johnpsz
Member
Just be thankful they haven't invented smell-avision yet. Here is part 2 of removing the headliner.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
Terry - Thanks for the heads up on saving the 2 wires that held that rear on in place. I haven't made my mind up on a factory style replacement headliner or an ABS plastic one from MTF yet, so I will keep everything (minus the stinky, mouse poop covered liner itself) just in case.FYI, the bows are not all the same so be sure to keep them in the order removed and mark the holes each were in as there are multiple positions on some. If I recall correctly, the rear bow is for sure different than all the rest (at least in a fastback!). Also when you were ripping out the headliner I think I heard you say something about some wires were hanging off the last bow. There should be two and don't lose them either. Those are used to maintain the position of that last bow against he tension of the liner when installed. Like most re-pop parts originals are better so save and reuse whatever you can and bows certainly fall into the save category.
If you're tall, you'll appreciate the MTF plastic headliner. I'm 6'5" and now my head doesn't rub on the headliner.Terry - Thanks for the heads up on saving the 2 wires that held that rear on in place. I haven't made my mind up on a factory style replacement headliner or an ABS plastic one from MTF yet, so I will keep everything (minus the stinky, mouse poop covered liner itself) just in case.
And that reason is surely cost. Ease of assembly with the modern one piece formed stuff. It can also act as sound deadening and heat insulation. I get that in a restomod that modern look can be appealing. I even understand the need/desire for added head clearance. BUT you can't beat the old school beauty of the stock liner. To each their own but as Ken surely knows...my way is always better.There is a reason those are now longer used in today's cars.
So, am I correct? Is that rear trunk brace supposed to go behind the frame rail on the drive side like It does on the passenger side?I was just looking at that trunk brace piece today when I went to a warehouse that sells various dynacorn panels. They had a whole corner of just various Mustang pieces. I was picking up new seat risers and floor pans for the coupe.
So, am I correct? Is that rear trunk brace supposed to go behind the frame rail on the drive side like It does on the passenger side?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
So, am I correct? Is that rear trunk brace supposed to go behind the frame rail on the drive side like It does on the passenger side?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
+1Get a copy of this manual... https://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Sealant-Reprint-Assembly-Manual/dp/B00435K8SM
It has all sorts of views showing how all the sheetmetal is attached. With all the metal replacement you are going to be doing, it will be well worth having.
I actually have that and a few others on the way to me right now. I ordered the Body, Chassis, Interior, Wiring, and the Weld Sealant last week and should be here today or tomorrow.Get a copy of this manual... https://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Sealant-Reprint-Assembly-Manual/dp/B00435K8SM
It has all sorts of views showing how all the sheetmetal is attached. With all the metal replacement you are going to be doing, it will be well worth having.
Thanks, it just proves how messed up the back end of my car is.I did find a better picture, you can see it in this photo better
View attachment 30947