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Shock tower bracing

"1965Mustang" said:
I think my intake is bigger than yours. I think I have a lot less room than you. All I can figure is to weld up something and run a piece of longer metal down the cowel and weld in a crossbrace. I just think it is going to look like a cluster :shee which I do not like
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It might be. I am thinking the same thing. The attachment point on the cowel needs to move farther over to clear the intake and maybe move the point on the shock tower more towards the back a little.

Here's a good site on a custom brace.
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/ExportBrace.htm
 
Thanks. I have looked at that. it looks great, very neat and something I could do. I cannot run a brace where that one is, though. It would have to be moved which I feel in my limited knowledge would take a lot of the structural integrity out. I guess some is better than none, though. I'll shoot you a picture when I am finished.
 
How about this? I still think it would be pretty close.

2011-12-12_-_Engine_Bay.JPG


-Shannon
 
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Is that the one from Maier Racing? I have been really thinking about this. I think what I need to do is get 3 broom stick and lay out a triangle to see what actually will fit, then see if I can close the hood. That way I can, at least, know what will work and get some measurements of those that I think might fit. Just fyi to everyone that told me about Road or Track, Shaun is one of the better guys in the industry and I have met a lot that weren't. T :worhanks for the good contact. :wor
 
Yes , its a Maier brace.
SMP or SMT also make such a brace but the finishing off isn't that good IMO.
 
I have Shaun's bar but modified it to work with my setup. I needed additional space to clear the blower tubing and dizzy. I cut a wedge where I wanted a bend. Make sure you don't cut all the way through. I then had a friend tig weld it back together. Ground it down then repolished the bar. Later on I chromed it so I wouldn't have to polish it as much. Here is a pic. It has a wedge cut on both sides.
43a09787-12be-a5ba.jpg
 
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Very nice car! Braces look good. Very clean looking. Good idea on the front. Did the back brace fit with out mods? My intake looks taller and runners longer than yours but I could be mistaken. How many rwhp are you pulling? Nice set-up. Thanks for the pics. I did not lay out my rods yet to see what would actually work.
 
Just noticed something. How do you like your billet hood hinges? Heard some negative things so i chose not to buy. Any problems or complaints? Pros or cons? Thanks.
 
Thanks for the compliment. I made the export brace so it fits perfectly. :) I am using a trick flow track heat intake. I think the r model intake may be a bit taller. What intake are you using?

I put down 555rwhp but recently added a GZM vacuum pump. I have to go back to the tuner for a touch up on the drivability part of the tune. I think with the new vacuum pump added I will be north of 575 at the wheels.

I can break the tires loose at any time in 1,2 or 3rd gear. Very fun to drive but scary at the same time.
 
The hinges are nice but my only complaint is they don't open far enough. With that said, I would buy them again though.
 
WOW! That's a lot of power. i hope to pull about 320-350 rwhp. Roush dynoed my current engine before I pulled it so I could compare the old vs the new and it was only pulling 156 rwhp. it was bored .40 over and had a decent cam but not much else except the new Holley. As soon as I get mine running it is going to Roush for a chip and a tune. I'm excited about the 300+ rwhp. I cannot imagine doubling that. That was the complaint I keep hearing about the hinges-not opening far enough. My intake is TFS51500002. I built mine more to play with than anything else but am already thinking about the next engine upgrades. I don't guess it ever ends until you cannot scrap up anymore $$$. I know what I have in my little putter engine. i cannot imagine what it takes to pull all those ponies and keep it together. Great looking car, though. you have put a lot of work in ti and it shows. Thanks for the info. I have a lot to0 still learn.
 
Ok-More pictures to better show my problem and see if any of you have a suggestion. The original passenger side brace will fit with no modifications. The driver's side runs straight into the intake as you can see. Ihe bracecan only comeoff the shock tower at about a [/img]35degree angle and can only be attached 13" from the fender on the cowel. I only have 1/2" between the top of the intake and the hood brace. I am quickly running out of ideas. I know this is going round and round I can not find a solution.
 

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Are you talking about the stub of the brace coming off of the shock tower? That can be removed with a spot weld cutter easily enough.
 
I understand that but I have to replace it with something to stop some of the flex the original brace was put there to helped stop. Cutting it off is short work but I cannot figure out how to run a new brace and it be functional and look decent.
 
I originally designed my brace for a different intake. I made the firewall mount wider than stock. I also angled the shock tower plate to the angle of the support bar. When I got the new intake it touched the bar. That is when I installed the spacers. Here are a couple pics.
43a09787-d64d-ae25.jpg

43a09787-d65e-973e.jpg

43a09787-d680-01cb.jpg
43a09787-d68b-4dc3.jpg
 
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Thanks very much for the pics. If you don't mind, here comes the questions. This might work even though I think I have a little less room than you on the drivers side. Did you build your plates out of 1/2" aluminum plate? How many inches wide are the plates on the cowl? How many inches from the fender well to the brace connection from the fender on the cowl on the drivers side? (I only ask this to see how much less of an angle I am going to have than you.) Since I can run the original angle on the passenger side would I be better to keep that side the stock angle or keep both sides symmetrical? One last question does the flex in he heim joints not flex and loose the rigidity they are trying to replace? I really appreciate your time and willingness to help.
 
Why not make (or have made) a longer brace at the firewall so that it clears the driver side intake? Make it the same on the pass side. Get rid of the factory nubs coming off the shock tower! If you're not racing the car, you won't notice any difference and it will still be symmetrical.
 
The firewall brace 13.5" wide where the firewall rods are attached. The full width is about 15". I used 1/4" thick al plate. I have 12.75" from the edge of the brace to the fender apron.

I would make the brace symmetrical if I were you. I really don't notice flex. Especially withe the Monte Carlo bar there. I do wish that I would have added tabs on the shock brackets that I could have use 2 more bars connecting them to the MC bar. Kind of like the TCP kit.
 
Where is a good supply for the joints, rods, and tabs? I am sure they have to take a lot of torque. I like the idea about the tads. I looked at the TCP unit earlier and know exactly what you are talking about but I was concerned about flex with all the joints and connections. Glad to hear that is not a problem. I think the angle is only going to be about 25 degrees where it connects to the cowl. Do you think that will provide enough support? Thanks for the info.
 
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