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Rapid Rabbit's 70 Stang

Well I got most of the RJM harness installed and it was super easy and well made. :thu
Everything lined up great and didn't take much time at all. Why did I waste so much time with the speed density crap.

I bought a bunch of parts from Corral.net and am waiting for those now.
I got a 3G alternator, a T5 yoke, and an ECM.

I decided to upgrade the atlternator since there was no wiring included with the engine.
so I figured by the time I track all that down and spliced it in, it was easier to get a 3g.

I need to figure out how to hook up the heater hoses to the heater tubes that came with the 5.0.

I tried to mount the stock fan and the mounts on the water pump don't line up. I think the water pump is the wrong one.
When I google the numbers on it, it comes up as a crown vic water pump.
 
For the heater hose I used a combination of the original factory hard line for the 5.0 engine and AN fittings. I cut the tubes off under the throttle body and welded on 10 an bungs. I then used AN hose with push lock fittings so that the hoses could be easily removed. That has come in handy about 4 times since the engine went in.
 
That's a great idea. I don't have a welder but maybe I can get it done somewhere.

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Pat does this set up look like it may work for you?
2049722770070710241S600x600Q85.jpg


If so, let me know and I can get you the part numbers for the hoses. This installation is in a '69 Cougar with an EFI 5.0 and I don't know how close the Cougar firewall set up is to yours.
 
I think those hoses would be too long. Mine look closer than that.

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I got the 3g alternator I bought off Corral.net on Monday and did a test fit.

A little grinding with the dremel and it bolted right in. :thu
I still need to wire it up though. Can I remove the stock regulator completely or do I still need it for anything?
DSC00161.jpg

DSC00162.jpg


I am still waiting on a bunch of parts so I am at a stand still for a bit.
I am picking up some fuel line today and need to get that in next.
I spent over 2 hours running around from store to store yesterday looking for a heater hose that had the right bend to line up the 5.0 stock heater tube. I think I found one that may work. I will try it tomorrow. Then I can get the intake and throttle body finished up.
 
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"RapidRabbit" said:
I still need to wire it up though. Can I remove the stock regulator completely or do I still need it for anything?
Click to expand...

Looking good Pat! Google "3G wiring diagram" and tons of stuff pops up. Looks like the old VR can be removed.
 
I'm running an alternator out of a 94-95 mustang. Which is similar to a 3g, but a bigger case and higher output. I yanked out the regulator many, many years ago and tossed it in the trash. Never had a problem...except one dumbarse moment...when I installed the alt....there's only one wire to hook up, and I left the garage without hooking it up. I made it about 1/2 way to work before the voltage got too low for the computer. Got a nice ride home on the tow truck...

Finding those heater connections are a pain. I couldn't find one to fit...IIRC, one of the hard tubes is smaller than the other. I finally gave up and did a splice. If you can find a hose that will fit the lower tube, please let me know the part number!!! My next idea is to make my own hard tube.
 
"66gt350" said:
I'm running an alternator out of a 94-95 mustang. Which is similar to a 3g, but a bigger case and higher output. I yanked out the regulator many, many years ago and tossed it in the trash. Never had a problem...except one dumbarse moment...when I installed the alt....there's only one wire to hook up, and I left the garage without hooking it up. I made it about 1/2 way to work before the voltage got too low for the computer. Got a nice ride home on the tow truck...

Finding those heater connections are a pain. I couldn't find one to fit...IIRC, one of the hard tubes is smaller than the other. I finally gave up and did a splice. If you can find a hose that will fit the lower tube, please let me know the part number!!! My next idea is to make my own hard tube.
Click to expand...

The lower tube is bigger than the upper. I can't find one that will go all the way to the heater core, so I will most likely end up with a splice for the lower hose. I am hoping to get out and try it tomorrow night. I'll let you know if I come up with anything.
 
Don't know if this helps (lifted from James W's awesome web page);
Use a Gates 20662pn 90d 3/4-5/8 hose on the lower(3/4) tube, then use a Gates 28625 90d 5/8x5/8 hose connector to splice/connect the lower heater hose coming from the firewall. The upper heater hose can be used with no splice.

http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Engine.htm

Hope this helps you, kip
 
That's actually the page I have referencing most during this swap.
I tried finding that model number hose and came up empty. Plus my heater has a different location for the top hose, its on top of the heater .

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Sweet looking Pat! I still have to do the alternator mod to my motor (also a 3G install). Due to the fact my drive train came out of an SSP car, it had a heavy duty externally regulated alternator. I don't feel like even MORE wiring work to get it to work! Curious as to how you're addressing your oil dipstick and tube?
 
I drilled the hole on the timing cover for it, but have not modified the alternator bracket yet.

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Well it's been an entire month since I got anything done on the car.
I guess it was depression from missing the power tour. :steer

I got a couple hours in the garage today. Some more slow progress.

I got the power steering pump brackets swapped out and decided to paint the new one black to blend in a little more.
I am not sure how to get the pulley back on though? Do I need a press? :shrug
IMAG0170.jpg


I drilled the hole in the firewall and ran the computer harness in. That was a seriously tight squeeze.
IMAG0176.jpg


Mounted the relays and fuses .
IMAG0182.jpg



Picked up a new water pump. The one that came on it had the wrong pulley pattern. Ran out time before I could get it on.
IMAG0180.jpg


And just for comparison Here is the T5 yoke vs The C4 yoke.
I also bought new U-joints as long as the drive shaft was out. I still need to clean up the shaft too.
IMAG0181.jpg
 
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Do you hear that? Sounds like an engine about ready to fire to me! Keep up the good work!! :thu

p.s. If the P/S pump you have is the one I'm thinking, there's a threaded tool that first screws into the center. You then tighten an outer nut on the tool and it draws the pulley back onto the shaft.
 
oh man, I completely forgot to send you the pump I have. I see you got some brackets anyway. Sorry!!!
 
"tarafied1" said:
oh man, I completely forgot to send you the pump I have. I see you got some brackets anyway. Sorry!!!
Click to expand...

Don't worry about it. I was going to email you and let you know I found one locally.
I figured since you were over being a ninja and hunting bin laden I didn't want to bug you.

"Ponyman66" said:
Do you hear that? Sounds like an engine about ready to fire to me! Keep up the good work!! :thu

p.s. If the P/S pump you have is the one I'm thinking, there's a threaded tool that first screws into the center. You then tighten an outer nut on the tool and it draws the pulley back onto the shaft.
Click to expand...

yup, give me a couple more years and she will be back on the road. lol

I bought a tool to pull the pulley and it worked great, but I cant seem to get it to push it back on? Maybe I'm doing it wrong.
This is the one I got.
image_1955.jpg

I guess I should have gotten this set instead.
image_824.jpg
 
Went to harbour freight today and got the other pulley installer. Installed waterpump and power steering pump today.
6b0a787b-4252-41d2.jpg


Test fit the belt I picked up. Doesn't look like it is going to work unless I routed it wrong.
6b0a787b-4292-3a81.jpg


Put the fan on and slipped in the radiator for a test fit. Does this look like enough clearance? Have about 1 1/4 inches. Should I use a shroud?
http://tapatalk.com
/mu/6b0a787b-4346-47cf.jpg
6b0a787b-435e-aa3f.jpg

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