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most cost effective sound deadener/heat insulation?

"blu67" said:
The website with all the great info and comparison used to be www.sounddeadenershowdown.com but he seems to have changed his website and doesn't provide the comparison pages he originally had. Too bad. That was a great site with great info on extremes and quality for various manufacturers.
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Here is the archive.

http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/Sound_Deadener_Showdown.pdf

It is the old webpage converted to pdf. There is a lot of good info if you read it all, if you just want to get to the meat of the comparison testing, skip to page 22.

I used this info several years ago to make the decision to go with raammat bxt and the ensolite. As far as I can tell it is holding up good. I also used a product from NPD called Heat Shield that is kind of like a foil backed 1/2" thick jute pad that I used on top of the bxt and ensolite in the roof, and between the bxt and ensolite on the firewall.
 
"sigtauenus" said:
Here is the archive.

http://www.dctra.org/files/1974_TR6_Carpet_Install/Sound_Deadener_Showdown.pdf

It is the old webpage converted to pdf. There is a lot of good info if you read it all, if you just want to get to the meat of the comparison testing, skip to page 22.

I used this info several years ago to make the decision to go with raammat bxt and the ensolite. As far as I can tell it is holding up good. I also used a product from NPD called Heat Shield that is kind of like a foil backed 1/2" thick jute pad that I used on top of the bxt and ensolite in the roof, and between the bxt and ensolite on the firewall.
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That's the site i used also. I couldn't find it as easily as before. the information is really good if your just starting out with no knowledge of the different brands out there. Thanks for posting that link.
 
"Kats66Pny" said:
That's the stuff I saw at the store and was thinking of using. It was fairly thin though and wasn't sure that was the stuff I was told about. Did you just use one layer of it? Is that all you used was that and then carpet over it, or did you use any kind of spray in sound deadener first?
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I also used 2 rolls of the frost king foam. I put it on the rear floors, under seats, fold down area, inner wheel houses, on the back side of the rear interior panels, and on the backside of the rear "trap door" panel. For the roof, I used the $10 factory style fiberglass mat. I also got the "underlayment" kit the Mustangs Unlimited sells... picked it up slightly used at a swapmeet for $20. The pieces are ~5/16" thick asphalt /polymer blend. They are heavy and don't smell. they cover the front and rear floors, and on top of the gas tank.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=ULK4+01

When I first started driving the car it was a bare shell inside and was horribly loud. Just getting the frost king foam laid down in the rear helped quite a bit to dampen the noise. With the rest of the interior in I think it sounds fine. I still have to spray undercoating on the wheel side of the wheel houses as they are just painted. Overall, it's not new car quiet, but I don't get any drone and since I don't have A/C, I don't care so much about quiet since the windows are typically down, and what I have is still more than what the factory provided. When the windows are up, I can still hear my small speaker stereo just fine. I too can't justify the 2-$300 it would cost to do it the "right" way.
 
"Horseplay" said:
Steve,

What does the stuff you used cost? I ask because I don't think the savings is a great as some may think compared to say, Fat Mat.

Also, be very careful when it comes to adhesive. Being in my field I know a thing or two about it. Lots of guys say to use the 3M77 spray, for example. This stuff will not hold over time or temp extremes. It won't. If you insist on using something that requires extra adhesive (which should be your first clue that it is not the right stuff!) at least step up to their 99 spray and spray both the "insulator" and the panel location.

By the time you buy the products made for completely different applications and the additional adhesive, I bet you're not saving anywhere near the dollars that would make worth taking teh chance and more importantly giving up the very real benefits of using a product made for the job.

For example, I got the largest box of Dynamat Extreme off an E-Bay store for under $90. This is more than enough to do a Mustang floor and then some. Raam costs even less and according to one poster here, Fat Mat less again. These products use the right adhesive, and offer both temperature insulation and sound deadening properties. HVAC products are made for insulating properties alone and any sound benefit is simply a bonus. If you read up on all the scientific testing of this stuff you will see night and day difference in actual performance between the "real" products" and the "this should work too" stuff.

