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New engine and parts

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!@#$%^&*() damn mixed year parts !@#$%^&.

This Frankenstein engine is an 86 block and internals with 66 heads, timing cover and water pump. What a PITA this has been to get the crank, water pump and alt all lined up. Finally got it squared away and the right size belt and moved on the checking the flywheel clutch and bell housing alignment. Since it's an 86 302 block and guts, I bought a stock replacement steel 50oz flywheel for that year. Diameter is correct and the 157 teeth all work. I go to fit my old Centerforce clutch (from the 289) and no go. Damn mounting holes are in a completely different location !&^@#$&^*. Parts tore is closed, 2 hr round trip to get a stock replacement clutch (if anyone has one). So much for getting it dropped back into the car this weekend.


Any ideas?

Bueller?
 
sorry about the troubles... I have nothing of value to add, but was curious why it sounds like you are giving up track days, or just planning more street driving? I mean do you really want to trailer the car to town so you can drive it on paved roads?



:sm_NTA
 
"lethal289" said:
sorry about the troubles... I have nothing of value to add, but was curious why it sounds like you are giving up track days, or just planning more street driving? I mean do you really want to trailer the car to town so you can drive it on paved roads?



:sm_NTA
Click to expand...

Not giving up track days, just on hold for awhile. In the meantime, a street engine is a ton cheaper to get it back on the road. Will be moving closer to town and off the gravel roads, soon.
 
Yep.....been there with the mix and match.....twice.....or maybe more......not sure I would do it again. Adding air is another issue.....good luck.

You could drill to match...one way or the other.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
Not giving up track days, just on hold for awhile.
Click to expand...


I bet you could get some valuable seat time with that motor. Put a 5.5K rev limiter on it. You'll get used to the lower RPM and have some fun. Taking the same track at a lower speed will net some driving improvements. Learning how to go fast with a slow car is still fun. Just my $ .02
 
Called around all the parts stores within an hour drive trying to find a clutch that'll work with the flywheel. Guy at O'Reilly's said he had one that fits an OEM flywheel. I grab the flywheel and head out. 50 minutes later, I arrive at the store, walk in and plunk the FW down on the counter. Guy grabs the clutch and I set it on the FW. Fits the same as my Centerforce *^$@$^&(*&%$#@$^())(&^%$#$!@#$%^&*
Check to see if they have a flywheel....Nope &^^$#$#*%#@!@#$%^&*

F it, I'm done for the day. I guess I'll go watch Bowling Green beat up on the Gators.
 
Is the flywheel a 10 i nch or 10 1/2 inch. Summit sales a 10 1/2 inch Ford motorsport that I use and it fits the 10 1/2 inch flywheel. I am talking about the pressure plate of course.
 
"6t6red" said:
Is the flywheel a 10 i nch or 10 1/2 inch. Summit sales a 10 1/2 inch Ford motorsport that I use and it fits the 10 1/2 inch flywheel. I am talking about the pressure plate of course.
Click to expand...

No where does it list the FW as 10" or 10 1/2", but the Centerforce 10" clutch I have fits the flywheel, it just doesn't align up with the bolt holes. I found a clutch set from the same manufacturer, just have to wait till Tuesday to check with a tech.
 
Making some progress today. Got the bell housing aligned and checked it by test fitting the old T10. Slid in like budda!. Cleaned it up and put a fresh coat of paint on.


Engine2012.jpg
 
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Got the valve cover and oil pan studs installed. Fit the fuel pump and installed the oil pickup for the Canton pan. Once I get the pan cleaned up, I'll test fit for pickup clearance. Plenty more work for tomorrow!


Engine20122.jpg
 
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On the 50 oz flywheel, double check the pressure plate bolt holes. IIRC, they have metric threads.
 
"stangg" said:
On the 50 oz flywheel, double check the pressure plate bolt holes. IIRC, they have metric threads.
Click to expand...

Great idea, would've never thought of that!!
 
Always nice to see the next planned explosion under construction.....

It is looking good. Being delayed like you are is a pain for sure.
 
Talked to the tech guy at Summit this morning. Found out the flywheel is a 10 1/2" with metric threads for the pressure plate (8mmx1.25). He found the correct PP and disc to go with the flywheel and I had him throw in the ARP bolts. I'm not gonna hold my breath, but it sounds like it should all work. Parts should be here by Friday. Other than cleaning the engine bay up, the motor's ready to go back in.

I've had the car up on stands (front only) since Friday. It's STILL dripping goo from the explosion!
 
"silverblueBP" said:
It's STILL dripping goo from the explosion!
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You should have cleaned the seat back when it happened. Now you're going to for sure have stains.
 
Any idea what part #'s the tech ordered?

I'm a little concerned here... Your present 289 clutch - is it a 3-finger style? Will the new one be 3-finger or diaphragm style? IIRC, every pressure plate I've seen for the metric/5.0 flywheel is diaphragm. I know some people have had difficulty getting a diaphragm style clutch to work properly with the old-style linkage.

If I was the parts guy, I would have told you to use your existing clutch with a different flywheel - like this Fidanza that's 50oz and drilled for both clutch styles: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FIZ-286500/ :shrug

OTOH, maybe there is a 3-finger PP drilled for a 5.0 flywheel or they've made diaphragm clutches work better with old-style linkage. IDK... :confu

:part :part :part
 
"BobV" said:
Any idea what part #'s the tech ordered?

I'm a little concerned here... Your present 289 clutch - is it a 3-finger style? Will the new one be 3-finger or diaphragm style? IIRC, every pressure plate I've seen for the metric/5.0 flywheel is diaphragm. I know some people have had difficulty getting a diaphragm style clutch to work properly with the old-style linkage.

If I was the parts guy, I would have told you to use your existing clutch with a different flywheel - like this Fidanza that's 50oz and drilled for both clutch styles: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FIZ-286500/ :shrug

OTOH, maybe there is a 3-finger PP drilled for a 5.0 flywheel or they've made diaphragm clutches work better with old-style linkage. IDK... :confu

:part :part :part
Click to expand...

I had/have a Centerforce dual friction diaphragm clutch, worked great. The one the tech guy found that was specified for the FW is a diaphragm as well. Should be fine (fingers crossed).
 
"Horseplay" said:
You should have cleaned the seat back when it happened. Now you're going to for sure have stains.
Click to expand...

Jackwagon
 
"silverblueBP" said:
I had/have a Centerforce dual friction diaphragm clutch, worked great. The one the tech guy found that was specified for the FW is a diaphragm as well. Should be fine (fingers crossed).
Click to expand...
GOOD DEAL - Fingers crossed here as well. You deserve to have something go right! :thu
 
"BobV" said:
I'm a little concerned here... Your present 289 clutch - is it a 3-finger style? Will the new one be 3-finger or diaphragm style? IIRC, every pressure plate I've seen for the metric/5.0 flywheel is diaphragm. I know some people have had difficulty getting a diaphragm style clutch to work properly with the old-style linkage.
Click to expand...
Huh? The Centerforce diaphragm clutch works just fine with the old style linkage. If you remove the over-the-top return spring and rev the engine up really high, the clutch pedal doesn't want to return up. Keep the spring in play and you'll be fine. Or...don't rev the engine so high (and grenade it).
 
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