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Shelby drop and lowering spring

Boom said:
The scott drake springs will be fine. My 68 coupe pictured below has: Shelby drop, drake 1" springs, roller perches, and stock repro upper arms from Opentracker.

20150912_120340 by Brett, on Flickr

20150912_120329 by Brett, on Flickr
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That's looks perfect as you can see mine sits up 2.5 inches
69bd3d427e3a5f1a026f57127687662f.jpg
way to high in the front.



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OP, when talking about the arning/shelby drop, and the negative wedge kit, that is only if you want to drop the upper control arm pivot point more than 1". in fact on race cars, shelby actually went to 1 1/4" drop. but then the teams were replacing ball joints after every race.

using lowering springs does not affect the need or lack of need, for a negative wedge kit. and unless you are going racing, auto crossing, or other corner carving exercise, you dont need to drop the upper control arm pivot point more than 1".

as for the negative wedge kit itself, personally i would rather modify the upper control arms by changing the ball joint angle to allow a 1 1/2" drop.
 
rbohm said:
OP, when talking about the arning/shelby drop, and the negative wedge kit, that is only if you want to drop the upper control arm pivot point more than 1". in fact on race cars, shelby actually went to 1 1/4" drop. but then the teams were replacing ball joints after every race.

using lowering springs does not affect the need or lack of need, for a negative wedge kit. and unless you are going racing, auto crossing, or other corner carving exercise, you dont need to drop the upper control arm pivot point more than 1".

as for the negative wedge kit itself, personally i would rather modify the upper control arms by changing the ball joint angle to allow a 1 1/2" drop.
Click to expand...

Rbohm. Thanks for the info. Hey I noticed your icon. N9MB!!! I worked at little bit on the airplane in chino about 22 years ago. Lol.


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67stang said:
Rbohm. Thanks for the info. Hey I noticed your icon. N9MB!!! I worked at little bit on the airplane in chino about 22 years ago. Lol.


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Click to expand...

cool. years ago i thought about building one. never had any money, nor enough time though.
 
rbohm said:
cool. years ago i thought about building one. never had any money, nor enough time though.
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So I think I'm going to stick with: Scott drake 1 inch drop springs, 4 Scott drake performance struts, Scott drake performance perches, dust covers, and just do the Shelby drop and use the existing control arm. I didn't want to go crazy on spending, and really wanted to just get a better stance with hopefully a slight better ride performance.

Does anyone think that this is a bad setup?

Currently Also i do have a Wheel spacer to clear the spindle so obviously my front wheel now sits just barely inside the wheel well lip. Does anyone think my wheel will hit the fender?
34e5133b35e815f234e251f36c8e034a.jpg



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The number one thing you can do to improve the front suspension is to upgrade to roller spring perches. The Drake pieces are still rubber bushings. If you can afford it, invest in roller perches.
 
Horseplay said:
The number one thing you can do to improve the front suspension is to upgrade to roller spring perches. The Drake pieces are still rubber bushings. If you can afford it, invest in roller perches.
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So what about these?
0ebe5dd7015d70b0ddac32a4214460ef.png



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Boom said:
Yes, those are the roller perches.
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Okay I just ordered them!! I think I'm done. Lol. I let you guys know how it turns out in a few weeks.

After this is done how bad will the alignment be? I will get an alignment but just curious if it will be out of wack. Will I really even know?
 
67stang said:
Okay I just ordered them!! I think I'm done. Lol. I let you guys know how it turns out in a few weeks.

After this is done how bad will the alignment be? I will get an alignment but just curious if it will be out of wack. Will I really even know?
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assuming you put your shims back where they belong when you removed them, your alignment should be close enough to get you to the alignment shop for a proper alignment. give the shop these specs for the street;

caster +2-3 degrees
camber -0.5 - -1 degrees
toe in 1/8"

these seem to do well for street cars of our vintage.
 
Before you go anywhere for an alignment, consider doing it yourself. Not very difficult. If you can put the parts on you bought you can do the alignment. I just did mine with the SPC FasTrax tool. Very few modern shops will have a clue on how to do it and will likely pass. Maybe reach out to local car clubs to try and find info on a shop qualified to do it.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...-performance&gclid=CL2QvLTnx9QCFQEOaQodxhMLsw
 
rbohm said:
horseplay has a good point. do try the alignment yourself with the listed tool.
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Thank you guys so much for all the advise on parts! And other things. I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes. Looks like I won't get my Perches for about 10 days (they must be on vacation). Lol


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I would also get the upper arms from John at ORP he uses MOOG arms and goes over them to make sure all is correct. Then welds a tab on the ends to keep the nuts from backing off.
 
Given the opportunity (and budget) OpenTracker Roller Spring Perches are certainly the way to go. With that said, my budget was shot by the time I got to those parts, so I went with the Scott Drake Performance Perches and I am very pleased with the results. I can't compare them to true roller, nor how long they will last relative to the roller perches, but the Drake pieces are a drastic improvement over stock.
 
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