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Oil pan gasket replacement?

KBMWRS

KBMWRS

sad
Donator
Well I'm dripping/burning oil. Consensus is if it really isn't a problem (engine runs fine) leave it alone. Trying to find the outside leak isn't easy. Looks like front timing cover, oil pan, valve covers. Since it is so varied a source I thought I would do what I could without major surgery.
1967 Fe-390 so its a little different than normal.

I have replaced the valve/rocker cover gaskets. That was fun.

Now I thought I would change out the oil pan gasket, even a new pan maybe. Okay not so immediate now but next.

Question is accessing the bolts for the pan. There is a big chassis/engine brace crossing under the pan and blocking bolt access. While having the car on stands is it okay to remove this bar/brace? Will I get it back on? I haven't investigated yet so what type of gasket is available or recommended? Cork? Rubber? Change the pan?

Probably won't get to it until October. Heading out on a trip again.

Thanks
 
Cross brace is easily removed and re-installed. If it isn't, then you have major problems with your structural integrity. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Before you remove the pan, check the selector seal. For cars that often get parked up, the oil from the convertor will fill the pan and exit the selector seal. But the pan gasket gets the blame. Don't forget trans oils is a different colour and viscosity to engine oil.

My preference for the gasket is rubber/ reusable.

In the words of an immortal............... My Aussie 20c
 
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My advice.
Spray the engine with some solvent/cleaner and use high pressure washer to clean off. Put a bag over the carb if needed.
Drive a couple of miles, park the car about a big carboard and look for some oil drips under the car. That will give you a direction to look for.
( it probably comes from above !! ) :p;)
That U-shape brace isn't gonna be a problem.
my 2 eurocents :p
 
Aussie67 said:
Before you remove the pan, check the selector seal. For cars that often get parked up, the oil from the convertor will fill the pan and exit the selector seal. But the pan gasket gets the blame. Don't forget trans oils is a different colour and viscosity to engine oil.

My preference for the gasket is rubber/ reusable.

In the words of an immortal............... My Aussie 20c
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My bad. But the seals still go on the selector levers/ rods
 
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Not sure why you think I would be anywhere close to the trans. Its the engine oil pan not the trans. Am I missing something? Smart assssses don't answer that.:D
 
Now that I read it again, i can see that. Guess I got side tracked when you were talking about changing the pan/ sump gasket. Down here we call it a sump

Would still suggest a rubber/ reusable gasket. Fel Pto make them


I assume you have cleaned everything like Bruno was suggesting and know the sump is the problem?
 
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Probably won't get to it until October. Heading out on a trip in a week...for about 6 weeks. I'll get a rubber gasket and will give a wash to see where the leak is from.
 
KBMWRS said:
Probably won't get to it until October. Heading out on a trip in a week...for about 6 weeks. I'll get a rubber gasket and will give a wash to see where the leak is from.
Click to expand...
Always a good reason to not doing the dirty work .........going on a trip.......for 6 weeks !!!!!!!!!! :p
 
If you knew someone with a lift, the job would be much easier. It could be a combination of the oil pan and timing cover and rear main seals. Face it, old motors love leaking oil everywhere!
 
kb3 said:
If you knew someone with a lift, the job would be much easier. It could be a combination of the oil pan and timing cover and rear main seals. Face it, old motors love leaking oil everywhere!
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You are spoiled Mike !!!
 
Mike:

Until you locate the point(s) where the engine oil is actually leaving the engine, randomly replacing gaskets/seals is like firing the parts cannon into the darkness. Start with diagnosis.

Some additional points to consider:
- if your PCV valve is not functioning properly, excess pressure in the crankcase can push oil out of virtually every gasket/seal. Make sure the valve is working properly;
- rear main seals are often leakers over time, especially with rarely driven cars;
- Intake manifold gaskets/end seals can seep anywhere along the perimeter of the intake with the drips traveling toward the back of the block and then dripping down onto the garage floor;
- a dried out rubber seal at the base of the distributor can be a source of leaks;
- Timing cover gaskets (including the fuel pump) can leak from multiple places;

My point is short of an engine tear down and reseal, you have lots of suspects to consider. Definitely take Ken up on his generous offer of the lift in his shop. Standing up while working from below is infinitely preferable to lying on your back in the driveway. I'll always remember my older son who works in the automotive field coming over to help me remove a stubborn starter on my former daily driver. While we were both under the car he tells me: "Dad, you need to get a lift, I'm too old for this $hit" My response: "You're too old????????????"

Regards, Jeff
 
I did offer my lift to Mike too !! But he is a bit picky , he loves a clean and pritty environment for his leaky vehicle !!! :rolleyes:
 
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