kb3
Well-Known Member
Product sheet does not call for reducer either. The activator is dependent upon temperature.
-
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
Paint newbie questions
- Thread starter kb3
- Start date
Product sheet does not call for reducer either. The activator is dependent upon temperature.
What made you use this brand of paint? Is it cheap? I've used a few different brands over the years. Always go back to PPG.
Is the clear super thin out of the can? From your pic, it looks thick and doesn't dry slow enough to let it flow out.
Is the clear super thin out of the can? From your pic, it looks thick and doesn't dry slow enough to let it flow out.
Take your sample piece back to the paint supplier for them to inspect. Bet they recommend a reducer! As mentioned back in the thread when it first started, using a further reduced clear as the final coat to "melt" in, flow and blend with prior coats typically yields the flattest end result.
How much did the clear cost? Not always true but you get what you pay for in many instances. Plus, being in Cali you can't get the really good stuff anymore. VOCs are the devil!
How much did the clear cost? Not always true but you get what you pay for in many instances. Plus, being in Cali you can't get the really good stuff anymore. VOCs are the devil!
But it does list one right at the top. I can't see (looking at your pics) how that stuff could have worked without a reducer, honestly. I'd like to blame you...well, your technique, but it looks like you held a pretty even hand while spraying. Helps when the surfaces are not that large.
What spray gun and tip are you using? What is the current temperature? What is your spraying distance? And don't post that damn sheet again.
kb3
Well-Known Member
It was the brand that I was given at the paint shop. Maybe time to switch paint shops. I don't have any basis to say if it was thin or not.
kb3
Well-Known Member
I took the piece back to the shop the first time. I sprayed a third clear coat that time and they said that was the problem. Only did two coats this time. I have no idea what it cost, but a half a pint of paint, reducer and clear ran just over $100.
kb3
Well-Known Member
The gun is a Harbor Freight gun (hey it has good reviews and was worth the try) the tip size is 1.4mm. The current temp is 60F and the distance was 8-10" as suggested by a painter at the paint shop.
kb3
Well-Known Member
It uses an activator, the product sheet shows a CRV21 AM and AS. For normal and slow. They gave me a CRV21AF, fast reducer. Maybe the medium would have worked better? I would tend to blame me. Remember, this is my first, ok second try, at painting.
Sigh.......Invest in a REAL automotive paint gun (and paint). Devilbliss, SATA, etc...Sure they cost more, but just like anything, stuff is cheap for a reason. It's all about fluid and air flow, how the paint gets atomized. Would you use a K-Mart carb on your HP engine?
Years and years ago, I painted two cars and an RV for family. They would not pay for the real automotive paint and that shit looked a lot like your crap. I learned long ago to stay away from off brands when doing auto paint.
kb3
Well-Known Member
The paint looks really good and is a great match to the Kona Blue metallic on the car. The paint is not the same brand as the clear. A half pint of paint cost $75. The clear could be the cheap (aka problem child) part of the equation. But I trusted the shop. They have been around for 50+ years. I will try a different shop.
Unless you're going for the "Hood" look instead of the show car look.
kb3
Well-Known Member
I have no problem spending the money, if I decide I want to paint. This was a test to see what was involved. Many folks have good results using the gun I did, so before I shelled out big money it was worth the shot. I am not convinced the orange peel is a gun problem. The base coat was amazing before I ruined it with clear
kb3
Well-Known Member
These parts are for a wing on my son's Focus. Not a show car by any means. Just a good chance to try my hand. Considering one shop wanted $800 to shoot the wing, I am still money ahead and its a great learning experience.
Is the BC the same brand as the CC? If not, then yes, you need to find someone that has all the same brand that is made to work together. Dupont, PPG, HOK, etc... Use their primer, sealer, BC, CC, reducers, wax & grease remover. It will certainly lighten your wallet, but in the end it's worth it. I painted my car in 02 and other than the bugs and chips from track time, it looks just as good today.
When I last painted the car in 02, I think I spent about $2K on all the materials excluding the guns. I already had those and used them almost weekly at work.
kb3
Well-Known Member
I truly appreciate the help and advice given here. I am going to try a different shop and give it another try. I actually enjoyed the process....just not the end result!
Ken, a good rule to live by is that if your clear is cheaper than your base it's going to be a bad day. That HF gun is great for primer and maybe even laying a base color. Not clear. Spend some time on the Web Googling gun ratings and suggestions. You do not need a $800 SATA or such. I dropped less than $200 on the gun I sprayed my clear with and was very happy. In the worst area I had a finish like an old OEM paint job. Most of the paint was really flat.
You have a couple options for where you sit right now. I'm betting you can sand that down and buff it out to be acceptable. You may have to hit it again with another coat and rebuff. Hard to tell from a picture how deep the clear is at the base of some of the "pitted" holes. Me, I'd wet sand that thing down to get it close to flat and see what it looks like buffed. If you sand through to color...spray it again. Light coats with minimal time between. 15-20 minutes max.
Next time buy a better clear. When I go to finish painting the F1 I will likely grab something from House of Color if compatible. They make nice paints and are reasonably priced.
You have a couple options for where you sit right now. I'm betting you can sand that down and buff it out to be acceptable. You may have to hit it again with another coat and rebuff. Hard to tell from a picture how deep the clear is at the base of some of the "pitted" holes. Me, I'd wet sand that thing down to get it close to flat and see what it looks like buffed. If you sand through to color...spray it again. Light coats with minimal time between. 15-20 minutes max.
Next time buy a better clear. When I go to finish painting the F1 I will likely grab something from House of Color if compatible. They make nice paints and are reasonably priced.