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Shifting issue update

70_Fastback

70_Fastback

Hell Bent for Speed
This past weekend I finally had some time and crawled under the car and replaced the old vacuum modulator with a new one. This also gave me a good reason to finally open up my new tubing bender from Christmas and make a new hard vacuum line that traverses the tranny from the vacuum T down to the modulator. That bender works unbelievably well! I also replaced both flexible hoses at each end of the hard line.

I FINALLY got to drive to drive it last night - since the weather finally cleared. And it shifts perfect - no more 4K, break your neck shifts! Though it shifts a little softer than before (under normal conditions). I will get back under it and adjust the screw in the modulator. I turned it one full revolution prior to installing it. And the directions said not to exceed 4 full revolutions. I think I'll give it 2 more turns and call it good.

While I was under there, I test fit one of the sub-frame connectors too. And crap... some dumbarse, during the rebuild, decided to reroute his fuel line a little different and actually crosses under the frame rail near the rear torque box and runs inside the rail from there back. Well, the damn SF connector needs to reside where the damn line crosses over... Grr...

I will have to redo the fuel line from the rear up to my first union. I HATE redoing stuff... :rp

Guess I get to use my new tubing bender again.... :po



And no, I didn't take any pics... so :stfu
 
Dudette,
You should shoot the PO for doing that. Did they install a 67/68 line? You need to consider installing the 69/70 fuel line which runs from the driver's rear wheel well, along the driver's rocker then towards the front frame rail connecting right before the box? Thats what I installed in Shag knowing that I'll be having SFC's installed. Depending on what brand SFC, you still might need to modify how the line travels along the front frame rail right before it enters the front torque box. Installing Maier SFC's, I had to tweak this area.
 
This was a "J" special line. Every where else it's fine. I just crossed ot over at an inopportune spot. I just need to relocate my cross over to the tank...

And welding in the SFC's are going to be a beyotch at the rear rails with the springs still on the car... :scar

I can access most of the areas well - but it's going to be hard to get the gun in a few spots to do a nice bead.
 
"70_Fastback" said:
This was a "J" special line. Every where else it's fine. I just crossed ot over at an inopportune spot. I just need to relocate my cross over to the tank...

And welding in the SFC's are going to be a beyotch at the rear rails with the springs still on the car... :scar

I can access most of the areas well - but it's going to be hard to get the gun in a few spots to do a nice bead.
Click to expand...

I know you got a smokin deal on those connectors but some tinman connectors would solve the spring issue for sure.
 
And to preface my statement... based on the picture below.. it appears that the SFC on the right is the portion that cradles over the rear frame rail? I am totally guessing on this - largly due to the fact the one end on the left is wider and seems to cradle the front frame rail extension and offsets to one side to align the F & R rails together... is my assumption correct first off?

26_12_04_10_8_47_15_0.JPG
 
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They are straight - the floor pans are contoured, as you are well aware. I did google some images and the tinman ones don't hug the floor pans tight either - but they are a bit countoured, as where mine are 100% straight.
 
"70_Fastback" said:
They are straight - the floor pans are contoured, as you are well aware. I did google some images and the tinman ones don't hug the floor pans tight either - but they are a bit countoured, as where mine are 100% straight.
Click to expand...

The tinmans fit the floor pretty nice.
 
But you're not physically attaching the SFC to the floor pan structure - you're attaching to point "A" & point "B" at each frame rail. So if they hug the pan a little tighter then the straight ones - I see no added benefit other than 3/8" ground clearance...

Now if I was tabbing off and welding TO the floor pans.... that'd be a different story.

correct?
 
Yes, unless you are actually welding to the floor, it's only a clearance issue and how much you will the SFC from a side view.

I assume both your front and rear subframes are straight enough to allow the SFC's to slide over? Red's front frame rails were all distorted from the PO using a bottle jack too many times to change a flat. Trying to pound these rails flat while on the ground was impossible. That is why I had Maier install them. They spend a fair amount of time getting all the frame rails nice and flat to allow the SFCs to slide over.
 
All new rails on the car :)

The back SFC's didn't want to slide over the rear rails to well though - I think they need to be opened up a bit.

And Craig - is my orientation assumption correct? Sounds like you use similar ones on Red?
 
"70_Fastback" said:
They are straight - the floor pans are contoured, as you are well aware. I did google some images and the tinman ones don't hug the floor pans tight either - but they are a bit countoured, as where mine are 100% straight.
Click to expand...

I put a set of the Tinman subframe connectors on the 69 I am putting together. They fit the floor pan very nice. They do not sit flush with the floor pans but at the most are not more than 1 1/2" away.
 
Just sayin'... with your metal expertise, J, I'd build sub-frames from scratch to make it fit snug to the floor pan for a continuous weld connection. That's how I had mine done.
 
"hivewax" said:
Just sayin'... with your metal expertise, J, I'd build sub-frames from scratch to make it fit snug to the floor pan for a continuous weld connection. That's how I had mine done.
Click to expand...

I'm actually starting to like that idea...
 
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