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Shelby drop and lowering spring

67stang said:
You have power steering? If so do you ever have a problem with the rack and pinion hitting the ground?
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Craig recently updated his ride with electric steering assist. There is a thread about it somewhere around here.
 
Oh yeah. Should have answered all the questions!
I do have EPAS. No rack.
The back is Grab-A-Track 5 leaf springs and gas shocks.


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tarafied1 said:
hopefully you can get all the adjustment you need with the strut rod and LCA cam. I'm guessing that at some point whoever did the alignment didn't know this and not that something is bent.
I have the roller perches, the Arning drop and the eccentric eliminators as well as a roller idler arm and springs all from ORP and I used the ORP alignment specs too. I had a local Firestone shop do the alignment. They let me be in the shop and "supervise" or watch. I also got the print out. I told the shop manager what I needed/wanted up front and he was willing to work with me. I did later cut half a coil off the springs to lower it a bit more.
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I absolutely LOVE this car......
 
Ride height DOES affect camber, because suspension geometry is based on the relationship between the wheel and it's position in the wheel well. Changing the ride height affects this relationship. That's why the camber changes as the car goes around a corner; the outside suspension compresses and cambers in (after the UCA relocation anyway), the inside unloads and cambers out. This keeps the tires flat on the pavement. If you compress both sides, by adding weight, braking, cutting coils, etc, both wheels will camber in.

That said, the amount of actual change in camber from springs settling 1/4" would be minimal, particularly without an UCA relocation.

Camber is set at ride height. When you set -0.5* camber, it's at the ride height, not 1" below the current ride height where camber may be -0.7*.

How much the camber changes with suspension travel, ie the camber curve, depends on the lengths of the UCAs and LCAs, as well as their mounting locations. The UCA relocation changes the camber curve. The factory setup is based on the falcon geometry, which keeps the camber more stable throughout suspension travel, providing better stability in a straight line on rough roads. The arning drop geometry alters the curve to give dramatically more negative camber as the suspension compresses, and more positive camber as it unloads, keeping modern radials flatter on the pavement and providing better handling.

Horseplay said:
Yeah, I covered that. Alignment is set when the car is stationary and the set-up takes into consideration how camber will change during suspension operation. The question was about would alignment need adjustment (correction) after the newly installed suspension had "settled" and the discussion was in regard to the fact that the only "settling" that happens relates to the coil spring which WILL NOT affect alignment.
To be clear, "ride height" does NOT affect camber either. Cutting a coil spring to lower the body and close the gap between fender and wheel doesn't change anything in regards to suspension alignment (unless this somehow changes the spring rate). If you change position of a control arm from the stock location (like the Arning drop) that WILL change things as you suggest but that was also covered many pages back.
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3175375 said:
Koni's
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Anyone have any recommendations for decent muffler tips. Under 100$ for both. I just have some straight angled tips. Looks pretty shitty.
Inlet is 2.5 and needs to be about 10 inches long.
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67stang said:
Anyone have any recommendations for decent muffler tips. Under 100$ for both. I just have some straight angled tips. Looks pretty shitty.
Inlet is 2.5 and needs to be about 10 inches long.
417340b936b7925af68b05f8e6fb4cff.jpg



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Update: everything is done and installed (except lower control arm would not go in, need to grind the bearing?)

Anyway removed all shims and wheel spacer!! And it fits because of the new upper control arms!!!.

Working on the alignment next week. Everything seems pretty close so I dont think i will have any issues with the alignment. Which is awesome. I did notice that every time I mess with the camber I pretty much have to drive it to recheck it.

Stance looks awesome. The tires tuck in nicely 225/45/17. My rear is are 235, when my tires wear I think I will go with 235 all the way around.

Question the width lower control arm just does not want to get into the slot where the camber adjustment is. Should I just grind the the bearings width? I so any recommendations how?

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For the Mustang, it should just bolt in. You have to be cognizant of the trailing rods or whatever they are called, but it should be a no-brained. Ask me how I know
 
3175375 said:
For the Mustang, it should just bolt in. You have to be cognizant of the trailing rods or whatever they are called, but it should be a no-brained. Ask me how I know
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Obviously the brace that would t slides into must distorted slightly, I guess I just need to try and muscle it in.

How do you know? Lol


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67stang said:
Obviously the brace that would t slides into must distorted slightly, I guess I just need to try and muscle it in.
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This. I'd bet on side or the other has been bent inward just enough to give you problems. Don't start grinding on the new parts!
 
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