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Once blasted, then what?

Havok1

Havok1

Member
Well, I finally took the stang to get blasted last week. Walter (the guy I took it to) said it would probably be done this week. This kinda took me by surprise because I wasn't expecting to get it back so quick. So now I have no idea what I should do with it when I get it back. Well, I kinda have a plan, but need some guidance. Here is the "plan."

1. When I get the call its ready, go pick up the car and haul it to my parent's house since my Dad has an open bay in the barn and has the tools necessary (and the skills to us them) that I will need next.
2. Decide what metal needs to be replaced/patched so I can make a run to NPD in Charlotte and pick it all up at once.
3. Start the body work with the help of my Dad and Granddad.

So what I need to know is what to do with the body when I get it back to prevent rusting. My head tells me I should prime it or something, but I don't know if I should since I'm going to start the body work pretty quick afterward. If I do need to prime it, would regular gray primer work or should I use something different? Thanks in advance for the help guys and gals. I'm really exited about the project getting going again. This will be a big step. I'll post pics when I get it back.
 
I would prime it with red oxide and then sand off later when work is to be performed. I wouldn't risk alot of surface rust. Just my own preferance.
 
Wow, i was just reading your old thread today about deciding to sand the car yourself. What happened to that? It looked like the stripper was doing a good job.

Are you able to spray a car? IMHO the best idea would be to use a good Epoxy Sealer/ primer, Like PPG's DP90. Coat everything, then you only need to worry about re sanding the seams where the new metal will join the old. A lot of body review i read, even say to apply you filler on top of the DP90 and re-coat, trapping the porous bondo between sealed layers. I wouldn't use other primers, until the metal is sealed from any chance of forming new surface rust. Just my .02 I will be interested to see what other have to say on this one.
 
"lethal289" said:
Wow, i was just reading your old thread today about deciding to sand the car yourself. What happened to that? It looked like the stripper was doing a good job.
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Life happened. Just couldn't find the time to make it productive. With a pregnant wife and a 3 1/2 year old son, I couldn't justify spending family time stripping the car. And while I have several days off during the week to work on it, the weather never seemed to cooperate. I made the decision with it soon turning cold and pushing me inside the garage to work, I would just go with having it blasted.

"lethal289" said:
Are you able to spray a car?
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Yes, my Dad has all the tools necessary to spray the car once at his house. I'll start checking out the PPG DP90. Where might I pick it up? Would an auto paint store carry it?
 
Congrats on the new member to the family!
"Havok1" said:
I'll start checking out the PPG DP90. Where might I pick it up? Would an auto paint store carry it?
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Any auto paint store that carries PPG will have it. I hear theres now a lead free version too, but i have no experience with it.
 
You definitely want to spray the exposed metal with some sort of primer ASAP. When I had my car media blasted, I paid extra to have the media blaster apply an epoxy primer immediately after stripping the paint. The epoxy primer was a request from my paint & body guy.

Since you have the means to spray a car, I'd recommend consulting a professional for advice. I believe it's important to apply complimentary products or you could have adhesion issues later down the line.

Here's a good link that has a ton of good info about paint & body work: http://www.autobodystore.com/home.shtml#

Post some pics of your car when it returns from the media blaster. It's always interesting to see what lies beneath the old paint and/or body filler... hopefully, you don't find too many surprises.
 
hopefully, you don't find too many surprises.
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I don't think he will. I trek'ed over to this place last Winter and helped him with a few disassembly tasks. The car's body seemed in great shape. I'll be very surprised if the blasting uncovers any rot.


Brain,

This is a delicate matter, but you're doing it at the better part of the year around here. With our high humidity in this area, the blasted body in May through Sep would have flash rust over most of the surface area by the time you towed it back to your Dad's. I've blasted some areas in the AM, came back out in the PM only to see flash rust on everything I'd just blasted.

This time of year the humidity is lower, but still present.

You will want to EPOXY PRIME (the DP90 is perfect) as fast as humanly possible after the metal is stripped clean. Is it possible that the blaster can do it at his facility? This is something that they usually do for an additional cost that may be worth it in the end.
 
+1 on the epoxy prime asap program.

Filler can be done over top of epoxy as long as you hit it with 80 grit first.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Is it possible that the blaster can do it at his facility? This is something that they usually do for an additional cost that may be worth it in the end.
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I'm pretty sure that Walter doesn't do any spraying. He works out of a shop at his house and he even asked me what my plans were when I got it back and to be sure to spray it with something. Here's hoping that I can get to the car quick enough with the epoxy.
 
Alright, so I've decided to try and stick with the same brand primer as paint. Thing is I have no idea about paint. Heard that PPG paint is good. Guess a new thread is in order.
 
If you and your Dad are going to apply the paint and are unsure about which brand of primer to use. Either ask this same question to the counter guys at your local paint supply store..... or stop into any body shop and ask to speak to one of their experienced painters and ask him.
 
One of the best features of DPxxLF (PPG Epoxy Primer), other than it's great durability, quality, sealing, etc., is that once it cures (1 week top), it is compatible with almost anything and everything. Just scuff and shoot!
 
"daveSanborn" said:
If you and your Dad are going to apply the paint and are unsure about which brand of primer to use. Either ask this same question to the counter guys at your local paint supply store..... or stop into any body shop and ask to speak to one of their experienced painters and ask him.
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I'm pretty sure I'll have someone else do the paint. Dad and I will do the primer, but he's already said he wouldn't feel comfortable putting paint on the car. There is a place that sells auto paint (esp PPG) in Downtown, so I'm going to try and stop by there in the next day or two and talk to them.

"Midlife" said:
One of the best features of DPxxLF (PPG Epoxy Primer), other than it's great durability, quality, sealing, etc., is that once it cures (1 week top), it is compatible with almost anything and everything. Just scuff and shoot!
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Good to know. Thanks Randy.
 
Got the call today that the car is ready. I'm hopefully going to pick it up on Saturday! Pics coming as soon as I can get them.
 
Once blasted, one usually has to fall asleep in a strange location and position, and then comes the hangover when you wake up.
 
"Havok1" said:
Got the call today that the car is ready. I'm hopefully going to pick it up on Saturday! Pics coming as soon as I can get them.
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So, as of yesterday, your car has been completely blasted, and it's sitting with bare metal until Sat? Plan on having to scrub it down with an acid wash and baking soda before priming, because there's a strong possibility you'll have flash rust by Saturday.

I used Metal Ready on my bare metal to stop surface rust (made by POR-15).

MR_MetalReady_300.jpg


Looking forward to seeing what you got to work with.
 
"garner67" said:
So, as of yesterday, your car has been completely blasted, and it's sitting with bare metal until Sat?
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It is what it is. I'd rather have picked it up yesterday, but work and having to rely on others for the truck and trailer to pull it, Saturday is the best I could do. I'll deal with the surface rust thats there.
 
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