lettering near the posts but I'll go look again.

 

[AzPete]

Temp sender should be near the front top of the intake. Some have an option near the back...but always in a water passage...

The coil was originally on the front of the intake or block on the drivers side......also, that is the factory resistor wire. You may not need it...look into the MSD wiring for info.

The C4 still should have a NSS to prevent you from starting it in gear. It makes no difference with the manual shift kit.

Looks like a one wire alt.....again...not stock.

 

[Kats66Pny]

Found the temp unit. It's on the top, front of intake on passenger side behind alternator. It was/is hooked up for an aftermarket temp gauge. Looks like I might have to replace it as there is no way to connect anything to it.

I guess PO didn't have the NSS or removed it. Guess something else I will have to look into getting.

I double, triple checked the alternator. No lettering on it. So how do I hook that up? :shrug

 

[stangg]

The alternator looks like a GM altenator... Seeing that there is just one wire connected, is it supposed to be a 1 wire alternator?
Otherwise, the two spade terminals need to be considered as well. The spade on the right can be jumpered to the battery terminal at the back of the alternator. On a GM, the left side spade is connected to the idiot light on the dash. I'm pretty sure the ignition run power goes from the ignition switch, to the idiot light in series, then to that terminal on the on the alternator. When the ignition switch goes to "run", the idiot light should turn on indicating that the alternator is excited, then when the alternator comes on with the engine, the alternator unlatches that terminal and the light should go off... I can dig up my wiring diagram for if needed... Are the spade terminals labeled 1 and 2 ? Just about every autoparts store carries the 2 wire pigtail for the old GM alternators.

 

[tarafied1]

here is the Ford wiring for the ALT, I agree it looks like a GM.

 

[tarafied1]

NSS should look like this, on the shift lever of the trans...

 

[Midlife]

There is no alternator lamp on the 1966. Instead, the RUN signal goes to the S terminal on the VR, obtained from the headlight harness. I do not know how to hook things up with an ammeter system; in fact, I don't believe the ammeter system will work with the one-wire alternator at all!

 

[tarafied1]

okay, maybe these will help

 

[Kats66Pny]

Ok so from what I can tell I just need to run a wire from the alternator (the red post on the back) to the battery side of the solenoid? So basically, I don't really even need the stock alternator harness?

 

[Horseplay]

Why not get a new alternator and hook it up with your new harness the way Ford intended? I know it is a bit more cash to spend but at least you'll have a NEW alternator and it would be wired with all new wiring as Ford designed. Besides, if your luck is anything like mine that old one will take a crap the first time you venture more than 10 miles from anywhere anyway.

 

[RyanG85]

+1. Last time a I checked, a correct reman was $36 for what you need.

 

[Kats66Pny]

But would I get one for a 1966 or for a 1990 mustang?

for '66 ford = 29.00 + 12 core and only 65amp, but I have a 1990 GT 302 roller in Gert and that one is 79.99 + 35 core for 75amp and the back looks like it has different connection, a plug, not posts.

 

[Midlife]

Get one for a 66. 65 amps is more than sufficient unless you're running power windows, an electric radiator fan, A/C, and a super stereo all at the same time.

 

[Kats66Pny]

unless you're running power windows, an electric radiator fan, A/C, and a super stereo all at the same time.

Well, not right now but down the road that was the plan to have all those. :nut

I guess I can get just get one for a 66 now, the 65 amp one and later on when I add more stuff go up to something like the Powermaster 140amp.

 

[66gt350]

Get yourself a 3g alternator out of 94-95 mustang. They range from 95 amps up to 200 amps. Then you can toss out the stock wiring and voltage regulator.

Just stay away from the 2g alternators (from a fox body)...they had a tendency to over heat and burn up.

 

[Midlife]

Mid has a 76 alternator that puts out something like 85 amps. Alternator output goes directly to the battery, which can supply much more amperage to the car if required. If the amperage required is continuously greater than the alternator output, the battery will not be recharged. Another thing to think about is that the standard 66 wiring is probably only good for about 65 amps anyway; if you are running high amperage devices, they should run directly off of the battery and not the stock wiring.