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Rusty frame rails

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
Donator
Well I opened up a can of worms today. :roul
Removed the front bumper brackets while I had the bumper off and found this................

IMAG0414.jpg

IMAG0416.jpg


I was looking online at patch panels and saw these. What do I need here? :gs

http://www.cjponyparts.com/frame-rail-l ... 0/p/M165L/
M165L.jpg


http://www.cjponyparts.com/frame-patch- ... 0/p/M169R/
M169R.jpg
 
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First thing I would look at is how far back does the rust go. You could have a bigger can of worms than is showing there.
 
To me it looks limited to the area behind where the bracket plate bolted to the rail. Get poking around there and see what you have to deal with. As things go, this isn't one of the hardest repairs to try yourself.
 
Please be aware that the location of the bracket bolt holes on the repro frame rails are about 1/8" off from the originals, which makes it difficult to align the brackets with the fenders and bumpers correctly.
 
I fab'd the patches for mine on both sides. Mine were like yours. In my opinion it's a fairly easy patch, and one that's hidden as well. Good to learn on in my opion. I will see if I can dig up old pictures of how I did mine to help you decide.

And even if the holes do get off, as Mid stated, you only have to slot the holes on those bumper brackets - no biggie.

I actually slotted both frame horn brackets on mine to move the bumper in a tad anyway.
 
Good to know. Thanks Mid.

I just stopped in at the local shop that does work on the car for me from time to time.
The body shop guy is thinking about $800ish to fix the frame rails.
For that price maybe I could pick up a welder and give it a go. Not sure if I trust myself.

Oh and they had a nice Shelby GT500 vert in the shop. :wor
IMAG0418-1.jpg
 
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"RapidRabbit" said:
Good to know. Thanks Mid.

I just stopped in at the local shop that does work on the car for me from time to time.
The body shop guy is thinking about $800ish to fix the frame rails.
For that price maybe I could pick up a welder and give it a go. Not sure if I trust myself.

Oh and they had a nice Shelby GT500 vert in the shop. :wor
IMAG0418-1.jpg
For $800...trust yourself.
 
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800 bux :wtf Now, I know I can't afford someone to do the work for me. That really is a easy patch to make or buy or replace :thu I'd hate to get them to quote me a RandR of a complete frame rail.
Bill
 
Well to be fair, he only looked at the pictures since the car wasn't there. Not knowing how deep the rust goes. He was just ballparking it for both sides. I guess he was figuring 4 to 5 hours for each side?


Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
"RapidRabbit" said:
Well to be fair, he only looked at the pictures since the car wasn't there. Not knowing how deep the rust goes. He was just ballparking it for both sides. I guess he was figuring 4 to 5 hours for each side?


Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

I wasn't picking on your guy, just the paying someone to do the work in general. I wouldn't be in this hobby if I had to pay someone to do the work for me.
Bill
 
well man I feel so bad for ya, all the trouble you have been having and now this. I guess you just need to let me come up there and take it off your hands... :hide
 
I posted this in your other thread:

"lethal289" said:
reminds me of what i found when i took the bumper off on my 67.
rust2.jpg


So i used a grinder and cut it all out, then got a new front frame rail (from laurel mountain mustang) and welded it back in.

rust1.jpg


Naturally it was cleaned down to bare metal before welding.

But as a suggestion, if you dont want to try to weld it yourself, you can prep everything, get them set in place exactly where you need them to be, and contact a welding company out of the phone book, or even somebody looking for work on craigslist. If the prep works done it shouldn't take more than an hour or two, so there shouldn't be a problem to keep the price under a couple hundred dollars.
 
"67 Fastback" said:
I wasn't picking on your guy, just the paying someone to do the work in general. I wouldn't be in this hobby if I had to pay someone to do the work for me.
Bill

It does get expensive if you have to pay someone to do some of the work.
I just know my limits and don't want to hack up the car.

"tarafied1" said:
well man I feel so bad for ya, all the trouble you have been having and now this. I guess you just need to let me come up there and fix it for ya.. :hide


OK, I'll let you....... I figured that's what you meant to say. lol :roll

I will probably order the patch panels and cut it out myself and clean everything up. Then we will see if I feel like trying it.
 
Pat the inner front portion on the right side of my car (under the battery tray), was pretty pitted with a few pin holes. Instead of buying the frame rail extension (or the whole section), I just determined how far back it was rusted. After measuring it I got a piece of 16ga sheet and had the flanges bent. I had them extend out a little farther than I needed. I then sectioned it in and ground it flush. You can't tell it was ever repaired. While I have the luxury of welding it myself, if you can get it all prep'd to weld in by someone else, then finish it off yourself I guarantee it'd be a LOT cheaper than $800! For me to get the "patch" made it cost $20, that included the price of the steel. Mine was also larger than what it appears you need because I replaced the entire section of the "box" EXCEPT the area that's rusted on yours. If you go this route, just make sure to measure from outside to outside dimension and have a sheet metal shop slap it into a brake and bend it for you. By having your pieces formed you could also get all the bolt holes in the proper locations.
 
the patch panels are under $20 so I will probably just buy those and see if I can do all the prep myself.
Maybe it will be an excuse to pick up a welder and give it a try. :shrug
 
Mine had to be replaced due to the PO breaking the bolts and gas welding the brackets to the bolt stumps. Just got the patch after making sure that was all the damage was and it took longer to cut the old part out then weld the new one in. Make sure you drill the holes for the spot welds before you line everything up............Don't ask me how I know this... :roll

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