BTW, my company sells material to Frost King that they use in the manufacture of many of their products. Let's just say we make quite a spread of product grades and they always choose near the bottom.
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this is the stuff i've used, not the "frost king".
http://www.lowes.com/pd_13353-56291-ST16025_4294858104_4294937087?productId=1014123&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_Foil%2BInsulation_4294858104_4294937087_

i don't use spraycan glue. never had any kind of decent results with any of it. i use 3M industrial landau top adhesive that i shoot thru an old spray gun. best trim glue i've ever seen.

i'm thinking of trying this on my 36 p/u. there is a code for a 50% off coupon at the end of the video. looks like the same product as "lizard skin", but mucch easier on the wallet.

Second Skin Audio.com Firewall Thermal Coating Sale
 
Well I am a big Second Skin Audio user. Red has it's Deamplier throughout. Shag is going further. Their newer Deamplifier Pro against the sheet metal inside. With luxury liner Pro on top of that. Then carpeting.

Inside the rear quarter cavities as seen below and rear wheel wells is their roll on, brush on Spectrum material. Dried gray in color so for the wheel wells, I then painted the area black.


4_01_06_10_7_08_50.JPG



Remember the foil covered rubber materials such as Second Skin's Deamplifier and others are designed for dampening structural vibration noises. Other benefits you might get are improvement in heat deflection and engine noise but doesn't cure it. For engine,exhaust noise you need to take a step further by applying something between the carpeting and your foiled covered floor. If heat from the motor is more of an issue for you then you need to find the best material designed for that specific problem.

If you have a center console, then it starts getting difficult if you have too much stacked up between the carpet and floor.
 
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Honestly, for me... I could care less how much sound/heat is blocked out. I just want carpet so the inside doesn't look so bare and ugly. :lol
 
"Kats66Pny" said:
Honestly, for me... I could care less how much sound/heat is blocked out. I just want carpet so the inside doesn't look so bare and ugly. :lol
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Run up to Joann fabric or lowes and pick something up. Its not written anywhere that you HAVE to have "Mustang" carpet in your Mustang. You can buy some decent remnants for a portion of when the kits cost. Spend some time installing it and it will look just as good. Hell, ask Craig about the carpet he pulled out of "Shag".....
 
I already have the carpet. It came with Gertrude when I bought her. Brand new, in the box.. just wasn't installed. I was under the impression though you HAD to put something under the carpet, that it couldn't just be plain carpet on top of the floor pan.
 
Kat, with these cars, you don't HAVE to do anything. Its just some things many guys do, in certain particular order, because they have found it to be effective, cost effective, or time effective.

For example, you could rip out the interior and put the carpet in as-is, but at some point down the line you may decide you want some sound deadener, even a minimal amount such as the original style asphault mats. Then you are out the time it takes to remove everything again. If you expect that point in time to be 3-4 years from now, well, I'd say go ahead and install the carpet now. You can do it in one weekend and be done with it. If you think you might want to do this 3-4-6 months from now, that time flies by quick, I'd recommend waiting and doing both at the same time.
 
Kat, with these cars, you don't HAVE to do anything. Its just some things many guys do, in certain particular order, because they have found it to be effective, cost effective, or time effective.
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I thought the rubber backing on the carpet would melt or something, that's why you're suppose to put down insulation. :lol
 
I would say if your sneakers are not melting when driving....neither will the carpet.
 
"AzPete" said:
I would say if your sneakers are not melting when driving....neither will the carpet.
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+1...... I would venture to guess the PO left it out for the weight savings.
 
"cmayna" said:
Ok, enough damage here for the day. Off I go diving into Shag's interior.
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Wow, ok, I guess we are off topic enough on this one already, I'll leave that one alone. :lol
 
I would put something down under the carpet. Even several square feet of roof felt on the flat areas covered by say, 1/2" carpet padding or even a heavy doubled up blanket.

I think a little bit would go a long way there.
 
I'll commit a big faux pas and make a quick on-topic comment. :lol

Some folks explained some of scientific issues well. My opinion, asphalt based stuff like Peel N Seal sucks. Smelly and doesn handle temperature well. Tried Frost King on a riend's S10 and no only does no do a whole lo, doesn' adhere for poop.

You may do a proper job AND sabe $$...only takes 30% of ea panel 2 provide reasonably complete deadening. A roll of RAAMMAT should do a Musang w/ some 2 spare.

PS: My keyboard is broken. Tank god for spell kek. Sorry is so awkwardly phrased
 
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