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rattle can paint/primer thoughts?

6

67resto-coupe

Member
so i finally think i've gotten past my tuning gremlins enough where i can drive my '67 around. only thing is it pains me to see a black repop fender, a partially stripped pass fender and the rest of the car in various stages of chipping/peeling. it's nasty. heck, i've only left the hood off, so my engine will draw attention from the paint/body.

do you guys/gals recommend any brand or type of rattle can primer or paint? i was hoping to at least get a uniform look on the car until i could afford a new paint job.
i've seen some local younger lads driving old mopars in brown and grey primer, but i know nothing of this topic.
thanks for the help.
 
Personally, I think anything you do using a rattle can will need to come off later. I would consider investing in a air compressor and a cheap gun that will shot epoxy primer. You can then work to strip paint and at least get a good epoxy primer on the car. From there you can start doing body work and primer as you go. Then you can decide if you want to finish the job or find someone that will finish the work you start.
 
Yeah, using rattle can paint and expecting any kind of protection from the elements for any length of time isn't really a good idea.

As previously stated, you can pickup a cheap paint gun (under $50), a gallon of automotive epoxy primer and then play around with it until you get a good fan/spray pattern with if you have to a rented/borrowed air compressor. Rattle can paints/primers really aren't going to seal out the elements and you'll be doing yourself no favors using them.

local younger lads
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This alone should tell you a lot.....
 
"mustangstofear" said:
Stay away from the rattle cans, stick with a good direct to metal primer. I use u-pol and valspar primers. Rich.
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I think the rattlecan primer U-pol has would be suitable. At 15 bucks+ a can you'd save money buying a gallon of epoxy primer and a gun.

Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) sells some excellent products at reasonable prices.

Steve (Sellersrodshop) uses their products and is quite happy with them.
 
i would recommend the brown rattle can primer.

that way when the rust starts coming thru due to the thin rattle can primer absorbing moisture it will match the brown.
 
I have a few cans of the u-pol rattle can Etch primer in my shop....I use it whenever i rub down to bear metal and need some temporary protection without having to mix up primer then shoot and wash the gun for a tiny little patch...... in saying that my car is never outdoors and i have a dehumidifer in the shop too..

I have had my car media blasted, then a coat of etch primer and 2 coats of high build primer to seal it so i would cry if i got some flash rust on it...
 
Ok I have an add-on to this question. I bought a can of self-etching primer because the garage my car is in also houses my motorcycle, my dad's motorcycle, and a bunch of other stuff we don't want painted. Since, after this topic, I will be getting a gun, how do you recommend setting up my garage to protect everthing in it when I spray (I would like to do as much as possible by myself so I can save some $$$).

Also, does this stuff need to be thinned? And how do you keep dust and stuff from getting into it after spraying?

Thanks guys.
 
Here's an in-progress picture of my '66 getting painted in my shop. I temporarily attached (with screws) to the ceiling 1x2 firring strips from which I stapled onto plastic sheeting that hangs 2' below the floor. Secure the plastic sheeting along the floor by laying 2x4's along the perimeter.

When spraying, the garage door is opened and box fans are stategically placed in front of holes cut into the hanging plastic. Not visible (behind me when I took the photo) is another hole in the plastic that has a 24x24" home AC filter taped to the plastic and the back window of the shop is opened to allow for the fans to suck air through the filter/window. It's not anywhere near as nice as a professional paint booth, but it's worked for over a dozen paint jobs.

Visible (barely) through the plastic is my Harley and also my wifes Harley, my son's at the time custom chopper and his completed '68 Mustang (all covered just in case).

3_07_09_08_7_07_10_2.JPG
 
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Love the reuse of the wrapping paper there Dave. Gotta remember that one to get rid of the rolls the wife buys from the kids next door.
 
Um, order a $5 part from NPD and you'll likely have enough wrapping paper and cardboard for an entire Christmas!
 
All primers have to be activated, but reducing them depends on how thick you want it. I would not worry about the dirt in the primer i doubt you will get that much. Rich.
 
"Robs66Coupe" said:
Dave, do you have a couple more pics? That'd be a big help.
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Sure..... there's a few more in my gallery, but none that really show you anything besides plastic sheeting surrounding the car. In this picture you can see (behind the car) where an intake fan is still secured (taped) to the plastic.


3_07_09_08_6_44_39_1.JPG
 
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That's a sweet paint job. I love the look of the stripes. I'll probably add stripes to mine (in 30 years when i get there!!). Mine's red right now, but I discovered that it was originally midnight green, which I was happy to find out. I went to the all ford nationals at Carlisle and I saw 2 green mustangs out of the whole lot, so I think I'll go back to green for originality's sake. I'll take some pics tonight when I'm over there and post 'em up here tonight or tomorrow. Currently I'm working on the passenger side toeboard/torque box/firewall. Then I'll move to the driver's side, then probably to the back end and floors..... Anyway, look for pics tomorrow!
 
I would go with the cheap gun an epoxy primer also.
Here's a shot of my garage spray booth.Only painted the motor compartment,dash and misc small parts . Just used some plastic drop cloths attached to the garage door tracks .For the front and rear of the booth i used the thin overspray plastic you can buy at the paint store. Its about 12 ft x 400 ft for 30 bucks.
Then opened the garage door about a foot . We had a fan at the back of the car and the rear door cracked open


The bottom pic shows the door only cracked open,that was after the painting was done. trying to keep the heat in.
 
I thought you needed some sort of special air filtration system for a paint booth? If all one needs is some plastic sheeting and some fans... heck I just might be able to paint Gertrude myself.
 
Yeah.... stapling plastic sheeting to the ceiling is the hard part. After that's done the car pretty much paints itself.


:lol
 
"Kats66Pny" said:
I thought you needed some sort of special air filtration system for a paint booth? If all one needs is some plastic sheeting and some fans... heck I just might be able to paint Gertrude myself.
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Kat if you paint Gertrude yourself, you will be my idol! I keep saying I am going to paint the 65 myself, but everytime I start to research it, I get chicken....I am going to paint one of my trailers and the other trailers fenders, maybe I will gain the confidence to do the car. It sure would be much more affordable and would happen sooner.

Mel
 
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