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sheetmetal advice

W

wayjon0

Member
Looks like the "rust free" wasn't quite as rust free as I would have liked.

Picture005.jpg


drivers floor
Picture006.jpg


Picture007-1.jpg


Trunk pan
Picture008.jpg


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Inside the back quarter
Picture010-1.jpg


any recommendations on sheetmetal repair books? I have the shop and assembly manuals, but could use help with the removal, patching/repairing.
 
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I don't know any books off the top of my head but there is a wealth of knowledge here to help you out. I bought a few books at the library for various projects like painting and such. Your rust doesn't look that bad. You might be able to get away with making some patch panels.
 
Don't be afraid of sheetmetal work. It's very rewarding to do. Just ask questions, a lot of us have already been through it.

And what color is that??
 
I've been reading up on rear quarter panels and I'm wondering how you deal with the leaded seam at the top and the brass weld at the bottom of the rear glass. The passengers side panel has been replaced at some point in the past halfway up and I'm leaning toward replacing it with a full. The filler is pretty wavy just behind the rear glass.

I got enough of the tar off the floor pan to see that both have small holes in the front and just behind the seat braces.

I also spent some time looking at that front frame rail again and the engine side looks great, but the wheel side is a little chewed up. I'm wondering if I can patch it and keep from having to pull the engine.

Dave thanks for the tip on that tar I was able to get about half of it out tonight.
 
Easy answer is don't worry about the brass, although its a bitch to cut out if you are trying to save the joining piece, but just weld it back up like you would anything else.

Also take a look at the front roof seam, where it attaches to the windshield pillars. If you have any cracks there, you need to dig out the lead there too and reweld it. Replace the lead with a good quality filler.

Another option is to seam the quarter lower than the factor seam and avoid the lead issue altogether. Here is what my body guy did with mine, aka the life of Sig's passenger quarter...

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I added the paint pictures to make the point that if you do the seam well it doesn't matter where you put it, you can't see it in the finished product.

This is why I paid to have this done, I couldn't have done that myself.
 
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sheet metal suppliers?

I live in the Dallas area so Dallas Mustang is local and I can save on shipping, but I was wondering if there is a "preferred" sheet metal supplier.

I read a few things about some companies fitting better than others and just thought I would ask before I order.
 
From what I have heard the Dynacorn sheetmetal is about the best out there. Any supplier that can provide that would work. Check with Dallas Mustang ahead of time to check availabilty, also ask them to go put their hand on the part before they tell you they have it.....ask me how I know.


On a side note, some N Texas folks are looking to get together tomorrow night if your interested.
http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,6658.0.html
 
All the sheetmetal on the back of my car is Dynacorn. Both doors are original Ford, one fender is NOS and the other fender and hood is Ford tooling repro.
 
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